njedwardz

Hey all,

I'm looking to throw a cam in my car within the next 6 months, and I plan to put in a new torque converter within the next 1-3 months.

It's a 2013 C6 A6 base (2.56 rear end). I have Pfadt Long tube headers, high flow cats, x-pipe, B&B cat back, Halltech intake, 160* thermostat, tune, CoW Booster, ATI stock size damper. Also running a B&M trans cooler in the fender with a thermostatically controlled fan. Cooler is plumbed in series with factory cooler in radiator. I don't see anything over 180 even in 105* ambient temps pushing the car hard. Maybe see 190 on the track if I'm making back to back runs. Not worried about heat at this point lol.

Currently making around 440/450 at the wheels (hp/tq).

I'm planning to go with a Lethal Racing Nightfury camshaft package, as they're local and I've had great experience with them. I anticipate making somewhere around 490/470, although those numbers may be off a bit. Some of their Camaro installs are making 480/460, so I figure mine making a bit more would be expected since it's not far from that already. I don't have the specs on the cam right now, but maybe they'll see this and can chime in (or one of their customers...).

I don't anticipate putting a blower on it any time soon, so it will stay at that power level for quite a long time.

The car is run 98% street, 2% track (road course and strip), and is my only vehicle. I put around 20,000 miles per year on it; streetability is important to me lol.

I'm looking around the 2800-3200 stall range.

I know the Yank and Vigilante converters are popular on the forum. I've also looked into ProTorque at the recommendation of Chuck. Recently, I've been looking into FTI's triple disc converters and I really like what I see. I know they're a bit more expensive than the others I mentioned, but I think it might be worth it. I like the feel of the car locked up when I'm just cruising around town, and then I'll have sport mode for when I want to put it on "kill" and leave it unlocked more. Also want to be able to have reliable WOT lock for road course use.

So, taking all this into account, what would y'all recommend for me? I'm probably going to order it through Lethal, and I'll be calling them about it within the next couple weeks, but I thought I'd get the forum's opinion first. Also probably going to call and talk to some of the manufacturers just to get their input.

Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post lol!

0Chuck CoW

We've had great luck with our newest CoW CAM grind on A6 cars with the Pro Torque 2800 converters we've been using.

Recently Joe @ ProTorque re-designed the pump side of his very popular converter and we really like it a lot.

If this your DAILY and your ONLY car.... Don't fool yourself into thinking your car needs more than a 2800 converter.

Yes, bigger converters make the car go faster in most circumstances but it always comes with a price or consequence.

When you are RACING, TRACKING, or WINNING MONEY then converters like 3400 and up are ok, provided it's

NOT your daily driver or only car. In some cases Joe will advise just over 2800 but not often.

Take it from me.... This forum pushes the 3200 and up converters and it's foolish for anyone with a truly STREET driven car

to do more than 2800. SURE THING you can install a 5,000 rpm converter an d still make down the road to or to the car show.....

but, hopefully you understand my point. BIG converters are NOT streetable and not recommended.


Nolan, on that note if you truly want to enjoy your car and have your daily driver "live" for a while, the Pro Torque 2800 is

my best advice. In an A6 car our aggressive cam and that converter will really get you the most out of the car and keep

things reliable and fun.

Call any time.
Chuck CoW






CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFO on Pro TORQUE CONVERTERS!

HOXXOH

I'm currently running a 4000 Yank on my '08 DD bolton with a 2.56 and getting 1.48 60' times and high 10's in the 125-126 range. I've also had a 3200 and a 3600 in the car. The 3200 drove better than stock, including the track, city, and highway. The switch to the 3600 was only a minor change from the 3200 for DD, but made nearly .5 at the track. Now with the 4000, the track is great, but the city DD part suffers until a 40 MPH shift to lockup in 5th. Highway never changed from stock.

My opinion would be to use the 3200 and suffer at the drags if you're serious about going FI soon. Otherwise, the 3600 is still a good all-around DD and will give excellent track results. 5/6th gear lockup can still happen regardless of the stall speeds. Still getting 27-28 mpg on road trips with 126K miles on the car.

