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Very hard to start when warm all of a sudden.

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Old 09-27-2016, 07:44 PM
  #121  
ls3powerz51
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Originally Posted by Julio
Why not cap off the nozzle and hose. Its a simple 1/4 flare cap and plug. If the problem goes away then we have to see whats going on. Just dont boost the car while troubleshooting as there will be no meth system.

I tried that.. The issue goes away when you disable the meth. Turn the meth back on, wait till its over 80 degrees outside, drive the car like you stole it, then the problem occurs. Really, i'v tried a lot of different driving styles and it still happens if meth was used during that drive.
Old 09-27-2016, 08:01 PM
  #122  
Julio
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Originally Posted by ls3powerz51
I tried that.. The issue goes away when you disable the meth. Turn the meth back on, wait till its over 80 degrees outside, drive the car like you stole it, then the problem occurs. Really, i'v tried a lot of different driving styles and it still happens if meth was used during that drive.
Dumb question, you do have a check valve on the nozzle? And is the pressure line going from the filter to the jet away from direct heat. Example it's not zip tied to the upper radiator hose or behind the fan getting cooked.

If the clear activation LED is off, the system is simply not sending power to run the pump. That's electrically, doesn't mean pneumatically it can't move liquid, but that typically involves a lot of heat applied to the hose
Old 09-27-2016, 09:11 PM
  #123  
gr86ss
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My methanol line is routed from the left fender liner on top of the frame, then over to behind the alternator, and routed under the throttle body and to the intake charge tube. I get the red/green light on mine when getting into boost
Old 09-27-2016, 09:20 PM
  #124  
schpenxel
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Originally Posted by Julio
Dumb question, you do have a check valve on the nozzle? And is the pressure line going from the filter to the jet away from direct heat. Example it's not zip tied to the upper radiator hose or behind the fan getting cooked.

If the clear activation LED is off, the system is simply not sending power to run the pump. That's electrically, doesn't mean pneumatically it can't move liquid, but that typically involves a lot of heat applied to the hose
The clear activation LED turns red on mine while cranking. Does that mean it's pumping?

Last edited by schpenxel; 09-27-2016 at 09:20 PM.
Old 09-27-2016, 09:28 PM
  #125  
ls3powerz51
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Originally Posted by gr86ss
My methanol line is routed from the left fender liner on top of the frame, then over to behind the alternator, and routed under the throttle body and to the intake charge tube. I get the red/green light on mine when getting into boost
Mine is routed the same way. Mine is dual nozzle routed in a U shape to the bottom of charge tube and then routed nicely to the fender. I tried to take a picture just now, but lighting sucks in a garage and a flash light didn't help. lol

I wonder if we can wrap anything in a heat shield or something. I had my headers ceramic coated and it helped with temps under hood, but not enough to help with that starting issue. I mainly did that to keep the AC working in stop and go traffic and that helped.

Anyways... I emailed Alky and attach a link to this whole thread. There is 9 pages of everything others with the same issue have tried.

Fingers crossed. If i hear about anything, i'll update this post..

Thanks
Old 09-27-2016, 09:30 PM
  #126  
ls3powerz51
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
The clear activation LED turns red on mine while cranking. Does that mean it's pumping?
I think someone earlier said that it lights up but didn't do anything. They pulled the nozzle out and cranked it and nothing came out.
Old 09-27-2016, 09:48 PM
  #127  
schpenxel
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Julio=Alky control

And yeah that was me that did that. I wanted to see what Julio thought.
Old 09-28-2016, 09:19 AM
  #128  
Julio
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
The clear activation LED turns red on mine while cranking. Does that mean it's pumping?
More than likely

Take hose off and put into a bottle then crank and see if alcohol comes out. If so the "Turnon point" may be set too low..
Old 09-28-2016, 09:27 AM
  #129  
Julio
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Originally Posted by gr86ss
My methanol line is routed from the left fender liner on top of the frame, then over to behind the alternator, and routed under the throttle body and to the intake charge tube. I get the red/green light on mine when getting into boost
So your line is routed over the valve cover as its going behind the alternator. Thats not the typical fashion for routing it.

32 inch hose from pump goes to filter that sits on top of frame by the drivers control arm. Then 32 inch hose routes forward over the top of the radiator and back towards the throttle body.

Methanol boils at 160 degree's. So if lines are getting directed heat, the alcohol will boil/percolate. Ways around this is insulating the lines with sleeving from DEI like whats used on plug boots, keeping lines from resting on parts that get hot(exhaust, engine, etc), adding a higher pressure check valve to raise the boiling point of methanol.

