New clutch and wtf
#21
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Stock exhaust system has to be unbolted from the cats back, And will bank that your aftermarket system came off faster then it would normally had taken them to pull the factory exhaust system with cats (headers and all).
So total BS on taking 6 hours to pull the headers as added shop time, unless the header collectors where welded to the X pipe instead (had to grind the welds free to begin with, then will have to re-weld them back in place).
So total BS on taking 6 hours to pull the headers as added shop time, unless the header collectors where welded to the X pipe instead (had to grind the welds free to begin with, then will have to re-weld them back in place).
Last edited by garye; 08-27-2015 at 08:36 PM.
#22
In the end, what matter most is that your car is repaired properly and you're back on the road to enjoy it.
#24
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St. Jude Donor '15
Yes, pulling most of the drivetrain is normal. Clutch is in the front.. transmission is in the back. Torque tube is in between the two.. and all of it has to come out to get to the clutch.
I've changed the clutch on mine on a concrete patio on jack stands in a day.. no lift. They should be able to do it in one day no problem, even with headers. If they had said an extra 1-2 hours for headers I would say that's reasonable.. most shops charge an extra $100 or so to deal with aftermarket headers. They have to be removed. With stock headers you can just unbolt the cats from the exhaust manifolds and that's all it is.. they just come right off. With aftermarket headers they have to remove them totally to get them out of the way
#25
That's BS unless they are totally incompetent.. which is possible.
Yes, pulling most of the drivetrain is normal. Clutch is in the front.. transmission is in the back. Torque tube is in between the two.. and all of it has to come out to get to the clutch.
I've changed the clutch on mine on a concrete patio on jack stands in a day.. no lift. They should be able to do it in one day no problem, even with headers. If they had said an extra 1-2 hours for headers I would say that's reasonable.. most shops charge an extra $100 or so to deal with aftermarket headers. They have to be removed. With stock headers you can just unbolt the cats from the exhaust manifolds and that's all it is.. they just come right off. With aftermarket headers they have to remove them totally to get them out of the way
Yes, pulling most of the drivetrain is normal. Clutch is in the front.. transmission is in the back. Torque tube is in between the two.. and all of it has to come out to get to the clutch.
I've changed the clutch on mine on a concrete patio on jack stands in a day.. no lift. They should be able to do it in one day no problem, even with headers. If they had said an extra 1-2 hours for headers I would say that's reasonable.. most shops charge an extra $100 or so to deal with aftermarket headers. They have to be removed. With stock headers you can just unbolt the cats from the exhaust manifolds and that's all it is.. they just come right off. With aftermarket headers they have to remove them totally to get them out of the way
#26
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Did you authorize the $900 additional? Typically they call to get your permission on the extra charges to do the work. If you didn't have them look at the car before quoting or didn't disclose the headers upfront this isn't 100% their fault. If they called to get permission for extra work and you agreed to it but are now feeling remorse that's just something you probably will have to suck up and learn from.
In the end, what matter most is that your car is repaired properly and you're back on the road to enjoy it.
In the end, what matter most is that your car is repaired properly and you're back on the road to enjoy it.
Ok, took my car in at 7:00am Tuesday got it Back today at 3:00pm. They told me it would cost extra due to the headers and I agreed, never did I think it would be 6 hours but I didn’t ask and they didn’t say up front so, with a alignment $1,835.00. So I sucked that up and said I didn’t want any noises, rattles, knocks ect. Started up drove 100 miles back to ku podunk town and started hearing a scraping sound, drove it into the garage and put in in neutral and it sounded like someone was under the car shaving metal, put in the clutch-goner let the clutch out scraping. Called the dealership and the tech of course had gone for the day, I am pissed. I don’t even want to drive it for fear of screwing something up even worse.
Not sure what it could be but it sounds like hell and s tarted bucking when I took it around the block.These are chevy trained technicians, "corvette trained specialist” I was so afraid of this very thing but in N.Dakota there are no speed shops or tuners, WTF!!!!!!
#27
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St. Jude Donor '15
Give them a chance to fix it. Do not drive it anymore until you talk to them.
#28
Drifting
Ok, took my car in at 7:00am Tuesday got it Back today at 3:00pm. They told me it would cost extra due to the headers and I agreed, never did I think it would be 6 hours but I didn’t ask and they didn’t say up front so, with a alignment $1,835.00. So I sucked that up and said I didn’t want any noises, rattles, knocks ect. Started up drove 100 miles back to ku podunk town and started hearing a scraping sound, drove it into the garage and put in in neutral and it sounded like someone was under the car shaving metal, put in the clutch-goner let the clutch out scraping. Called the dealership and the tech of course had gone for the day, I am pissed. I don’t even want to drive it for fear of screwing something up even worse.
Not sure what it could be but it sounds like hell and s tarted bucking when I took it around the block.These are chevy trained technicians, "corvette trained specialist” I was so afraid of this very thing but in N.Dakota there are no speed shops or tuners, WTF!!!!!!
Not sure what it could be but it sounds like hell and s tarted bucking when I took it around the block.These are chevy trained technicians, "corvette trained specialist” I was so afraid of this very thing but in N.Dakota there are no speed shops or tuners, WTF!!!!!!
