When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After 40+ days of lowering my 2013 Z on stock bolts, the ride height is no different than from where I started. At first, it rode high after lowering. Now that I've done about 100+ miles and some hard braking and acceleration, it is almost exactly where I began 40 days ago. Yes, I turned all 4 corners counter clockwise
Any ideas why it hasn't lowered beyond what I started out with?
The second question I have is, West Coast Corvettes website shows two sets of lowering bolts for the C6. SKU: 33131000 at $49.95
These are their all black bolts and the advertising states:
"Easily lower your C6/Z06 Corvette up to 2 1/2" with these specially designed lowering bolts."
Just today, I went to their website and they have new lowering bolts that are made for both a C6 and C7. SKU: 23130000
This advertising states:
aFe Control is proud to release the PFADT Series, Lowering Kit for ALL 2005 & Up Corvette C6 & C7. This lowering kit is designed to lower your C6/C7 up to 1.25” enhancing the sleek, body lines, and giving it a more aggressive, stylish look.
Now, looking at both bolts, the all black ones have a thicker foot pad. The stainless steel (PFADT) bolts have what appears to be a thinner foot pad.
How is it that the older style for $44.95 with a ticker foot pad is advertised to lower a C6 2.5", yet the newest style for $199 claims only 1.25"?
And why are they making are these bolts so damn long when they are meant for LOWERING a Corvette? Wouldn't it be easiest to just make a bolt long enough that, when screwed in from underneath the leaf spring that when it comes out the top of the leaf, there is just 1/2" of bolt, and not 1" or more excess? Would make screwing it in from underneath without having to remove the lower control arms much easier. Owners could raise their leaf, cut their stock bolts, and screw these in. The leaf is not THAT thick, and so, they could make these in 2 or 3 different sizes.
Stock length lowering bolts with maximum flexibility, requires removal of lower control arms.
1/2" shorter than stock
1" shorter than stock (Can be screwed in from under the leaf without removal of lower control arm).
I am just a simple guy, but why is this so difficult to figure out?
Don't have any answers for your questions, but didn't I see Justin abbott of zip talk about lowering bolts recently? See if his name turns up a thread.
I recall the cheaper style lowering bolts had a flat face where it would meet the A-arm, they were a poly urethane and would fail in a short time.
Another type was produced with a Delrin face those would last and did so without squeaking.
I have read a lot of disappointing stories with after market bolts, from a hard ride, to wearing out to obnoxious squeaking. I've read enough where I'm not changing, oh, apparently you can't by OEM bolts or you have to buy something that approaches $1000.00 to get the bolts. I forget the facts but was another reason for me to leave well enough alone...
My stock bolts are deformed, especially on the passenger side, so I tried ordering replacements from Chevrolet. No joy, you have the buy the entire damn spring....What a load! Who does that? Apparently Chevrolet. About a 1000 miles after warranty is up too. Figures.
I bought some similar to what you describe up above, hope they last for a while at least...Couldn't see my way to paying $200.00 for a set of 4 bolts.
After 40+ days of lowering my 2013 Z on stock bolts, the ride height is no different than from where I started. At first, it rode high after lowering. Now that I've done about 100+ miles and some hard braking and acceleration, it is almost exactly where I began 40 days ago. Yes, I turned all 4 corners counter clockwise
Any ideas why it hasn't lowered beyond what I started out with?
Interested in hearing if there is a particular reason why his vette is not dropping before I do the same.....magnetic ride?
I have read around quite a bit on dropping on stock bolts and the magnetic ride and many people having trouble getting it drop who have the magnetic ride. Also, some claim that dropping it on stock bolts can damage or reduce effectiveness of the magnetic ride. Know one seems to have a definitive answer.
The ones who want the "look" seem to not care about the magnetic ride as much as dropping it. Some with magnetic ride have cut a rib out and this worked, and claim magnetic ride still works. I question the truth of their statements however as I can flip to either one and cant really tell unless tracking it. The more mechanical people seem to think dropping it on stock bolts with magnetic ride is more involved than everyone thinks and there is risk of damaging the mag ride and messing up the delicate balance of it and the alignment and at a bare minimum reducing its effectiveness.......but no conclusive proof that I have read.
Last edited by Cor430vette; 05-01-2015 at 07:28 AM.
And why are they making are these bolts so damn long when they are meant for LOWERING a Corvette? Wouldn't it be easiest to just make a bolt long enough that, when screwed in from underneath the leaf spring that when it comes out the top of the leaf, there is just 1/2" of bolt, and not 1" or more excess? Would make screwing it in from underneath without having to remove the lower control arms much easier. Owners could raise their leaf, cut their stock bolts, and screw these in. The leaf is not THAT thick, and so, they could make these in 2 or 3 different sizes.
Stock length lowering bolts with maximum flexibility, requires removal of lower control arms.
1/2" shorter than stock
1" shorter than stock (Can be screwed in from under the leaf without removal of lower control arm).
I am just a simple guy, but why is this so difficult to figure out?
The longer the bolt is, the lower the car gets.