On Porsches, I include 2 check valves. One on the filter and one on the nozzle. As those rear engines cook..
Old 09-28-2016, 09:31 AM
  #130  
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Wanted to add.. your not puddling methanol inside a hot intake manifold. Thats like puddling brake cleaner on a hot rotor.

Wont happen.

One more thing, make sure you have a vent on the washer tank and its not plugged off or covered. If the tank doesnt breath, once it gets hot it will expand and put liquid. Like a gas can left out in the sun.
Old 09-28-2016, 03:37 PM
  #131  
gr86ss
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Originally Posted by Julio
So your line is routed over the valve cover as its going behind the alternator. Thats not the typical fashion for routing it.

32 inch hose from pump goes to filter that sits on top of frame by the drivers control arm. Then 32 inch hose routes forward over the top of the radiator and back towards the throttle body.

Methanol boils at 160 degree's. So if lines are getting directed heat, the alcohol will boil/percolate. Ways around this is insulating the lines with sleeving from DEI like whats used on plug boots, keeping lines from resting on parts that get hot(exhaust, engine, etc), adding a higher pressure check valve to raise the boiling point of methanol.

On Porsches, I include 2 check valves. One on the filter and one on the nozzle. As those rear engines cook..
Mine is routed from the frame rail (above the control arm) to behind the alternator, between the front of the valve cover, then under the throttle body to the intake charge tube. That's the way A&A Corvettes routed it.
Old 09-28-2016, 04:47 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by gr86ss
Mine is routed from the frame rail (above the control arm) to behind the alternator, between the front of the valve cover, then under the throttle body to the intake charge tube. That's the way A&A Corvettes routed it.
If your having an issue, then move it from its routed location and retry. Cost is zero to do
Old 09-30-2016, 12:23 AM
  #133  
gr86ss
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Ok, today I didn't get ino boost and I drove to another building at work. When I got back to car, approx 1hr later it did it again.... I pressed the gas pedal, as it was struggling to start, and it started. I'll reroute the line when I get back from vacation. Doesnt look like enough length, but I'll give it try.

Last edited by gr86ss; 09-30-2016 at 02:15 AM.
Old 09-30-2016, 02:16 AM
  #134  
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Possible it has nothing to do with your meth .... Might be same problem I had which I never really figured out for certain. Why not turn meth off and see if it still happens ?
Old 09-30-2016, 01:55 PM
  #135  
genolan
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Add me to the list of hard warm starts. This started after I had a supercharger and meth installed. It was done by ECS so I'm sure they did it correctly. Has anyone solved the problem yet?
Old 09-30-2016, 02:26 PM
  #136  
gr86ss
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Just to clarify my case. I never had the hard start issue prior to the methanol injection installation. I did the Akly control kit done several months after my initial Super Charger install. Only has happend on 80 degree plus days
Old 09-30-2016, 04:52 PM
  #137  
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I believe the evidence is pointing toward a rich condition caused by Meth, I think Julio's idea that the Meth bottle and lines are getting hot when sitting and expanding meth into the charge tube maybe the best hypothesis. We need someone who can develop a test case and prove this is the root cause.

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Old 09-30-2016, 05:38 PM
  #138  
gr86ss
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I totally concur with this hypothesis, and is what I've been thinking all along since this didn't occur prior to my Alky Control kit. I had A&A reduce the fuel table at start up, and they thought they removed enough, but it wasn't hot that day when I was in So Cal (if you can believe that).

Test case would be to disable the meth kit and drive it when it's hot outside, let it sit for 20-30 minutes and then start it up. Problem is, it's getting close to the end of the year where the weather is starting to cool off I'm willing to test this out when I return from vacation.
Old 09-30-2016, 06:00 PM
  #139  
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Ok adding to the theory If the line stays full of meth when the system is active meaning you were driving hard enough to energize the pump then the Meth line would be full of Meth at shutdown, Since the vaporization temp of Meth is Approx 149 deg f that would mean all the vaporized meth would have no choice but to enter the charge tube on hot days. Best test, drive the car and get it hot but don't get into boost and see if the problem is gone. Then go out and get into boost with Meth spraying and shut her down and see if the hard start comes back.
Old 09-30-2016, 07:20 PM
  #140  
gr86ss
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Yesterday, I never went into boost. I drove from one building to another, was there for about an hour. When I went to go back to my building I had the hard start problem. Pressing the gas pedal when it was slowly cranking over got the engine to fire up.


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