xBoostx

Hey all just want to know what the trick is you did to enjoy a straight running car even while spinning as my 2011 g/s likes to wander sideways unless the traction control is set to control this which is by the way a good and viable option but not my favorite.

Yeah I know there's delrin control arm bushings @ $900. a pop and there's also aluminum and mono ball @ $1800. a set BUT too harsh for a street car, so lets say we eliminate alum delrin and mono ball as far as I know only thing after is polyurethane which is a little more and trust me I know about them just a little more hard then the factory pressed in rubber which we know is inadequate.

I know with enough power the polys will crush just like the oem just give them enough traction and the car will have it's side excursion just like before.

OK I'll be at front I have my trick just want to know about yours, tell me what / how did you do to force you ride straight under heavy load even spinning the drag radials or what other high traction tire you use on the street and still have an other wise unnoticeable yet nice ride that manages to run straight.

I know there's no prolific knowledge about this subject other than what others are doing so what are you doing? will you let your cat out of your control arm bushing bag?

Yeah what's your trick guys there are some clever scholars among us that will not stop short of getting their way, my pics are ready so whip out your bag of tricks and let's share some guys xboostx.

icntdrv55

Based on your question and the fact that you specified 'street', I'm gonna guess it's mostly a problem with the crown of the road and not necessarily a fault of your car. Not many roads are laid out perfectly flat and level; they're always crowned from the center line to the curb to aid in water run-off. Plus, you surely understand that the physics of an accelerating vehicle mean one tire is more heavily loaded that the other.

GS057

I think he is talking about loosing traction in first under heavy acceleration.

xBoostx

I get it with roads not been flat and one tire heavier chassis flex and other possible variants but when the mechanical side of the equation is properly addressed even going by street drains (must incline area) the car should track straight oh yes I'm in hot water now you'll say yes my previous ride when I got it rite was a delight how you may have got it rite is my open question, I get it there maybe few answers here but there's got a be some I hope.

HOXXOH

Keep in mind that drag radials are by design, intended to be used at the drag strip, not on the street. Since I only use my DR's at the track, I have no suggestions for street use. However, I get wide variations in traction on street tires on the street and compensate when necessary by backing off the power and/or steering corrections. I don't street race, but I do play a bit when other cars are not around.

EvanZR1

Are you by any chance running Michelin tires? If you're talking about the car tracking straight or wanting to wander and follow grooves/ruts/etc, then the biggest difference you can make is in the tires. The stock Goodyears (both the F1s and the F1:G2s) track straight and don't try to follow grooves/ruts too badly. The Michelin PS2s will follow even the slightest rut like bloodhound on a scent. I switched from the GY F1:G2s to PS2s and noticed this immediately, and then noticed immediately that the issue disappeared when I went to GY F1s. This relates primarily to the front tires in normal driving, but it can also be impacted by the rears when hammering it if the tire is prone to wanting to follow every little groove in the road. I really noticed this on my PS2s once I was making 600RW. I didn't notice it when the car was stock, but I'm not sure if it wasn't there or it just wasn't enough to worry me. Once I was at the higher HP, they would give a little side-to-side shimmy when I hammered it at highway speeds. I've seen people have the same issue but more pronounced with the new Michelin PSSs. Was following my buddy with a blown GS (running PSSs) one day when he hammered it, and it looked like a dog wagging it's tail. He didn't have the issue with NT05Rs he had, and ended up switching to RE11s and the issue disappeared. When I got rid of my PS2s and went to two sets of rears (GY F1s for trips, and ContiForceContact DOT track tires for around town), I immediately noticed the behavior disappeared on mine. I had been debating all the same things as you (delrin, mono ball, etc) thinking it was suspension issue, when it really turned out to be a tire issue.

Even if you're not running Michelins, it may be worth trying a different set/brand of tires before spending lots of money on the suspension. My car with 672RW running GY F1s on the front and the ContiForce on the rear is perfectly streetable, has a comfortable ride, doesn't follow ruts, and tracks straight when I get on it. Of course I still have to deal with limited traction in 1st & 2nd (1st is useless for more than 1/2 throttle, 2nd I can't get above about 1/2-2/3 throttle), and of course the car has to be pointed straight when hammering the throttle. For that matter even when running the GY F1s in the rear, all of that is still pretty much true as long as I modulate the throttle and don't hammer WOT in 1st-3rd.

xBoostx

Very good HXH I don't say or deny what I do on the street but when I like to feel the power I build into my car I do when all is clear on occasion and if I can't use first or second gear is time to do something about it so the reason for this thread, thanks for your input.

xBoostx

Very good point when you say (the car has to be pointed straight) this key to running straight and for safety purposes which is our absolute responsibility.

Your level of power is ideal for a light street car and a very good power level and is these levels that require fine tuning to make it usable.

As I read true your post about all the different tire you experienced and learned about their behavior I was highly hopeful you had found a great combination do deal with the level of load but when you mention tours the end of your post your first and second been useless above 3/4 throttle, that validates there's something more to work on.

At list for me I like to dead hook at list rolling in mid first gear cause that's where I can appreciate what I've done and enjoy it.

First I realize some are good with not been able to use 1st and 2nd wide open as for me? I have to have it!

I'm presently using Nitto nto5r 345/30/19 and they were really satisfactory till I changed the diff and gears from 2.73 to 3.42 these combination sends the Nitto to spin by rule still I must get past this.

