car dead & locked
11-27-2015, 02:55 PM
#1
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car dead & locked
Hi all:
I just had a strange situation I am hoping I can get some advice on. Just tried to strat my 06 vert, and all the electronics seemed normal for a few seconds. I pushed the start button and everything went dead. I got out of the car, closed the door, and it locked immediately. Now I can't get back in, and have no idea what's wrong. I replaced the battery 6 months ago, and it has acted fine until today. two questions:
1: Any idea what the problem could be?
2: Is there any way to get in the car with the doors locked and the remote not working?
I just had a strange situation I am hoping I can get some advice on. Just tried to strat my 06 vert, and all the electronics seemed normal for a few seconds. I pushed the start button and everything went dead. I got out of the car, closed the door, and it locked immediately. Now I can't get back in, and have no idea what's wrong. I replaced the battery 6 months ago, and it has acted fine until today. two questions:
1: Any idea what the problem could be?
2: Is there any way to get in the car with the doors locked and the remote not working?
11-27-2015, 03:26 PM
#2
Team Owner
Get in using the old fashion hard key in the lock above the license plate.
11-27-2015, 03:34 PM
#3
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You are soooo screwed! 
Do you have a key? Use it in the lock by the license plate.
Do you have a key? Use it in the lock by the license plate.
11-27-2015, 03:53 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
If You have no key you can lift and support right front wheel / end of car.
slide under and connect +charger cable to starter solenoid + connection. The ground cable anywhere on frame W/good ground contact.
Then charge battery....... W/fob in car (depending where) door should be able to be opened.
slide under and connect +charger cable to starter solenoid + connection. The ground cable anywhere on frame W/good ground contact.
Then charge battery....... W/fob in car (depending where) door should be able to be opened.
Last edited by HK770; 11-27-2015 at 04:28 PM.
11-27-2015, 04:59 PM
#5
If You have no key you can lift and support right front wheel / end of car.
slide under and connect +charger cable to starter solenoid + connection. The ground cable anywhere on frame W/good ground contact.
Then charge battery....... W/fob in car (depending where) door should be able to be opened.
slide under and connect +charger cable to starter solenoid + connection. The ground cable anywhere on frame W/good ground contact.
Then charge battery....... W/fob in car (depending where) door should be able to be opened.
The last ditch effort would be to try and slip something passed the window and down to the emergency latch next to the seat and pop the door open that way. Only if the other 2 options don't work.
11-27-2015, 05:27 PM
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St. Jude Donor '15
The dealer can cut a new "trunk" key on the spot. Total cost is about $12 (yes, $12.). The key hole is facing down, right next to the license plate light.
Once you get the trunk open, there's a cable on the driver side wheel well that is connected to the door latch. Pull on it and the door will come unlatched enough to open it (will still require a little effort as the window won't roll down without power..)
My bet is on the connectors on the battery cables. Mine has done this more than a few times.. I was able to wiggle and push the battery cables around enough where they connect to the battery to get it to work when it happened for a while..
Finally replaced the connectors with aftermarket ones and have not had a problem since.
Once you get the trunk open, there's a cable on the driver side wheel well that is connected to the door latch. Pull on it and the door will come unlatched enough to open it (will still require a little effort as the window won't roll down without power..)
My bet is on the connectors on the battery cables. Mine has done this more than a few times.. I was able to wiggle and push the battery cables around enough where they connect to the battery to get it to work when it happened for a while..
Finally replaced the connectors with aftermarket ones and have not had a problem since.
Last edited by schpenxel; 11-27-2015 at 05:28 PM.
11-28-2015, 02:49 PM
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11-28-2015, 02:50 PM
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The dealer can cut a new "trunk" key on the spot. Total cost is about $12 (yes, $12.). The key hole is facing down, right next to the license plate light.
Once you get the trunk open, there's a cable on the driver side wheel well that is connected to the door latch. Pull on it and the door will come unlatched enough to open it (will still require a little effort as the window won't roll down without power..)
My bet is on the connectors on the battery cables. Mine has done this more than a few times.. I was able to wiggle and push the battery cables around enough where they connect to the battery to get it to work when it happened for a while..
Finally replaced the connectors with aftermarket ones and have not had a problem since.
Once you get the trunk open, there's a cable on the driver side wheel well that is connected to the door latch. Pull on it and the door will come unlatched enough to open it (will still require a little effort as the window won't roll down without power..)
My bet is on the connectors on the battery cables. Mine has done this more than a few times.. I was able to wiggle and push the battery cables around enough where they connect to the battery to get it to work when it happened for a while..
Finally replaced the connectors with aftermarket ones and have not had a problem since.
12-22-2015, 10:41 AM
#9
Ever determine what caused this? I went to start my 06 this mornning and as soon as the starter kicked in everything went completely dead (no power at all). I had to use the pull lever to open the door. I popped the hood and before i could even touch anything the power came back on and i was able to start the car. What could it be?
12-22-2015, 01:12 PM
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St. Jude Donor '15
Connectors weren't tight on mine either. I chopped them off and replaced them with aftermarket pieces. No issues since and higher voltage showing on DIC all the time
12-22-2015, 01:37 PM
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12-22-2015, 03:59 PM
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St. Jude Donor '15
Mine had damn hear degraded to nothing left.. I bought new ones and found the new ones weren't much sturdier. Very cheap feeling, so that's why I went with aftermarket ones instead.
12-22-2015, 04:29 PM
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NCM Sinkhole Donor
Worthless information, but it really is the truth.
12-22-2015, 04:32 PM
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St. Jude Donor '15
That doesn't surprise me..
The part that bothers me the most is my truck has a similar design with the nuts on the top.. but it is MUCH heavier duty/sturdier. I really wish they would have used that design on the Corvette clamps as well
The part that bothers me the most is my truck has a similar design with the nuts on the top.. but it is MUCH heavier duty/sturdier. I really wish they would have used that design on the Corvette clamps as well
12-23-2015, 01:17 PM
#17
I am not so sure if it is a question of heavy duty vs. just sized properly. I am maxed out on the nut torque but the connector still spins on the post. If the post were slightly larger OR the connectors slightly smaller i would assume it would be secure. Funny thing is that my buddies Nissan truck had the same issue.
Last edited by mfoti; 12-23-2015 at 01:18 PM.
12-23-2015, 02:40 PM
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NCM Sinkhole Donor
This must be a common problem. Post shims $1.69 at autozone
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...er/257147_0_0/
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...er/257147_0_0/
Just my opinion based on many tears in the battery business.
Last edited by timd38; 12-23-2015 at 02:40 PM.
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