'07 LS2 6-speed linkage lockup
07-05-2015, 10:32 AM
#1
Heel & Toe
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'07 LS2 6-speed linkage lockup
Wife was driving with a friend and when stopped at an intersection, car locked up in neutral. Anybody have experience with this problem?
07-05-2015, 01:33 PM
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07-05-2015, 08:08 PM
#6
Can you shift through the gears with the motor off?
What color is the clutch fluid, and is the clutch fluid to the top fill line in the tank?
What color is the clutch fluid, and is the clutch fluid to the top fill line in the tank?
07-06-2015, 12:15 PM
#7
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Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
07-06-2015, 12:18 PM
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NCM Sinkhole Donor
Hi Dano. I think you hit the nail on the head. It shifts just fine with engine off. And, clutch master cylinder fluid is just above the low line ... prolly an inch from top fill line. I will fill it up and see if that solves the problem.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
May want to do this at the same time!
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
07-06-2015, 06:35 PM
#9
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You sound very knowledgeable. Any more suggestions?
07-07-2015, 10:32 PM
#10
Note, 4th gear is the input and output shaft locked together as one unit, and the secondary shaft with gears out of play.
If the car starts to walk forward, then yank the trans out of 4th gear and back into neutral!!!
If the car will start with the clutch held down,car not walking forward, lower the E brake handle and can the car be pushed rearward with the clutch in/motor running, or does it feel like the clutch is still engage a touch????
With the trans shifting smooth and tight with the motor off, would dare to guess that the clutch is not fully disengaging instead.
If the throw out bearing is going south, should be able to hear is screaming. But could be worse with a throw out being sleeve that has melted, or one of the clutch fingers snapped off and biding up the clutch from fully disengaging instead. Or could just be as simple as the master cylinder worn out (it is plastic walled, and pitch black clutch dust contaminated fluid will wear it out quickly), and not pressing the slave cylinder all the way out to disengage the clutch instead.
Note, if the slave cylinder went south, there would be a puddle of clutch fluid under the car.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-cylinder.html
P.S, with the car started, the clutch all the way in, try all the gears to see if you can get the trans at least into one of them. Each gear has it own sync, and there is not way that they all went south at the same time.
07-08-2015, 04:16 PM
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Out in the street with plenty of room in the car, put the car into 4th gear, pull the e brake on hard, press the clutch pedal all the way down ,and hit the starter button.
Note, 4th gear is the input and output shaft locked together as one unit, and the secondary shaft with gears out of play.
If the car starts to walk forward, then yank the trans out of 4th gear and back into neutral!!!
If the car will start with the clutch held down,car not walking forward, lower the E brake handle and can the car be pushed rearward with the clutch in/motor running, or does it feel like the clutch is still engage a touch????
With the trans shifting smooth and tight with the motor off, would dare to guess that the clutch is not fully disengaging instead.
If the throw out bearing is going south, should be able to hear is screaming. But could be worse with a throw out being sleeve that has melted, or one of the clutch fingers snapped off and biding up the clutch from fully disengaging instead. Or could just be as simple as the master cylinder worn out (it is plastic walled, and pitch black clutch dust contaminated fluid will wear it out quickly), and not pressing the slave cylinder all the way out to disengage the clutch instead.
Note, if the slave cylinder went south, there would be a puddle of clutch fluid under the car.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-cylinder.html
P.S, with the car started, the clutch all the way in, try all the gears to see if you can get the trans at least into one of them. Each gear has it own sync, and there is not way that they all went south at the same time.
Note, 4th gear is the input and output shaft locked together as one unit, and the secondary shaft with gears out of play.
If the car starts to walk forward, then yank the trans out of 4th gear and back into neutral!!!
If the car will start with the clutch held down,car not walking forward, lower the E brake handle and can the car be pushed rearward with the clutch in/motor running, or does it feel like the clutch is still engage a touch????
