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Real world data of Vararam vs Halltech?

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Old 02-10-2016, 10:19 AM
  #121  
Joe_G
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^^^ Totally understand Suns! I think your observations on IAT while sitting will be a good test for those that do drag race when making their decision.
Old 02-10-2016, 11:48 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
^^^ Totally understand Suns! I think your observations on IAT while sitting will be a good test for those that do drag race when making their decision.
But only with the caveat that the Suns test included cutting 3 large holes in the shroud.

Maybe another test for IAT comparison would be on a bone stock car with, and without, merely a propped shroud. That test could be highly controlled, since the install can be done in 10 minutes to avoid changing conditions. It could also include possible differences in ECT and even if variations existed in the size of the propped opening.
Old 02-10-2016, 12:33 PM
  #123  
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^^^ Tom I think the propped shroud is the best plan with an 08+ blade maf and their great intake (which has a big filter like the Halltech.

Problem is, I don't think you can do that with a Z or a Grand Sport as the front facial will not allow it. It's been a while since I looked but I think I'm correct on that...
Old 02-10-2016, 12:42 PM
  #124  
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Propped shroud???

What is that?
Old 02-10-2016, 12:44 PM
  #125  
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Search for toggle bolt free cold air.
Old 02-10-2016, 01:06 PM
  #126  
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I see now.
Old 02-10-2016, 02:46 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
Search for toggle bolt free cold air.
Hey Joe, the toggle bolt is not a good solution. Besides my experience, I know of a couple others who have had them fall out, due to the design that doesn't allow the bolt to go through the openings on both ends.

Here's the better solution and cheaper too.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1578067852
Old 02-10-2016, 03:13 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
Hey Joe, the toggle bolt is not a good solution. Besides my experience, I know of a couple others who have had them fall out, due to the design that doesn't allow the bolt to go through the openings on both ends.

Here's the better solution and cheaper too.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1578067852
Great solution Tom!

Do you know, can this work with the Z or GS wide grill and front Fascia? They are different than the regular c6 and I seem to remember that this mod won't work with that setup... I could go investigate on my own car I guess...lol
Old 02-10-2016, 10:39 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
Great solution Tom!

Do you know, can this work with the Z or GS wide grill and front Fascia? They are different than the regular c6 and I seem to remember that this mod won't work with that setup... I could go investigate on my own car I guess...lol
The part numbers between the base and GS are different, but I can't imagine the attachment of the shroud (GM calls it a baffle) to the front frame would be at a different location.

Did you have to buy a new shroud when you swapped to a wide body?
Old 02-10-2016, 11:18 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
Hey Joe, the toggle bolt is not a good solution. Besides my experience, I know of a couple others who have had them fall out, due to the design that doesn't allow the bolt to go through the openings on both ends.

Here's the better solution and cheaper too.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1578067852


That's interesting. I'm having a hard time grasping exactly where this prop open. Anybody have any pictures of how it's used?
Old 02-10-2016, 11:44 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
The part numbers between the base and GS are different, but I can't imagine the attachment of the shroud (GM calls it a baffle) to the front frame would be at a different location.

Did you have to buy a new shroud when you swapped to a wide body?
No, I didn't... but somehow if my memory serves the way the shroud attaches to the wide mouth grille doesn't allow the prop mod. I realize as I type that it doesn't make sense but it seems the regular c6 shroud uses push pins into the bumper beam but the GS/Z pushes into the bumper itself so it doesn't have the solid mount to create the gap we are talking about creating.

I'll try to get a look at it on my car, but as I recall it's hard to see. If we had a shop manual diagram I think it'd show what I mean.
Old 02-11-2016, 08:09 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by emoFTW
That's interesting. I'm having a hard time grasping exactly where this prop open. Anybody have any pictures of how it's used?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...gle-bolts.html

Check that thread out, but use HOXXOHS solution instead. I'm going to be giving it a try. I did it with my stock intake and the maf wasn't happy though.
Old 02-11-2016, 09:46 AM
  #133  
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I don't have much time on the halltech, but I can tell you that cruising down the highway and at extended red lights it was two to four degrees above ambient just like the Vararam. On a warm engine, when I stopped at a gas station to fuel up the temperatures were about 17 degrees higher than ambient when I restarted the vehicle and quickly cooled down once I moved. That's either the same above ambient as a Vararam or slightly higher after parking on a hot engine.

Does anyone know how to make the intake air temperature sensor and the gauge on the HVAC unit match perfectly? Because even when I start the car dead cold they are two or three degrees apart.

