Yet another C6 fuel pump removal story
#41
Melting Slicks
#42
#43
Melting Slicks
its an 09, about 58-59k miles
#44
Le Mans Master
What a great thread.
Sorry the OP seems to be really struggling with this.
Looking at a Factory Service Manual it says to remove mufflers, wheels and liner and drive train support assembly.
There are other tips in the manual too.
On the driveway with jackstands is stoic.
This project really seems to be a pain for a DIYer.
Anyway here's a good luck wish so the rest of the project goes smoothly for the OP.
Sorry the OP seems to be really struggling with this.
Looking at a Factory Service Manual it says to remove mufflers, wheels and liner and drive train support assembly.
There are other tips in the manual too.
On the driveway with jackstands is stoic.
This project really seems to be a pain for a DIYer.
Anyway here's a good luck wish so the rest of the project goes smoothly for the OP.
#45
What a great thread.
Sorry the OP seems to be really struggling with this.
Looking at a Factory Service Manual it says to remove mufflers, wheels and liner and drive train support assembly.
There are other tips in the manual too.
On the driveway with jackstands is stoic.
This project really seems to be a pain for a DIYer.
Anyway here's a good luck wish so the rest of the project goes smoothly for the OP.
Sorry the OP seems to be really struggling with this.
Looking at a Factory Service Manual it says to remove mufflers, wheels and liner and drive train support assembly.
There are other tips in the manual too.
On the driveway with jackstands is stoic.
This project really seems to be a pain for a DIYer.
Anyway here's a good luck wish so the rest of the project goes smoothly for the OP.
#46
#47
Melting Slicks
I wish lol...on my back under my car on jack stands...going to give it another shot to see if I can get a better position...I was barely able to angle myself and grab the crossover tube very well...practically doing a sit-up the entire time lol
#49
#50
07' Z06 23k miles.
No symptoms. I was in the middle of installing the intermediate Racetronix harness (IPH-008) because I installed a Kenne Bell BAP and had to drop the drivers tank to install it. That's when things went south and started to break. I think this tool might help the install go smoother vice manhandling it.
No symptoms. I was in the middle of installing the intermediate Racetronix harness (IPH-008) because I installed a Kenne Bell BAP and had to drop the drivers tank to install it. That's when things went south and started to break. I think this tool might help the install go smoother vice manhandling it.
#51
First reality-check of the tool on the vehicle.
So the "tool", at this time, is composed of a 3 foot long piece of 12mm dia threaded rod, and two aluminum clamps about 3" square each and 1/2 thick.
The 3 feet of threaded rod is way longer than needed, I just haven't cut it to size yet because the design is still in progress. But I figured it would be okay to leave it that length for this test, because if it fits, then anything shorter certainly will.
The vehicle was setup as follows:
On jackstands, maybe 18" at most clearance to the rear subframe.
Drivers fuel tank fully installed
Passenger fuel tank sitting on ground under its cavity ready to be pushed up.
Tranny, exhaust, subframe, etc.. fully installed
Only other parts out are wheels, well liners, an evap line..etc..
First I slid the crossover tube into place through the passenger tank cavity/xover tube hole.
Then I pushed each clamp into place on the ends of the crossover tube.
So far so good..plenty of room to do that no problem.
Then I tried to get that 3 feet of rod up above the tranny and into place below the crossover tube, along the crossover tube length.
Took a couple minutes but eventually got it up there..kinda surprised. Anything shorter would be way easier.
Then I tried to get my 19mm combo wrench up on the drivers side like I was going to tighten the clamp. No prob...TONS of room for that. Could probably fit a 1/2" ratchet with an extension up there actually.
So far this looks good. The tool is "real" as I put it up there with the exception that I'd like to modify it so that the threaded rod stays stationary axially and just pulls/pushes the far clamp. Right now the rod will move lengthwise as you tighten/loosen its drive nut..which is not a good thing up there since it has nowhere to go.
So the "tool", at this time, is composed of a 3 foot long piece of 12mm dia threaded rod, and two aluminum clamps about 3" square each and 1/2 thick.
The 3 feet of threaded rod is way longer than needed, I just haven't cut it to size yet because the design is still in progress. But I figured it would be okay to leave it that length for this test, because if it fits, then anything shorter certainly will.
