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hey guys i am looking to do a tune up and oil change on my 06 and was just wondering if there are any aftermarket performance plugs and wires for the car? i ask this becuase i currently am running an after market tune and i had an 02 mustang in my past and i tuned it on stock spark plugs but once i upgraded the plugs, it was noticibely better. better throttle response, felt smoother, less pinging it was worth it. so woth that being sad do you guys have any suggestions?
I had that problem with NGK TR6's actually.. that's why I went over to factory ZR1 plugs and ditched the NGK's
It's so weird.. I have a screenshot in HP Tuners around here somewhere that shows a before and after voltage log from just changing the plugs/wires. The "before" shows voltage jumping up and down all over the place and the after has voltage higher and steady as a rock. So strange.
I had that problem with NGK TR6's actually.. that's why I went over to factory ZR1 plugs and ditched the NGK's
It's so weird.. I have a screenshot in HP Tuners around here somewhere that shows a before and after voltage log from just changing the plugs/wires. The "before" shows voltage jumping up and down all over the place and the after has voltage higher and steady as a rock. So strange.
Just to add to the confusion, I have TR6 plugs and don't have an issue, but my tuner says that he has seen a bunch of issues. I have BilletTech alternator and don't know if that makes a difference or not.
The only theory I've seen is certain plugs cause some kind of interference to the signal going to the alternator that controls its output. I don't know enough about electricity to know anymore than that
RF interference/feed back through the electrical system (which is mostly solid state and requires smoothed filter power to begin with).
Hence the higher Resistance of the OEM wires and plugs works to suppress the FR interference back through the coils/electrical system instead. So the problem comes from the spark coils when there is not enough resistance between them and the actual spark of the plug.
Note, if you are old enough, then the same problem happened with the old cars to create a radio ignition noise in the radios. The solution there to solve that problem since it was just the radio that was having the FRI problem, you put a capacitor between the coil positive wire and ground to bleed the RFI feed back to ground at the coil.
RF interference/feed back through the electrical system (which is mostly solid state and requires smoothed filter power to begin with).
Hence the higher Resistance of the OEM wires and plugs works to suppress the FR interference back through the coils/electrical system instead. So the problem comes from the spark coils when there is not enough resistance between them and the actual spark of the plug.
Note, if you are old enough, then the same problem happened with the old cars to create a radio ignition noise in the radios. The solution there to solve that problem since it was just the radio that was having the FRI problem, you put a capacitor between the coil positive wire and ground to bleed the RFI feed back to ground at the coil.
Good old days when a tune up consisted of replacing spark plugs, spark plug wires, points, condenser, rotor and distributor cap.
2013 Grand Sport here. My car has Longtube Headers, a tune, exhaust & an air intake. The installer recommended Taylor wires & NGK Iridium IX plugs. The car is running like greased Owl ****...?...It runs great & pulls hard. There's no plug/wire issues that I know of. (I've heard that some people get the DIC warning "Service Electrical System")...I don't really know about that. Mine did it once a few weeks after all the install & tuning. I never saw it again. It might have had to do w/how sensitive the LS3's ECU is to electrical changes...? My car is running strong & no issues with this combo. (These are TR6 IX plugs at .040 GAP)
Last edited by dmoneychris; 12-21-2015 at 04:17 PM.
Easy way to check,
Start the car up, let it idle ,then with a multi meter, take a reading at the alternator using the terminal on the back of it under the rubber boot as the positive source, and the body of the alternator as the negative source.
Your looking for 14.6 Volts or higher, and if lower, then could be either a bad alternator, or RFI problems in the electrical system from the spark plug and wires causing the lower voltage problem out of the alternator instead.
Easy way to check,
Start the car up, let it idle ,then with a multi meter, take a reading at the alternator using the terminal on the back of it under the rubber boot as the positive source, and the body of the alternator as the negative source.
Your looking for 14.6 Volts or higher, and if lower, then could be either a bad alternator, or RFI problems in the electrical system from the spark plug and wires causing the lower voltage problem out of the alternator instead.
I am just not smart enough to understand the whole issue with plugs causing alternator issues. I get radio, but not alternator. Guess that's why I manged engineers but never was one!
I still own a timing light, dwell meter and vacuum gauge!
Vacuum gauge is still very useful. Your bringing back the days when GM went from points to "uni-set". Lift the window, insert the allen wrench and adjust the dwell.
Are the stainless plug sleeves for interference,heat or both?
12-20-2015, 05:50 PM
Best Spark Plugs and Wires
