mikeCsix

Anyone know where we can get the correct coated fasteners
for the use with aluminum components?

I want to install studs in a couple of places, one is a header installation and the other are for sway bar mounts. Since these will be going into aluminum, if using plain fasteners, galvanic corrosion will set in and eventually make it impossible to remove them without breaking something, namely the fastener.

All of the fasteners I've seen used from GM are coated with something,
I don't think it is zinc, but looks like more of an "aluminized" coating.

The only other options I can see at this point would be to try to source silicon bronze studs or find some zinc coated studs and install them with caulking to seal them from water and moisture intrusion to keep corrosion from starting. Can't use silicon sealer either, polysulfide caulking is what would be needed. I'd rather use the same style components GM used.

RicK T

How about just regular old anti-seize compound, like used on spark plugs?

victorf

Hey, Mike, if I may be so bold as to making a suggestion?

Have you consider ARP? Aside from the benefits of higher resistance with corrosion and tensile strength than OEM, I have personally used/using ARP stainless with great success - but it is rather expensive!

mikeCsix

I thought of anti-seize compounds, in fact one I like is a copper based produce. I don't know if it will keep moisture out of and away from the fastener.

I also thought of stainless, it's easily procured and may be an option. I've had a lot of boats in the salt water environment and have a lot of experience with stainless/aluminum galvanic corrosion, mainly removing stainless fasteners from aluminum masts. Difficult to say the least. I found a product called Kroil, its about the best there is for loosening frozen fasteners, I want to not have to use it on the Corvette as the threads are weakened. I'm starting to see some of the effects on one of the brake calipers, a pin on one of them is starting to corrode. Fortunately, the torque forces are low.

Some time back I started using polysulfide caulking to really slow that process down. The caulk is easily found at boat supply stores.

Victor, what is ARP stainless? is that a higher nickle content stainless than what we normally find? Heck, titanium may be a good option too, though I haven't done a search for titanium fasteners yet and don't know if they are even made or if the material is strong enough to use as a fastener.

victorf

Fyi: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...04615367,d.cGU

Mike, under the right circumstances, combination such as high heat + salt water environment, even titanium will corrode.

As in using Ti, since application is structural, I took a chance, had made long/hollow wheel axle as well as long/hollow swing arm pivot bolt for my high power motorcycle - been using that since 1991 - no problem so far. I have personally machined/fabricated fasteners, using basically everything available to the DOD, including inconel, stellite, titanium, monel, K-monel, various exotic cres, alloy tool steel and..... for specified applications, having that experience - I came away having a fair understanding with these materials. I have a small machine shop, but at the end of the day, when justified with expense/usage, I simply put ARP cres fasteners on my C6, such as long tube header studs and have experience no problem with galvanic action and as you know, I live in an environment surrounded with the Pacific salt air 24/7.

I noticed you mentioned pin on one of your brake caliper is rusting. I have found using silicone past on the od works well. Unlike other grease/lube that contains petroleum as a base/carrier - 100% Silicone has a high temperature/moisture resistance and remains effective/stable, where others failed. That is my go to hostile environmental barrier.

mikeCsix

Awesome Victor, Thank You! I'll try to source ARP cres in the Seattle area. One corrosion preventive spray I use is BoeShield, developed by Boeing to help control corrosion in aircraft. The liquid evaporates and leaves a protective film. I use it on the rear hubs and so far they've remained rust free. I'll look for the silicone paste you mention, is that similar to o-ring grease?

I know your environment well and sorely miss it.

victorf

I am familiar with BoeShield.

In terms of corrosion preventive, there are loads of options out there for long term protection durability.

Depending on end use preference. I have found great results with Metalphilic compound, Eezox and USAFluid to be excellent. Metalphilic and Eezox both leave a dry appearance after cured, hand contact without wipe down will show no finger prints, attracts no dust, left undisturbed without abrasion, it will last for a long time. Some of my gun and custom knife have only one treatment done two decades ago. USAFluid after excess is wiped off and allow to cured, remains an oily sheen, but it offers great protection as well.

You might want to check this out: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...PYwqgjijI9hc3A

mikeCsix

Awesome Victor, Thank you again!