If you tightened the nut until the length ended up being as short as the stock bolt you will not get any lowering.
With a coilspring you want a shorter spring, but with these leafsprings you need to think opposite and thereby a LONGER bolt
The longer the bolt is, the lower the car gets.
If you tightened the nut until the length ended up being as short as the stock bolt you will not get any lowering.
With a coilspring you want a shorter spring, but with these leafsprings you need to think opposite and thereby a LONGER bolt
Isn't this irrelevant when the bolt is screwed up (counter-clockwise) into the leaf spring anyways, and the only width that is raising the leaf spring off the control arm is technically the lowering bolt bushing?
Basically, the lowest anyone could get, is removing the bolt completely. But depending on the width of the flat bushing, doesn't that dictate how low it would go? The taller the bushing, the higher the ride.
You didn't mention how far you turned the adjusting bolts. Did you take an accurate measurement of the threads above the nut before and after? I have an idea you didn't make enough turns.....
The longer the bolt is, the lower the car gets.
If you tightened the nut until the length ended up being as short as the stock bolt you will not get any lowering.
With a coilspring you want a shorter spring, but with these leafsprings you need to think opposite and thereby a LONGER bolt
My .02 cents is I am not getting your logic like the OP....
I think your thinking through it like a OEM bolt, the higher up it goes the lower your car goes. However, my understanding is that the bolt is not really what creates the lowering, it is the bushing being moved higher by raising the oem bolt that creates the lowering. So by essentially raising the bushing by turning the bolt counterclockwise your lower control arm will come up closer to the leaf when the weight of the vehicle is on the suspension. So you have now allowed the car to settle downward onto the raised bolt/ lowered bushing. However, when the OEM bolt bottoms out and you want your car even lower many people cut the ribs of the bushing which then you would raise the bolt again by turning counterclockwise. What you end up with is a tone of wasted length above so the bushing is the problem not the length of the bolt....The wasted length of the bolt is ueseless unless you want to raise the car.??? ...the aftermarket bolts should be shorter for ease of install as the bushing is already essentially non existent I agree with OP....
Last edited by Cor430vette; 05-10-2015 at 02:16 PM.
As you shorten the bolt height from the A arm to the spring, the lower you go.
Yep but the bolt simply raises the bushing. The bushing is the key as you turn the bolt counter clockwise (shortening the bolt) you are essentially raising the bushing and your lower control arm will come up closer to the leaf spring when the weight of the vehicle is on the suspension and the car then drops...this is what the OP is saying. So why make aftermarket bolts the same length as the stock bolts when you will not use the wasted threads above, and it makes installation harder ...
Last edited by Cor430vette; 05-10-2015 at 02:18 PM.
Yep but the bolt simply raises the bushing. The bushing is the key as you turn the bolt counter clockwise (shortening the bolt) you are essentially raising the bushing and your lower control arm will come up closer to the leaf spring when the weight of the vehicle is on the suspension and the car then drops...this is what the OP is saying. So why make aftermarket bolts the same length as the stock bolts when you will not use the wasted threads above, and it makes installation harder ...
Correct. If the leaf spring is say 1/2" thick, the aftermarket bolts only need to be 1/2" thick plus whatever is safest for a protruding bolt to turn. So, in a sense, 3/4" lowering bolt may be perfect. A 1" lowering bolt may be useless as the other 1/2" rising up from the leaf spring does absolutely nothing.
The cushion is what sets the ride heigh.
If the lowering bolt was completely removed and the ONLY item left remaining was a 1/2" bushing, the car will still settle as low as it possible could with a 1/2" bushing.
Now, cut that bushing in half, and the car will lower even further.
I don't believe lowering a Vette has anything to do with the size of the bolt. Only the remaining cushion between the spring and lower control arm.
Corvettes look "TOUGH" lowered absolutely, but mine will stay where its at thanks I don't know how these lowered ones get around town without the front being banged up badly. But they do look COOL, I admit that
NSF
Mine had lowering bolts when I purchased it. They started squeeking/clicking within a few months of me owning it. I was able to get my hands on some stock bolts luckily and with them lowered all the way it sits plenty low for me. If you want lower I'd cut the stock bolts, the squeeking/clicking was REALLY annoying.
Are you SURE you have to bolts lowered all the way, the above picture is how mine looks with the stock bolts lowered all the way. One of the sets of bolts I got were from a spare spring a local guy had, I removed them from his spring and they were damn near seized in there. I had to put the spring in a bench vice and use a cheater bar to get them out... Maybe it's possible your bolts are just VERY difficult to move and you just think they're lowered all the way.
I also lowered my vette yesterday on stock bolts. Hardly any noticeable difference. Maybe 1/2" lower from stock if I'm lucky. Went as low as they would go in the back without any cutting. Thinking about aftermarket lowering bolts but after all the negative reviews, I think I will stick with stock.
04-25-2015, 12:55 PM
C6 Lowering Bolts from West Coast Corvette
I don't know how these lowered ones get around town without the front being banged up badly. But they do look COOL, I admit that 
