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Hey all finished the pining project and alignment but even before alignment the car was doing what I set out to (run straight) been on it several times not one did the back go out the side as it did all the time before, I'm happy as can be also square away the stance a little better.
I just had an issue where the rear of my car was kicking hard right when I spun the tires. Noticed that my left rear tire was worn on the inside. Some new tires and a good alignment and all good again. The rear alignment was out quite a bit.
There is no way to keep the tires from spinning in lower gears other than controlling the throttle. I do that but when I get carried away occasionally, I want the car to go straight.
I'm betting that alignment was your problem the whole time.
I just had an issue where the rear of my car was kicking hard right when I spun the tires. Noticed that my left rear tire was worn on the inside. Some new tires and a good alignment and all good again. The rear alignment was out quite a bit.
There is no way to keep the tires from spinning in lower gears other than controlling the throttle. I do that but when I get carried away occasionally, I want the car to go straight.
I'm betting that alignment was your problem the whole time.
In my case the car was aligned and my tires even across but pulled hard right, as soon as I can have some one take a video for me will post it car is running straight every time.
Below a picture of the control arm after doing driving I would caution not to do at all sense some on here said I would destroy my car, as you see in the pic it looks like it never run at all and no damage or any resemblance of distortion or damage of any kind.
Did triple the screws inboard sense under power rear inner pins will take the blunt as well as the front outer at which point also added one pin below the arm as well. (Note exterior pinning on lower A arms)
Below upper rear control internal pinning I have used for years without fail noise or damage.
Bellow (interior pinning on upper A arms)
Bottom line car runs straight predictable and hooks a whole lot better I enjoy that!
opps lol hey man try to perfect you grammar in someone else's language (like me) and good luck with that!
Don't worry about the grammar...anyone who is paying attention will pretty much figure it out. I could tell English was 2L...I don't have an answer for you other than learn how to peddle the gas. Wide open only works on big trucks and Prius'...hahaha
Don't worry about the grammar...anyone who is paying attention will pretty much figure it out. I could tell English was 2L...I don't have an answer for you other than learn how to peddle the gas. Wide open only works on big trucks and Prius'...hahaha
Every one seems to under estimate my performance challenge resolve is strange I enjoy that.
Is something you mention the Prius my beater is Prius c and I love it, no way to appreciate it till you drive one for 4 or 5 days I can say they give ridiculous mileage but they seem to get a bad wrap because of the drivers not the car, I drive it like any other car and still get 48/50 mpg problem with people who own them is Prius will do 58/60 and even more mpg if you slow down is why the car get's such a bad wrap.
Every one seems to under estimate my performance challenge resolve is strange I enjoy that.
Is something you mention the Prius my beater is Prius c and I love it, no way to appreciate it till you drive one for 4 or 5 days I can say they give ridiculous mileage but they seem to get a bad wrap because of the drivers not the car, I drive it like any other car and still get 48/50 mpg problem with people who own them is Prius will do 58/60 and even more mpg if you slow down is why the car get's such a bad wrap.
I love mine too (regular Prius 3 w/ sunroof and solar). Got 600 miles on one tank just to say I did it.... I normally get 480-500 easily. Have to drive a bit slow to get 600 miles from a tank.
500 miles for a $20 fill up (10 gallon tank @$2/gal) is some cheap driving. And the stereo is great.
I even took mine to the drag strip the first day I got in.
Back on topic, my buddy's car rode terribly when he installed the hard bushings, it clunked and squeaked. Maybe the new bushings are better? This was 10 years ago on a c5. Do you have any clunking or squeaking?
I love mine too (regular Prius 3 w/ sunroof and solar). Got 600 miles on one tank just to say I did it.... I normally get 480-500 easily. Have to drive a bit slow to get 600 miles from a tank.
500 miles for a $20 fill up (10 gallon tank @$2/gal) is some cheap driving. And the stereo is great.
I even took mine to the drag strip the first day I got in.
Back on topic, my buddy's car rode terribly when he installed the hard bushings, it clunked and squeaked. Maybe the new bushings are better? This was 10 years ago on a c5. Do you have any clunking or squeaking?
Your car looks great by the way.
Thanks for your complement Joe I went the pin way to stay away from squeaks and clunks all is just like factory there is really no noticeable clue till extra power goes in car is so much more nimble and predictable did use a lot of silicon bushing grease something you can't do with delrin cause WILL eat them up according to the manufacturer.
If you put your right rear tire up against a curb, then when you floor it just keep the wheel turned slightly right and the car will track straight as an arrow every time. No need to thank me for this tip.
The point loads (from the bolts you installed) on the inner steel sleeve will eventually distort the control arm eyes (aluminum section surrounding the rubber bushing) It might work now, but it's a time bomb. Not to burst your bubble or anything but, the load needs to be evenly distributed. Try again
Is a larger inner sleeve and bushing ID possible? That could remove the point load.
Last edited by 1Hotrodz; 05-26-2016 at 07:59 PM.
Reason: TC
Hey all just want to know what the trick is you did to enjoy a straight running car even while spinning as my 2011 g/s likes to wander sideways unless the traction control is set to control this which is by the way a good and viable option but not my favorite.
Yeah I know there's delrin control arm bushings @ $900. a pop and there's also aluminum and mono ball @ $1800. a set BUT too harsh for a street car, so lets say we eliminate alum delrin and mono ball as far as I know only thing after is polyurethane which is a little more and trust me I know about them just a little more hard then the factory pressed in rubber which we know is inadequate.
I know with enough power the polys will crush just like the oem just give them enough traction and the car will have it's side excursion just like before.
OK I'll be at front I have my trick just want to know about yours, tell me what / how did you do to force you ride straight under heavy load even spinning the drag radials or what other high traction tire you use on the street and still have an other wise unnoticeable yet nice ride that manages to run straight.
I know there's no prolific knowledge about this subject other than what others are doing so what are you doing? will you let your cat out of your control arm bushing bag?
Yeah what's your trick guys there are some clever scholars among us that will not stop short of getting their way, my pics are ready so whip out your bag of tricks and let's share some guys xboostx.
Experience is the trick!
I drive WOT everywhere I go... Just simple turn into it keeping the nose ahead of the rear... feather throttle as needed.
The point loads (from the bolts you installed) on the inner steel sleeve will eventually distort the control arm eyes (aluminum section surrounding the rubber bushing) It might work now, but it's a time bomb. Not to burst your bubble or anything but, the load needs to be evenly distributed. Try again
Is a larger inner sleeve and bushing ID possible? That could remove the point load.
If and when the control arm needs replacing for any reason they can be had for about $150. each parts can be replaced.
Yes the larger inner sleeve is the best ticket just that no one makes it for the c6 it is available for the 04 - 06 gto I used it and what a difference it makes!.
Just to clear up some the pins are screwed to the outer control arm sleeve but the pins are up against the inner tube sleeve which the bolt passes true no-thing gets destroyed here, if anything could ever go bad would be the threads but I'm yet to see a bolt get loose.
05-15-2016, 10:29 PM
Update...