I'm in a quest to keep the car from lounging back side out at full load on the crown of the street, usually this is not as bad when carrying a passenger as the rear tires are more evenly loaded still if and when I can keep the rear control arm bushings from crushing under load the car will have no incentive to lounge sideways.

Here's the thing, the split second the car lounges off to one side traction is out of control simultaneously even when the tire is appropriate for the power level applied.

The instant a rear control arm bushings on one side is crushed more then the one across on the other side, we have a rear steering acting to trow the car rear into a side.

More then 60% of the times the must crushed bushing is the one with the must load on it's tire (the drivers side) and because the crush is tours the direction the bushing is pressed (to the front) that! induces a right turn initiated from the rear suspension, this is the subject of this thread and so the quest is on to bring up a solution, perhaps I believe the Nittos in my car will be back in business ones the control arms are installed back in, I should keep you in the loop with action video.

In the mean time I'm still asking for others to pitch in with a possible tried and true solution that might exist out there, road racers are likely to be in on one of the best and available solution which are all discarded in this thread in favor of a smooth and quiet running street car suspension that can handle the power level well above 500 rwhp and still track straight with traction, control way safer then we have without a solution or are we? xboostx.

rjacobs

I can hardly follow your ridiculous writing style.

Learn to drive aka steer the car when you get wheel spin and you wont have problems. Also learn to pedal the car a little and not just smash her wide open and rely on the traction control to control things.

Its not all in the suspension bushings compressing at different rates.

A big reason the car tends to step out to the drivers side is gyroscopic precession. Put a force in and it acts 90 degrees from where you put that force in. It can cause wheels to do all kinds of weird things and pull and push in weird directions. Its typically recognized that the force you put into a wheel happens at the top of the wheel and thus what ever its going to do happens on the front of the wheel(90 degrees forward of the top) as the car goes down the road. We, in this car, dont have really big issues with this, but talk to guys who run big trucks and jeeps with big tires which direction there rig pulls under acceleration due to torque steer. The answer will almost always be "to the drivers side".

Todds427

Let off the gas until the car straightens out, then push the pedal down SLOWER and you will stay pointed the right direction!

Not So Fast

HUH ???

xBoostx

opps lol hey man try to perfect you grammar in someone else's language (like me) and good luck with that!

xBoostx

Seems some are happy pedaling and using traction control steering and ?

Poor traction is not an issue for some as for me is a challenge and requires doing something about it, tires are important but a vehicle to support their capability got a have it.

when you let go the gas even for a split second or lift hah you lose even more momentum like you already admit been out of control so obviously is OK for you, so that's what a fast car is build for let a slower one go rite past you? ha ha.

My previous build project was a different platform and did not have the advantage of mid transmission and torque converter was very light in the back, had smaller tires and yet in my tuners own words the acceleration on that car was ridiculous.

Before addressing the traction problems an '06 gto at mid track I was barely hanging on and the car loved going to center line with bias ply tires and shinnies after I got a grip of the traction woes went back to the track and the car tracked straight as on rails was a joy and very easy to drive.

The tires in that car for the street was Nitto nto5 315/30/18 I believe the Nitto nto5r are a little better and with what I consider a better car I should do as list as well.

Not working on having a pedal fest but rather on keeping it flat out while tracking straight and holing A.

Still looking for somebody else with an alternative to "pedal fest"

I have my solution worked out on both of my rear lower control arms and are finished, starting Tuesday will be working on the not nearly as important rear uppers but there's contribution to be had from them as well.

I'm going to visit my aircraft machine shop body to see if we can have an easier solution worked out for for the pedal fest gang that will not be nearly as labor intensive, will let you in on how that goes.

Today's thought...
The optimist always have a plan the pessimist always have a excuse. xboostx.

Not So Fast

Comeonman, don't take offense, just telling it like it is. Your thoughts written down in pen are somewhat confusing you have to admit
NSF

rjacobs

You dont understand my "pedal it comment".

IM not saying go from WOT to no pedal constantly, thats a recipe for disaster because you will end up like most mustangs and right into the ****ing wall.

Im saying DONT GO WOT immediately. Learn to drive the damn car. As you accelerate faster get into more pedal. Pedal follows RPM and speed. It takes a lot of practice to get it right.

You cant just smash the gas and expect good results. It doesnt work that way.


And if you have a solution to keep a 500+ whp, 3100lb car from spinning the tires, why dont you just ****ing share it instead if this inane ruminating that you are currently doing. You disagree with what everybody is saying, yet you wont share your "secret" or your "ideas". Its like when somebody has a problem and somebody says "I sent you a PM" instead of sharing a possible solution for EVERYBODY TO SEE.

promocop

Try the Skip Barber school

Suns_PSD

Aggressive alignment, R888s in the rear, judicious use of throttle pedal.

Good luck!

HOXXOH

If you're not proficient or capable at rolling into the throttle, then buy a Vitesse controller and experiment with the eco settings until you find what works for you. It's just that simple.

xBoostx

Thanks all for inputs I can see what you are all doing to cope with the wild horsies hopefully we can harness the power and make better use of it and yes mashing to the floor as low a speed as possible and hooking up is the objective other wise we wouldn't be looking forward to anything here.

Not by any means oppose to doing what we must to control the car.

rjacobs

That video has NOTHING to do with what you are talking about. Although I dont really think you know what you are talking about either so I guess the video makes sense.