The vehicle was setup as follows:
On jackstands, maybe 18" at most clearance to the rear subframe.
Drivers fuel tank fully installed
Passenger fuel tank sitting on ground under its cavity ready to be pushed up.
Tranny, exhaust, subframe, etc.. fully installed
Only other parts out are wheels, well liners, an evap line..etc..
First I slid the crossover tube into place through the passenger tank cavity/xover tube hole.
Then I pushed each clamp into place on the ends of the crossover tube.
So far so good..plenty of room to do that no problem.
Then I tried to get that 3 feet of rod up above the tranny and into place below the crossover tube, along the crossover tube length.
Took a couple minutes but eventually got it up there..kinda surprised. Anything shorter would be way easier.
Then I tried to get my 19mm combo wrench up on the drivers side like I was going to tighten the clamp. No prob...TONS of room for that. Could probably fit a 1/2" ratchet with an extension up there actually.
So far this looks good. The tool is "real" as I put it up there with the exception that I'd like to modify it so that the threaded rod stays stationary axially and just pulls/pushes the far clamp. Right now the rod will move lengthwise as you tighten/loosen its drive nut..which is not a good thing up there since it has nowhere to go.
Last edited by PatientZero; 06-26-2015 at 11:34 PM.
#52
Burning Brakes
subscribed.
Both of my fuel senders need replacing and while I have the tanks out, I mine as well upgrade the fuel pump.
been keeping it on the back burner and helping techron keep its stock up because I keep hearing what a pain in the a$$ it is and I dont feel like paying someone 2 grand to do it for me.
This tool looks promising.
Both of my fuel senders need replacing and while I have the tanks out, I mine as well upgrade the fuel pump.
been keeping it on the back burner and helping techron keep its stock up because I keep hearing what a pain in the a$$ it is and I dont feel like paying someone 2 grand to do it for me.
This tool looks promising.
#53
subscribed.
Both of my fuel senders need replacing and while I have the tanks out, I mine as well upgrade the fuel pump.
been keeping it on the back burner and helping techron keep its stock up because I keep hearing what a pain in the a$$ it is and I dont feel like paying someone 2 grand to do it for me.
This tool looks promising.
Both of my fuel senders need replacing and while I have the tanks out, I mine as well upgrade the fuel pump.
been keeping it on the back burner and helping techron keep its stock up because I keep hearing what a pain in the a$$ it is and I dont feel like paying someone 2 grand to do it for me.
This tool looks promising.
Do you have a manual or auto? year and model?
#54
Burning Brakes
#57
Modified what I call the "far" clamp to have threads so it moves along the rod as the rod is turned. The other side of the rod, in the "near" clamp, will be captured in that clamp axially by two spacers/nuts that will be fixed to the rod. So this arrangement will not require the rod to move axially, only the "far" clamp.
#58
Looks really good, nice work.
I got my passenger tank out tonight. Those lines broke on me as well albeit not nearly as bad as the drivers side.
This tool looks like it'd do a great job of compressing the crossover tube which is half the battle. As far as disconnecting the internal plastic lines, that's another story and something I don't believe I could have avoided breaking no matter how patient I was. Once I got them apart there was a white crusty residue all built up around the o rings and that's why they were stuck together.
I got my passenger tank out tonight. Those lines broke on me as well albeit not nearly as bad as the drivers side.
This tool looks like it'd do a great job of compressing the crossover tube which is half the battle. As far as disconnecting the internal plastic lines, that's another story and something I don't believe I could have avoided breaking no matter how patient I was. Once I got them apart there was a white crusty residue all built up around the o rings and that's why they were stuck together.
#59
Btw, you may know, since I have the passenger tank out is there anything I should think about replacing? I looked at the fuel level float arm and the prongs and circuit board looked to be in really good condition. Pretty sure that's what typically fails in the passenger side. Not sure if anything else needs attention.
#60
Btw, you may know, since I have the passenger tank out is there anything I should think about replacing? I looked at the fuel level float arm and the prongs and circuit board looked to be in really good condition. Pretty sure that's what typically fails in the passenger side. Not sure if anything else needs attention.
Are you taking the drivers pump out? Get ready for fun...the basket will not come out without a fight or a solid 30m to an hour trying to compress/pry it out while gas fumes slowly poison you..
BTW best deals on the internal lines are on ebay, that I have found.