I'm not trying to sell you anything, but only saying what worked for me and an opinion from a DD/racer.

njedwardz

Chuck,

Thanks for chiming in. I've definitely looked into the pro torques, just haven't seen as many people on here running them as many other brands. Figured I'd do a bit of research over the next couple weeks before pulling the trigger on anything. I have found that you do a large amount of work with people like me who really like to have fun but still need their cars to drive pretty much stock day to day, so I really do appreciate your experience on stuff like this.

Thanks for the reply. I think a 3200 is the most I'd want to go on anything, and probably a bit lower honestly. I'm really not overly concerned with track performance as I'm maybe out on the road course once a year (and I'm planning to be locked there anyway), and the dragstrip 2-3 times a year. I don't have any plans to pick up DRs anytime soon, either, so I'll be traction limited by my PSS tires regardless of stall speed, cam, FI, whatever (although it pretty much has to be raining for me to even break them loose in this 100* heat wave).

I've been messing with lockup settings recently on the stock converter, and I like having it locked from 4th gear on, starting around 35. Goal is to get consistently good mpg without falling below ~1300 RPM to avoid lugging. I messed around with locking in 3rd as well but I spend so little time there it really wasn't worth it.

However, for the rare times that I am on a road course, I would like to have a converter that will maintain lock at WOT (in at least 3rd and up, and possibly second). I'm sure any aftermarket converter will be up to that task at 500RWHP, and it's really going to be some time before I even think about going FI, so I'm not abundantly concerned with that part of it yet.

My only thoughts are really drivability and smoothness of the lockup/unlock transitions (assuming all other things are equal between different manufacturers with the same stall speed, which I know isn't the case..). That's the reason the FTI 3 disc got my attention; rumor has it it's made to run a progressive lockup similar to the stock converter (although I don't think my stock one is tuned like that...). Sounds like if I get the tune right it could theoretically be unnoticeable.

I also have to face the fact that the car is occasionally driven by others without me in the car, so I want it to be somewhat analogous to driving any regular car even though it's not one.

brewcitygymratt

You can't go wrong with Circle D, Yank or precision industries. I've had a PI vigilante in my last vette and have a circle d my c6. My circle d stalls in the 3k range but I bought a small stall planning on a blower install. Since I went heads cam instead I wish I went bigger. The 3k is just slightly looser than stock but haven't noticed much loss of mpg. If you plan on staying NA you may not be happy with a baby stall. I daily my car from April to nov except for heavy rain. My trans temps have s hard time hitting 160, usually much cooler unless it's bring hot lapped in hot weather. Your car makes a lot of hp through an a6 with light bolt on only. If you are set on using only street tires, traction will be a prob. I run a dr full time with my baby stall and I'm only at 460rw

xBoostx

Hello out there just did a max effort heads and cam and about the rite time Dave at Yank asked me to try out for him a new A6 power adder 9.5 inch he just came out with, I was skeptical at fist sense I'm use to the Pro-Yank but I was sweetly surprised with his new offering.

Sought I share with you all my experience, Dave send me a high stall that drives around town more like stock without any noticeable slippage the new 3,400 stall power adder offering.

Here's what I like about it first it's several lbs. lighter and it does drive crisp and it even lives the light real quick like stock but man! the second you get on the gas like half way or better it flashes to 4,800 rpms and hold on it really hits hard I know you'll love these one, of course it will need the aid of drag radials, I enjoy the Nitto nto5r a lot more now.

The 6l80 listing may not pull up yet but I know they are available if you call him, just mention David from Miami Gardens let you in on the new power adder offering experience.
http://www.converter.cc/default.asp

0Chuck CoW

Pro Torque is #1 in the serious racing scene. The forefront of development and really fast cars.

Not just the retail street car scene.... REAL race cars.

Nolan, You have already answered your own questions....


Nolan.... You know how forums work.... You'll have the guys that drive 4,500 converters telling you how streetable

they are.... You know... Again, you outlined what you expect....

