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Check Light on after Gas Tank Fill.

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Old 06-06-2015, 08:49 AM
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Thmprr
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Default Check Light on after Gas Tank Fill.

It seems like I did a dumb thing by overfilling the gas tank to the brim. After which I noticed the check engine light was always on. I took it to a friend who has a OBDII reader who said it appeared to be something to do with the evaporative solenoid. He cleared the code, but now it's back.
Because we live in New Zealand, there are no Chevrolet dealers here, only Holden, so I am hesitant to have them messing around with it.
This happened 4 weeks ago, now. Is there anything that can be done to cure this? I will get the guy to read it again to get the exact code, but I wondered if there is anything obvious that can be done.
The gas cap appears to be sealing ok, BTW.
Old 06-06-2015, 10:30 AM
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timd38
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It may only need a fuel cap. Cheap item to start with.
Old 06-06-2015, 05:05 PM
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zali0104
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If the code says the word circuit you have a connection problem.
Evap monitor will not run when fuel tank is filled. Think it starts around three quarters so when exactly did light come on?
Cannot do much without code.......
The holden gas cap is the same for any gm the same years
Old 06-07-2015, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by zali0104
If the code says the word circuit you have a connection problem.
Evap monitor will not run when fuel tank is filled. Think it starts around three quarters so when exactly did light come on?
Cannot do much without code.......
The holden gas cap is the same for any gm the same years
The Code reader comes up with
P0449 EVAP VENT SOLENOID VALVE CONT. CIR
Does this mean I have a continuity problem or has the solenoid valve failed? One thing I'll do is put it on my 4 post lift and check the plug, first.
I've just checked the solenoid plug and it's ok. Did not check for electrical current, though.

Last edited by Thmprr; 06-07-2015 at 08:33 PM.
Old 06-07-2015, 07:45 PM
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Check vent solenoid resistance, zero means part is bad. Check the wires an inch behind the connector, pull on the wires individually to check if broken inside insulation. Also check where harness goes into body for corrosion. That should cover it. Good luck.
Old 06-08-2015, 03:00 PM
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SUB VETTE
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Start with the gas cap before doing anything more extensive.
Old 06-08-2015, 03:18 PM
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zali0104
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Originally Posted by SUB VETTE
Start with the gas cap before doing anything more extensive.
Gas cap does not set a circuit code.
Old 08-06-2015, 05:53 AM
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Thmprr
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I always try to provide the solution. In our case, the P0449 code would not go away, I had to replace the Evap Vent Solenoid Valve to remove the CEL. To do this, I had to import it from the USA, along with the adapter wire harness. The solenoid can be replaced without removing the exhaust, but it's difficult. The hardest part is removing the purge hose. The hose clamp needs unique compact pliers, to release it.
Once the hose was off, it was fairly easy to replace. Once installed, the code was cleared and all's OK.
Thinking back, what probably happened was the gas tank overfill, caused the canister to fill, then the solenoid failed trying to deal with it.
I won't fill past the first gas nozzle click again, needless to say.

Last edited by Thmprr; 08-06-2015 at 05:55 AM.
Old 08-06-2015, 06:54 PM
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Joe_G
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Thanks for posting the solution! So many folks don't finish a thread.

Your warning is well needed. I like to fill up but I'm not going to go past first click anymore.
Old 08-08-2015, 02:35 PM
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test procedure P0449

1. Command the evaporative vent solenoid on/off, listen for click at the vent solenoid.

2. Check for 13-14 volts to the evaporative vent solenoid on the Red/White wire from the MRRTD fuse in the Underhood Bussed Electrical Center (UBEC) with the engine running.

3. Test the evaporative solenoid resistance, solenoid disconnected. Should have 20-30 ohms.

4. If no click from the evaporative vent solenoid when commanded on with a scan tool, but the solenoid checks OK and the power feed is OK, then test the evaporative vent solenoid control wire, White.

5. Check the White wire from the PCM, pin 61 of the black Electronic Control Module (ECM) connector to C184, then to C420.

the Canister Vent (CV) Solenoid is by far the most common solution to that code.



Last edited by rpmextra; 08-08-2015 at 02:37 PM.
Old 09-09-2015, 12:24 PM
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Red89gt
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So I just won the unlucky lottery of a check engine light and code P0449 & P0455 and was wondering what the deciding factor is on the harness that goes with the vent valve? I see people buy it and say they don't need it and others that buy it and say nothing about installing it. Is there a model year cut off the jumper harness is not needed?
Going to get a valve from napa today and change it out.
Old 09-09-2015, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Red89gt
So I just won the unlucky lottery of a check engine light and code P0449 & P0455 and was wondering what the deciding factor is on the harness that goes with the vent valve? I see people buy it and say they don't need it and others that buy it and say nothing about installing it. Is there a model year cut off the jumper harness is not needed?
Going to get a valve from napa today and change it out.
the deciding factor? you'd best diagnose the problem first before just throwing parts at it. for your P0449 code i posted the test just a few replies above.
for the p0455 (probably gas cap though) its as follows

1. Loosen the gas cap. Install a scan tool.

2. With the ignition on, check for about 1.5 volts from the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor (FTPS).