Last edited by Suns_PSD; 02-11-2016 at 09:48 AM.
Old 02-11-2016, 09:49 AM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by Suns_PSD
I don't have much time on the halltech, because I'm going to get it tuned today but I can tell you that cruising down the highway and at extended red lights it was two to four degrees above ambient just like the Vararam. On a warm engine, when I stopped at a gas station to fuel up the temperatures were about 17 degrees higher than ambient when I restarted the vehicle and quickly cooled down once I moved. That's either the same above ambient as a Vararam or slightly higher after parking on a hot engine.
Does anyone know how to make the intake air temperature sensor and the gauge on the HVAC unit match perfectly? Because even when I start the car dead cold they are two or three degrees apart.
I have never had mine match even with the maf loose under an open hood.
Old 02-11-2016, 10:22 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by Suns_PSD
I don't have much time on the halltech, but I can tell you that cruising down the highway and at extended red lights it was two to four degrees above ambient just like the Vararam. On a warm engine, when I stopped at a gas station to fuel up the temperatures were about 17 degrees higher than ambient when I restarted the vehicle and quickly cooled down once I moved. That's either the same above ambient as a Vararam or slightly higher after parking on a hot engine.

Does anyone know how to make the intake air temperature sensor and the gauge on the HVAC unit match perfectly? Because even when I start the car dead cold they are two or three degrees apart.
The sensors are at different locations, outside air is really low on right side of shroud, maf is a foot away, one has air rushing by it, one doesn't when sitting, and there's lots of hot stuff near the maf.

They never read the same in my experience.
Old 02-11-2016, 12:11 PM
  #136  
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Oh, that is what that sensor is for down on the shroud? I thought it was related to the airbag or something.

I saw once a set of instructions for making those two air temp numbers match perfectly on a cold engine. It required you to go thru your HVAC controls I thought? Not a biggie.
Old 02-11-2016, 12:23 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by Suns_PSD
Oh, that is what that sensor is for down on the shroud? I thought it was related to the airbag or something.

I saw once a set of instructions for making those two air temp numbers match perfectly on a cold engine. It required you to go thru your HVAC controls I thought? Not a biggie.
I think there's a way to adjust the ambient sensor if it's misreading...for sure there is on my wife's Odyssey and I thought you could on the Vette as well... I could be wrong on that. Too lazy to google it. lol

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Old 02-11-2016, 02:19 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
No, I didn't... but somehow if my memory serves the way the shroud attaches to the wide mouth grille doesn't allow the prop mod. I realize as I type that it doesn't make sense but it seems the regular c6 shroud uses push pins into the bumper beam but the GS/Z pushes into the bumper itself so it doesn't have the solid mount to create the gap we are talking about creating.

I'll try to get a look at it on my car, but as I recall it's hard to see. If we had a shop manual diagram I think it'd show what I mean.
My 08 Z06 uses push pins, I replaced them last year
Old 02-11-2016, 02:21 PM
  #139  
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I think there is a close out panel behind the grille below the shroud which doesn't allow what we are tying to do here on a z06 or grand sport.
Old 02-11-2016, 04:52 PM
  #140  
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My car has a gauge that I can view IATs at just a glance.

I just did about 90 miles today with the Halltech. Our temps today are between 81-86 degrees (it's going to be a hot summer!). I was stuck in plenty of traffic over black asphalt plus the car was idled and revved for about 5 minutes while observing an engine scan.

IMO, the Halltech is the same temps as the Vararam while moving, rolling slowly or briefly stopped, but the IATs seems to be warmer than a recall the Vararam being when really stuck idling. The highest I saw was 41 degrees above ambient with the Halltech.

I have not seen the dyno charts but I'm told the Halltech did dyno about 5 hp more with a very powerful 60 mph fan blowing on the car. I hope to get a copy comparing the Vararam and Halltech dynos to post. Dedicated Motorsports specializes in building custom turbo kits that utilize intercoolers so their dyno fan is designed with that in mind and accurately imitates 60 mph speeds. How can an CAI make 5 more hp if the first CAI shows no restriction? I dunno?

To be fair I've only had my car 6 months and only had the Vararam from about October to January (cool months) of this year. On a mid 80 degree day, on dark asphalt, do you guys see 40 degrees above ambient with your Vararams.

I suspect if drag racing during the summer or even light to light the Vararam might offer initially cooler temps and therefore more timing and acceleration.

I prefer the Halltech. It was 5# lighter, it was easier too install and reverse if needed, it looks better, it doesn't block the condensor/ radiator, it makes more hp on the dyno, and it's less likely to ingest dust or water due to it's location and massive filter surface area.


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