I hate stories like this. With my lousy Canadian dollar being so inferior atm, I would have taken 500 US any day to do that for you lol.
You don't need a speed shop or tuner, just a good shop that knows what they're doing.
#29
That blows...
Hopefully it's something minor but if the noise goes away when you push the clutch in I'm not sure. Sounds like a throw out bearing but I assume they replaced that. Best to get them to tow it into the dealership on their dime to diagnose. You paid a good amount for the work and they should take care of you.
I hope that the amount of time this took doesn't mean they were using your car to train a new tech. I'm not trying to make the situation seem worse than it is but it seems like a long time for this work to be completed.
Hopefully it's something minor but if the noise goes away when you push the clutch in I'm not sure. Sounds like a throw out bearing but I assume they replaced that. Best to get them to tow it into the dealership on their dime to diagnose. You paid a good amount for the work and they should take care of you.
I hope that the amount of time this took doesn't mean they were using your car to train a new tech. I'm not trying to make the situation seem worse than it is but it seems like a long time for this work to be completed.
#30
Team Owner
Anyone want to bet they didn't refill his tranny like noted on here, and he now has a junk tranny? Would take about 100 miles, and would make those noises.
#31
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St. Jude Donor '15
Wouldn't surprise me a bit.
#33
Team Owner
Look at receipt and see if they charged you for tranny fluid.
#34
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
i recorded the sound of the clutch/tranny noise, its very obvious but I can’t seem t get it on my post, I get to 99% complete and then it says wrong file
Last edited by garye; 08-27-2015 at 11:21 PM.
#35
Drifting
Upload to YouTube, then share the link here. All my vids posted here were done that way. It's also nice that afterwards, you can share that link with anyone. Even email to the dealer. You can make the Clip private so that only the link will work and won't come up in a search if you wish
#36
Drifting
Damn, sorry to hear.
We do have a speed shop around. It's Robi's Repair about 25 miles north of Bismarck in Wilton.
They just built a twin turboed Z06. My coworker had his Coyote 5.0 supercharged by them as well.
I hope you get it straightened out soon.
We do have a speed shop around. It's Robi's Repair about 25 miles north of Bismarck in Wilton.
They just built a twin turboed Z06. My coworker had his Coyote 5.0 supercharged by them as well.
I hope you get it straightened out soon.
#37
The joys of an aftermarket clutch, and what happens if you don't check the free play between the clutch fingers and the TO bearing before you install the torque tube with slave cylinder.
The short version, measure from the back of the bell housing to the clutch fingers once the clutch is installed and you have the bell housing in place, then compress the slave cylinder TP bearing in against outer spring all the way in, then measure the distance from the face of the TO bearing to the face of the torque tube.
The TO bearing to face of torque tube better been .125" to .145" shorter than the distance of the clutch fingers to the back of the bell housing. If it not, then either the slave/it spacer shim is not install correctly/ the wrong units, or the clutch was not assembled correctly instead.
Hence, without the free space between the TO bearing and the fingers, then the TO bearing is going to be pushing the fingers in 100 percent of the time, and the TO bearing/clutch is going to go south real quick instead.
As for the outer slave spring, it just lightly pushes the TO bearing forward against the fingers as an take up adjustment, and does not put major pressure of the TO bearing to the fingers instead.
The short version, measure from the back of the bell housing to the clutch fingers once the clutch is installed and you have the bell housing in place, then compress the slave cylinder TP bearing in against outer spring all the way in, then measure the distance from the face of the TO bearing to the face of the torque tube.
The TO bearing to face of torque tube better been .125" to .145" shorter than the distance of the clutch fingers to the back of the bell housing. If it not, then either the slave/it spacer shim is not install correctly/ the wrong units, or the clutch was not assembled correctly instead.
Hence, without the free space between the TO bearing and the fingers, then the TO bearing is going to be pushing the fingers in 100 percent of the time, and the TO bearing/clutch is going to go south real quick instead.
As for the outer slave spring, it just lightly pushes the TO bearing forward against the fingers as an take up adjustment, and does not put major pressure of the TO bearing to the fingers instead.
#38
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St. Jude Donor '15
Shouldn't need to measure anything with a Mantic 9000. No one that installs them shims them.
The one person I know that did shim his ended up having to take it back apart and remove the shims.
The one person I know that did shim his ended up having to take it back apart and remove the shims.
#39
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Upload to YouTube, then share the link here. All my vids posted here were done that way. It's also nice that afterwards, you can share that link with anyone. Even email to the dealer. You can make the Clip private so that only the link will work and won't come up in a search if you wish
Last edited by garye; 08-28-2015 at 10:12 AM.
#40
Team Owner
Agreed, never seen a mantic need shims. Now RXTs it is pretty common, and RPS too. Mantics never seen it.
Noise from front or rear of car? If from front sounds like the messed something up with clutch. If it is from the rear, then they messed the tranny up.
Noise from front or rear of car? If from front sounds like the messed something up with clutch. If it is from the rear, then they messed the tranny up.