3. Remove the vacuum hose to the rear of the vehicle and electrical connector from the Purge solenoid.

4. Start the engine, verify there is no vacuum passing through the solenoid.

5. Attach a new, clean vacuum hose to the vent solenoid.

6. When the vent solenoid is commanded on with a scan tool, pull 1-2 inches of vacuum against the solenoid.

7. If the solenoid leaks, replace it.
Old 09-09-2015, 09:24 PM
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Well went to get parts from napa and the valve (CRB 2282672) was $22 and the jumper was $35. Opened the box for the valve and it had a jumper harness on it. Guy at counter said go ahead and take it cuz not sure how it got in there or where it came from. It was needed in order to mate factory harness to the valve Assy on my 2010 grand sport. Dealer also said a jumper was needed per the catalog for my car so GM or napa part wouldn't have mattered. Napa was verbatim to OEM on the casing with only exception the wire harness socket.

Install was a pita due to auto car and not much room for my meat hooks to get in there to get clamp off. Got it done regardless after some contortionist moves. Hooked battery up and went for test drive, knock on wood, MIL light is out, problem solved.

Last edited by Red89gt; 09-10-2015 at 12:47 PM.
Old 09-15-2015, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Red89gt
Well went to get parts from napa and the valve (CRB 2282672) was $22 and the jumper was $35. Opened the box for the valve and it had a jumper harness on it. Guy at counter said go ahead and take it cuz not sure how it got in there or where it came from. It was needed in order to mate factory harness to the valve Assy on my 2010 grand sport. Dealer also said a jumper was needed per the catalog for my car so GM or napa part wouldn't have mattered. Napa was verbatim to OEM on the casing with only exception the wire harness socket.

Install was a pita due to auto car and not much room for my meat hooks to get in there to get clamp off. Got it done regardless after some contortionist moves. Hooked battery up and went for test drive, knock on wood, MIL light is out, problem solved.
I guess your hands are as big as mine LOL. Mine's an auto as well. On the positive side, did not have to remover the RH exhaust. Hardest part was moving the hose clip and get the hose off.
Old 09-15-2015, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Thmprr
I guess your hands are as big as mine LOL. Mine's an auto as well. On the positive side, did not have to remover the RH exhaust. Hardest part was moving the hose clip and get the hose off.
Wish I was a little smarter, saw that another member put a hose clamp on in place of the spring clamp. That way if it ever went bad again just a socket on an extension to free up the vent line. I didn't have to take off the exhaust but I did have to loosen it so I could tilt it out of the way.
Old 09-15-2015, 02:14 PM
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CMY SIX
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Originally Posted by zali0104
Gas cap does not set a circuit code.
I'm sorry if the cap is loose the check engine light WILL come on, if the cap is bad the light WILL come on, the light WILL not light WITHOUT an event code. it a computer thing. {05-06 GM recall for the cap} you could walk right in the dealer and hand them a cap and they would give you a new one.
Old 09-21-2015, 02:26 PM
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Default Overfilling the tank

Originally Posted by Joe_G
Thanks for posting the solution! So many folks don't finish a thread.

Your warning is well needed. I like to fill up but I'm not going to go past first click anymore.
Gentlemen, I realize this is an older thread but engineers design the gas tanks to allow for expansion. Many people "think" that forcing fuel into the tank after the first click will give them more miles on the tank. Just the opposite...you are throwing your money away especially if it is a hot day. Gas will often be vented and lost. Also, it is a good idea to fill the tank on the slowest setting especially on a hot day. The best time to fill your car is when the temp is at its lowest. Just FYI. HRP
Old 09-21-2015, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by CMY SIX
I'm sorry if the cap is loose the check engine light WILL come on, if the cap is bad the light WILL come on, the light WILL not light WITHOUT an event code. it a computer thing. {05-06 GM recall for the cap} you could walk right in the dealer and hand them a cap and they would give you a new one.
Pretty sure my 05 says "Check Gas Cap" in the DIC if I leave it off, it doesn't set a CEL.
Old 09-23-2015, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
Pretty sure my 05 says "Check Gas Cap" in the DIC if I leave it off, it doesn't set a CEL.
my 06 was bad got a CEL till I replaced the cap.

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