Z51 Rotors, Please help
#1
Z51 Rotors, Please help
2007 Z51. Im going from stock brake pads to Hawk HPS pads. Every rotor cutting place I call says "don't turn" the z51 rotors, just put the pads on. The dealerships cant help because with info because they deal in OEM and Hawk is aftermarket they say. I have no noises, shaking, pulsing of any kind right now. Just low pads. Do I find a place to turn the rotors which is going to be hard as hell to do. or just change the pads. And what about the transfer that's already on the rotors. How do I now get the Hawk pads transfer on them with the old transfer still on the rotors?
Last edited by Sykosus; 10-21-2015 at 11:03 AM.
#2
I've been a big fan of EBC's Pro-Cut Lathe system where they turn the rotors on the car so that they are perfectly in line with the hubs. Tons of places around the country use them. I would always want to do that before or when installing new pads.
What is different about the Z51 rotors that would make you not want to turn them? Since I have the Z51 package and will need pads at some point in the future, I am curious.
What is different about the Z51 rotors that would make you not want to turn them? Since I have the Z51 package and will need pads at some point in the future, I am curious.
#3
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
How many miles on the rotors?
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Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
#4
Race Director
I had 45K miles on my 05 Z51 rotors when I switched to AC Delco ceramic pads. I did nothing to the rotors. Just put the pads on and did the proper bedding procedure. That's it. It's been trouble free for 3 years. No noise, no dust and good stopping power. Just because you replace the pads does not mean you automatically need to resurface the rotors.
#5
I have 49k on the car. EV im hoping there is no problem with these either. Gonna bathe them in brake cleaner and put new pads on I guess.
Last edited by Sykosus; 10-21-2015 at 01:51 PM.
#9
Heres the thing. Even with 49k. My rotors have a ton of meat on them and are in great shape. Looks like they were already changed by previos owner.
Last edited by Sykosus; 10-21-2015 at 02:35 PM.
#10
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
Side note did you by the pads already?
Last edited by Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com; 10-21-2015 at 04:45 PM.
#12
Melting Slicks
You can have chatter from the drilled holes in the rotors. It can be rough on the lathe doing the cutting and prematurely ruining the cutting bit.
DJ
DJ
#13
Hence with the damper belt ring installed around the outside of the rotor rim and correct shallower cuts, the intermittent cuts of the rotor surface across the drilled channel/slots, ends with no surface chatter instead. The glitch is that is going to take a little longer to turn the drilled/slotted rotors correctly, so you end up with about $5 more a rotor in cost to have it turned.
Last edited by Dano523; 10-22-2015 at 06:39 AM.
#16
Melting Slicks
Only if the dampener/silencer belt is not installed around the out side of the rotor when the drilled/slotted rotors are being turned, and/or someone is taking deep fast advance cuts: instead of the needed shallow slow advance cuts instead.
Hence with the damper belt ring installed around the outside of the rotor rim and correct shallower cuts, the intermittent cuts of the rotor surface across the drilled channel/slots, ends with no surface chatter instead. The glitch is that is going to take a little longer to turn the drilled/slotted rotors correctly, so you end up with about $5 more a rotor in cost to have it turned.
https://youtu.be/auSf8t0Fi0g
Hence with the damper belt ring installed around the outside of the rotor rim and correct shallower cuts, the intermittent cuts of the rotor surface across the drilled channel/slots, ends with no surface chatter instead. The glitch is that is going to take a little longer to turn the drilled/slotted rotors correctly, so you end up with about $5 more a rotor in cost to have it turned.
https://youtu.be/auSf8t0Fi0g
If someone is familiar with properly using the lathe, back when I worked at a dealership there were quite a few techs that didn't even know what the damper belt was for. (Just part changers.) never less, it is people like this that might be working on your rotors.
DJ
#18
Melting Slicks
DJ
#20
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St. Jude Donor '13
Last time I looked, the Service Manual said don't turn the rotors unless they are seriously scored or pitted. If they're that bad, then probably best to buy new ones. Of course, the SM assumes you are replacing stock pads with new stock pads.