And hopefully now you know the answer.


At some point most of us grow up and realize that "bigger" isn't always better.

If I had a nickel for every person that came to me with their tail between their legs, asking for help, because they

let forums and the internet spec out their cars...... ID BE RICH!

You know what to do.
Chuck CoW

SteveDoten@ARH

Very true.

xBoostx

OPs car a race car? do you have a race car? anybody can type a race car.

I walk my talk hands on, keep talking.

I talk what I do and know what I use.

HOXXOH

Why care what converters are run in "the serious race scene" on the "REAL race cars" being trailered to the track, since we drive our Vettes as DD on the street.

Most of the 10 second boltons and internals on the CF fast list run Yank converters. There's a reason and it's because they perform the best.

njedwardz

I'd rather people post their experiences with their particular converters, or those they've installed for customers, rather than everyone going back and forth saying how one brand/stall is better than another. Hopefully I'm able to use that to get a good picture of what setup is best for me.

I started this thread because I enjoy doing research. Because I won't be installing this myself, there's a very high chance that I'm going to go to my installer and ask them what they recommend and just buy whatever they tell me to and call it a day, but I still don't make those kind of decisions without doing my due diligence. If I see something on here that I like better than their recommendation, I'll go with that (provided my installer can do all the ordering; I find that most shops prefer that customers don't bring their own parts...). That's why I started this a month or two ahead of time, so that I could really get some solid information before dropping $1500 on this and $2500 on the came later on, and then potentially regretting my choices.

I also hope that this could be a nice informational thread for others in the future, even though there are already similar threads. The more information available, the better for all parties involved.

I appreciate everyone's responses but I don't think we gain anything by calling each other out or bickering.

HOXXOH

Because it appears you prefer to take a profit motivated installers opinion rather than those of users who actually daily drive the same car you own and expect to daily drive, I suggest you research the performance list, since there is numerical data available that is not clouded by opinions or financial incentives.

Also remember that any installer can order any part, just like you can. If they only will install a certain brand, find a different installer, because the labor is what you're paying for.

As far as comments are concerned, finding what you want is easier if all the irrelevant comments are noted and subsequently disregarded.

njedwardz

Please don't misunderstand me; I appreciate everyone's opinion. I obviously appreciate yours as the you're at the top of the fast list for bolt-ons; you know what you're talking about. I appreciate Chuck's because he's been very helpful to me over the past year tuning wise. I appreciate my installer's because they do good work, I trust them, and I can walk in whenever I want and have a good talk with the guys that work there. Honestly I think anyone who has a daily driven C6 A6 with a higher stall has a valid opinion here.

Obviously, there's many ways to skin this cat, just as many as there are when choosing a cam package or FI setup or whatever. Some might not have an issue with a 4000 stall on the street, others might hate it. I have literally no idea where I fall there, as the most stall I've ever driven is my dad's C7 which hits around 2400. With that car being so different than mine, it isn't really a valid comparison imo.

You have a ton more track experience than me, and honestly that probably puts the track at a different priority level for you. That's not a bad thing by any means. I've only been to the strip on literally 4 occasions, mostly to see what my car will do, and I really like going to the road course but honestly can't afford to do it as much as I want. Because of that, street performance/reliability is pretty much what I'm after. I'm not doubting that your setup works great for that! I'm not doubting anyone else's setup either!

I just have to be able to take that step back and say that as much as I'd like to have a car that can kick *** in the quarter or one that's a track machine, my only use (besides maybe 2-10 hours per year total) for the car is getting around. Now, I like to do that quickly, but that's the situation I'm coming from. I guess a more accurate estimate would be 99.995% street, 0.005% track.

Hopefully my sleep deprived brain is making sense here. I'm starting to grow tired of college.. Point is, I don't value any one person's opinion/experiences here over anyone else's.

Thanks for the responses so far.