With the trans shifting smooth and tight with the motor off, would dare to guess that the clutch is not fully disengaging instead.
If the throw out bearing is going south, should be able to hear is screaming. But could be worse with a throw out being sleeve that has melted, or one of the clutch fingers snapped off and biding up the clutch from fully disengaging instead. Or could just be as simple as the master cylinder worn out (it is plastic walled, and pitch black clutch dust contaminated fluid will wear it out quickly), and not pressing the slave cylinder all the way out to disengage the clutch instead.
Note, if the slave cylinder went south, there would be a puddle of clutch fluid under the car.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-cylinder.html
P.S, with the car started, the clutch all the way in, try all the gears to see if you can get the trans at least into one of them. Each gear has it own sync, and there is not way that they all went south at the same time.
Car starts in 2nd just fine - but car tries to move when the engine is fired up. Same think in 4th. Same thing in reverse. Those are the gears I tried ... but because the car tries to move, I figure I do have a clutch issue of some sort. Not sure what.
Thanks again for all your help. Car is now going to the shop for some TLC.
07-08-2015, 10:07 PM
#13
JIMC0923, would start with pulling the clutch master cylinder, pull it apart and take a good look at the plunger and the cylinder wall conditions (don't need to drop the drive line to get to it).
If the cylinder plastic walls are trashed, as well as the plunger, then the problem is found and should be an easy fix with a new master cylinder (don't bother trying to rebuild it, since there is not way of cleaning up the plastic cylinder walls).
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-pressure.html
If the clutch master cylinder checks out fine, then it time to drop the drive line to go after the clutch.
If the cylinder plastic walls are trashed, as well as the plunger, then the problem is found and should be an easy fix with a new master cylinder (don't bother trying to rebuild it, since there is not way of cleaning up the plastic cylinder walls).
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-pressure.html
If the clutch master cylinder checks out fine, then it time to drop the drive line to go after the clutch.
Last edited by Dano523; 07-08-2015 at 10:12 PM.
07-08-2015, 10:57 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
Your clutch pedal pressure feels normal? I would have thought if your clutch master cylinder was that bad your clutch pedal would not come back at a normal rate.
Hopefully it is just clutch master cylinder.
Good Luck!
DJ
Hopefully it is just clutch master cylinder.
Good Luck!
DJ
07-08-2015, 11:33 PM
#15
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St. Jude Donor '15
These are classic symptoms of the clutch not disengaging fully.
07-09-2015, 12:15 AM
#16
Melting Slicks
It's either the master or the slave IMO. On mine it was the slave. Exact same symptoms. Mine went from tough to get into gear on cold mornings to eventually it was impossible to get it into gear at all with the engine running. Slave was done.
These are classic symptoms of the clutch not disengaging fully.
These are classic symptoms of the clutch not disengaging fully.
DJ
07-09-2015, 08:40 AM
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St. Jude Donor '15
Slightly lighter but not very noticeable if I remember correctly. It's been a few years since it happened
For whatever reason your clutch isn't disengaging.. that much I am sure of given the symptoms. Either way, to get to the slave or anything else clutch related (except master) the torque tube/transmission/rear cradle have to come out
For whatever reason your clutch isn't disengaging.. that much I am sure of given the symptoms. Either way, to get to the slave or anything else clutch related (except master) the torque tube/transmission/rear cradle have to come out
07-09-2015, 11:01 AM
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St. Jude Donor '15
07-10-2015, 09:48 AM
#20
Melting Slicks
Slightly lighter but not very noticeable if I remember correctly. It's been a few years since it happened
For whatever reason your clutch isn't disengaging.. that much I am sure of given the symptoms. Either way, to get to the slave or anything else clutch related (except master) the torque tube/transmission/rear cradle have to come out
For whatever reason your clutch isn't disengaging.. that much I am sure of given the symptoms. Either way, to get to the slave or anything else clutch related (except master) the torque tube/transmission/rear cradle have to come out
DJ