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fellas , whats the easiest way to bleed the clutch on a C6 vert ,.. Im keep trying to bleed I myself and still keep getting air in the Clutch master cylinder which result in a hard clutch pedal ..
fellas , whats the easiest way to bleed the clutch on a C6 vert ,.. Im keep trying to bleed I myself and still keep getting air in the Clutch master cylinder which result in a hard clutch pedal ..
Air in the master will not cause a hard clutch pedal, the center coupling connector not connected correctly so there is flow through it from the master to the slave, will cause a hard clutch pedal instead (as well as the clutch not correctly installed, or clutch problem in the bell housing as well).
As for the easy way to bleed the clutch, power bleeder on the tank so you have a supply of fluid there that will be pushing towards the slave when you open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, then get under the car with a home made extended wrench so you can loosen the bleed valve at the slave to allow the power bleeder to push all the air out of the lines through the bleeder on the slave.
As for without the home made wrench, easy to just pull the intake manifold so you can get to the bleeder valve from the top of the engine if you don't have a remote bleeder line installed instead.
Also to point out, the master cylinder plunger has to be all the way back out, the clutch pedal all the way back up, before there is a open passage from the reserve tank, through the coupling and out the slave. Hence if the pedal is not all the way back up, then the master cylinder plunger is blocking the path of fluid through the master cylinder instead.
Air in the master will not cause a hard clutch pedal, the center coupling connector not connected correctly so there is flow through it from the master to the slave, will cause a hard clutch pedal instead (as well as the clutch not correctly installed, or clutch problem in the bell housing as well).
Air in the master will not cause a hard clutch pedal, the center coupling connector not connected correctly so there is flow through it from the master to the slave, will cause a hard clutch pedal instead (as well as the clutch not correctly installed, or clutch problem in the bell housing as well).
As for the easy way to bleed the clutch, power bleeder on the tank so you have a supply of fluid there that will be pushing towards the slave when you open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, then get under the car with a home made extended wrench so you can loosen the bleed valve at the slave to allow the power bleeder to push all the air out of the lines through the bleeder on the slave.
As for without the home made wrench, easy to just pull the intake manifold so you can get to the bleeder valve from the top of the engine if you don't have a remote bleeder line installed instead.
Also to point out, the master cylinder plunger has to be all the way back out, the clutch pedal all the way back up, before there is a open passage from the reserve tank, through the coupling and out the slave. Hence if the pedal is not all the way back up, then the master cylinder plunger is blocking the path of fluid through the master cylinder instead.
Thanks again Dano523 Ill try that , I have a tick, remote bleeder on it so it so it should be easier
Thanks again Dano523 Ill try that , I have a tick, remote bleeder on it so it so it should be easier
Should be a snap, but make sure that the pedal is all the way up before you power bleed. Myself, would through in a C5 pedal assist spring so I didn't have problems down the line with the Cruse control turning off if you hit a bit enough bump to dance the pedal off the top switch, but that is just me.
So with the clutch pedal all the way up, the remote bleeder open and stuck into a container to catch the fluid coming out of it, power bleeder on the reserve tank to push new fluid down through the lines, should push the trapped air in the lines out in no time as well.
Air in the master will not cause a hard clutch pedal, the center coupling connector not connected correctly so there is flow through it from the master to the slave, will cause a hard clutch pedal instead (as well as the clutch not correctly installed, or clutch problem in the bell housing as well).
As for the easy way to bleed the clutch, power bleeder on the tank so you have a supply of fluid there that will be pushing towards the slave when you open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, then get under the car with a home made extended wrench so you can loosen the bleed valve at the slave to allow the power bleeder to push all the air out of the lines through the bleeder on the slave.
As for without the home made wrench, easy to just pull the intake manifold so you can get to the bleeder valve from the top of the engine if you don't have a remote bleeder line installed instead.
Also to point out, the master cylinder plunger has to be all the way back out, the clutch pedal all the way back up, before there is a open passage from the reserve tank, through the coupling and out the slave. Hence if the pedal is not all the way back up, then the master cylinder plunger is blocking the path of fluid through the master cylinder instead.
Hey Dano , when you say clutch all the up, are you saying the pedal has to be pushed to the floor ? or vise versa .thx
Pedal has to be all the way up (opposite of being on the floor)
So with a remote bleeder and power bleeder, one does not pump the clutch pedal, but only use the power bleeder to push fluid through and into a catch jar (remote bleeder open). Is that correct?
Fluid can only flow from the reservoir to the master cylinder if the pedal is all the way to the top. If it's down even a small amount it will block the opening that connects the reservoir to the slave and no fluid will get through
You can pump it if you want, but youre going to have to get the pedal all the way back to the top before any fluid will transfer from reservoir to master
As for the easy way to bleed the clutch, power bleeder on the tank so you have a supply of fluid there that will be pushing towards the slave when you open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, then get under the car with a home made extended wrench so you can loosen the bleed valve at the slave to allow the power bleeder to push all the air out of the lines through the bleeder on the slave.
As for without the homemade wrench, easy to just pull the intake manifold so you can get to the bleeder valve from the top of the engine if you don't have a remote bleeder line installed instead.
I'm planning on doing a complete clutch hydraulic system flush on a C6 soon. I've seen the homemade wrench technique, but I've never heard of anyone going from under the hood to the bleeder on a C6. Can anyone else comment on their experience with the intake manifold removal method? Are there any gaskets that may need replaced in this case? What else needs to be removed? Is it less of a struggle than coming in from underneath?
My original plan was to use a low profile wrench and my hand-operated MityVac from underneath to pull the old fluid from the bleeder while I had an assistant keep the reservoir full of fresh fluid. Would there be enough advantage to using the power bleeder instead of the MityVac to justify investing in one?
I have also heard mixed reviews of the remote bleeders; some people claim that the additional volume of fluid on the slave-cylinder side can cause the clutch to be more spongy than without the remote line installed, even when the system is properly bled.
Wanted to add pics from the manifold removal method. Followed helpful removal guide from Peak Speed Shop , On this particular 2006 LS2 I was still not successful in getting functional access to the bleeder. I'm not saying it's impossible, but I was not able to do it, and could not even get my very thin fingers close enough to touch the cap on the bleeder. Most of the problem came from the AC lines, which run overtop the bellhousing and leave only a very narrow opening. I guess I will go with the "Ranger Method" until it is time to do an actual clutch job.
2006 C6 LS2 Clutch Slave Bleeder: From the front of the engine with the intake manifold moved out of the way, the slave cylinder bleeder can be seen protruding out of the bellhousing toward the driver's side at the ~1 o'clock position. What the picture fails to demonstrate accurately is depth, it is a long way from the front of that narrow opening to the bleeder itself, I could get my hand up to about mid palm and I was still nowhere near it.
11-28-2015, 11:05 AM
Clutch bleed