C6David

If its mainly your daily Id go for the Yank SS3200. I dont have any expirience with other converters other than yank in the corvettes so I cant say anything for the other brands. My car is my sole mode of transportation also and I have a SS4000 as I go to the track a lot. I also put 12000 miles on my car per year. I had a ss3600 before and it wasnt enough for the track so stepped up to the 4000. In your situation Id go for the 3200. It wont be as fast but it will fit your needs better. This is strictly talking yank SS converters though.

As far as performance with the SS3600 my cam only ls3 did a 11.3@121. With the SS4000 it did a 10.7@126. 452whp/411wtq. With headers and intake and the ss4000 I did a 11.3@120. So the converter is going to help the time a lot but if you dont want to take the hit in drivability then the time is going to suffer with a smaller converter.

Now if you wanted to stay with a smaller converter you could do that and add a 3.42 rear end in it to get it off the line better at the track.

dennis50nj

I dont think 10 cents is rich Chuck! I dont know what you think the really fast cars are, but I believe some of the fastest on the performance list in quite a few categories are using Yank!!!!, it has been redesigned and has great street manners and quick coupling, never searching for locking and better 60 fts, my car drives like stock until you start driving aggressive then look out with 1.3 60 ft times at part throttle back peddling, thats with a 3800 PA converter NA, besting the vig buy a full 0.12 in 60 ft and 10.35 to a 10.16 with no other changes except converter same stall 3800, I have used many brand and custom built converters and I have never seen one that drives like the Yank, its the best, if you would try it you could get some of your peeps on the top of the fast list, just trying to help, take the advise of the people who drive the street and the fastest on the track with low hp, and we all know thats what a good converter was built for.

da6speed

I love my yank ss3600. Only been to the track once with it so far, but managed a 1.62 on 19 MT DRs leaving at 2500. Only mods are vararam, headers, yank and tune besides the radials. And drives excellent in city and on the highway, still have the 2.56 gears also!

Plaincoupe

I've had an "Yank" ss3600 and love'd it. It drove very nice on the street did wonderful at the track, had no issue what so ever driving it daily.....I wanted more so got another "Yank" ss4000 now this is the converter ive wanted! I love this one better. This over 2800 rpm converter not streetable crap is silly..........but anyway to each its own I guess.

grocerygetter

I just did a Circle D 3c...3500-3700...flash just right below 4k or right at it. I'm still on a stock cam but I have a ECS kit. Went from a 1.80 60' to a 1.57 60' with a bit more left in it... track was a bit tough with the cooler temps and the 275/40 17 was a bit finicky. I think high 1.4s low 1.5s are easily obtained with this set up and if really hooked up.
I had the same converter in my Camaro with a 6l80. I liked it in then with 3.70 gears and a 4k lb car. I like it better in the Vette because it is so much lighter...I also have 2.56s..so I will say you for sure know you have a high stall in it driving in town. It's fine in turns and at highway speed. What's awesome is that I actually picked up 2mph too at the drags.

pmwinc

I have a Circle D 3200...almost kinda wish I went to to a 2800-3000. Base 08 LS3, CAI, Headers, Z06 dual modes, 11.50@122 spinning a little. 11.80@123 w/o converter. NO t-stat, no pumped up front ties, almost no cool down from the drive there...

0Chuck CoW

Actually,........it appears that you've contracted "internet intelligence syndrome"... A disease in which the unfortunate person who contracts it reads internet forums and then next believes that he is "all knowing" simply by absorbing the misguided rants of people on any given forum....

Pro torque actually is at the top of professional drag racing and pretty much dominates the field with 8,7,&6 second cars. Serious stuff.....

much more aggressive than your run of the mill 10 or 9 second street car.

He leads the pack with a line of converters that he designs that have no business in SLOW cars such as yours.

I have a 25+ year relationship with him and his father and I personally prefer their products for all the jobs that run thru Corvettes of Westchester for many years.

Not really how you determine you "best" rating from the few cars you know of, but it;s a much bigger world out there...

You should broaden your horizions and look outside NJ and the CF....

There's lots out there that could really teach you something.

Pro Torque!
for me.
Chuck CoW