SLP catted or OBX catted headers ?
11-27-2015, 09:48 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
SLP catted or OBX catted headers ?
SLP catted or OBX catted headers ? Which do you folks consider better quality and DIY installation friendly? Yes SLP cost more but are they substantially better?
Thanks
Thanks
11-27-2015, 01:45 PM
#3
Granted that the OBX bolts themselves are total ***** and needs to be replaced before the system is install, the flange type header connectors are easier to get a seal than the slip type fittings isntead.
Hence the slip fitting headers are not bad, but you need to use sealer agent on the slip joints from the header to the X pipe section to prevent any leaks on these fittings.
So on the OBX header, you want to replace all the bolts and slip joint clamps with good units before you do the install. As for the slip joints on the X pipe section for the cats and from the straight pipes to the start of the X pipe, do a dry fitting to begin with to get the X pipe with cats to the needed length, the drop the fitted X pipe and have the slip Joints from the cats to the straight pipes then to the X section welded isntead (for seams that have band clamps in the below photo).
This will leave the header flange to cats for a bolt removable point, and the only slip joints at the back of the X pipe to the muffler pipes when you have to remove the system instead.
As for why the X pipe section does not come pre welded from the cats back, the pipe section has to be fitted to the car to get the needed length first, then is can be welded once it has been length correctly instead.
P.S, if your running N/A, then you want 1-3/4" header pipes for say a stock'ish LS-2/3. If you are running heavily moded or a super chargered, then you want 1-7/8" header pipes instead. Hence this comes back to how the headers will scalvage at low to higher RPMs, instead of just how much they will flow exhaust at top RPM before the become a choke point instead. So with the smaller pipes, faster air flow through the collector and the header will scavenge better at the lower RPMS to make more power there than headers will a larger pipe size instead.
Hence the slip fitting headers are not bad, but you need to use sealer agent on the slip joints from the header to the X pipe section to prevent any leaks on these fittings.
So on the OBX header, you want to replace all the bolts and slip joint clamps with good units before you do the install. As for the slip joints on the X pipe section for the cats and from the straight pipes to the start of the X pipe, do a dry fitting to begin with to get the X pipe with cats to the needed length, the drop the fitted X pipe and have the slip Joints from the cats to the straight pipes then to the X section welded isntead (for seams that have band clamps in the below photo).
This will leave the header flange to cats for a bolt removable point, and the only slip joints at the back of the X pipe to the muffler pipes when you have to remove the system instead.
As for why the X pipe section does not come pre welded from the cats back, the pipe section has to be fitted to the car to get the needed length first, then is can be welded once it has been length correctly instead.
P.S, if your running N/A, then you want 1-3/4" header pipes for say a stock'ish LS-2/3. If you are running heavily moded or a super chargered, then you want 1-7/8" header pipes instead. Hence this comes back to how the headers will scalvage at low to higher RPMs, instead of just how much they will flow exhaust at top RPM before the become a choke point instead. So with the smaller pipes, faster air flow through the collector and the header will scavenge better at the lower RPMS to make more power there than headers will a larger pipe size instead.
Last edited by Dano523; 11-27-2015 at 01:53 PM.
The following users liked this post:
xgto (11-27-2015)