Got uid0

Need some opinions here

Replaced battery with yellow top 2 months ago
Recently had code p0723 set output shaft speed sensor circuit intermittent.

I removed the battery cable to reset the code to troubleshoot if i have a bad output shaft sensor. The code has not returned after a day or 2 driving.

New problems surface today. I am going about 20 mph and hit one of the gauge buttons. Service active handling, service abs, service traction system all set immediately when attempting to view tire pressure. Car about stalls when this event was triggered.

Watching the battery voltage after this i had a range of 13.2-5 while sitting at lights.

I stopped and had a shop hook up a tester to the battery and everything passed. Highway speeds it stayed at 14v but in the driveway it was back to 13.5v

Due to all of the recent codes could this simply be an inconsistent alternator causing all of the codes?

Failing EBCM ? Cam Sensor ? Plug wires do not appear burnt.

Mods
G6x3 cam
3200 Stall
Tuned
Cow Booster


Battery Test 12.91v
measured 1078 CCA
rated 620 cca
temp 84f

cranking
voltage 11.93v
time 2.34s

no load 14.05v 2000 rpms
loaded 13.96v 2000 rpms

AORoads

Did you use a Tech2 after the car did its stalling to see if any codes were thrown? Sometimes, the code tells what systems to look at, not what part is the actual problem.

timd38

I have an underdrive crank pulley and had similar issues and since I worked for Optima Batteries at the time (since retired), did some testing and found that the alternator output was lacking and replaced it with a Billet Tech and the problem went away.

Just because your alternator shows voltage, doesn't mean it has amperage. So check the amperage output.

JUst another opinion.

cclive

I think that based on your voltage measurments, the alt and batt are fine. Anything over 13 at idle means the alt is working well. I would certainly check and re-seat the two big blue connectors in the under-carpet fuse box at the passenger foorwell. I would also make sure that all eight spark plug wires are fully seated. If one comes loose, it can cause absolute havoc. If they do not get burned...they can come loose though.

Rjhctrapp

So voltage is the electrical pressure, current is the amperage flow. You could have sufficient pressure with low flow. See if someone can put a current measure on it to make sure you have good current flow. All the electrical issues coming up at once, in my experience has lead to a battery issue whether loose or bad connection, most often bad ground connection. Check the main grounds.

timd38

Those OE clamps can cause an issue.

Got uid0

Thank you all.

Dano523

Just remember that what the dash anolog and DIC voltage is telling you, is the voltage to the BCM and ECM.


So with a voltage meter and the car idling,

Take a reading on the alternator itself. Hence positive probe of the meter on the back terminal under the rubber cap on the back of the alternator, and the negative probe on the body of the alternator. The voltage you are looking for is around 14.7 volts.

Next take a reading at the battery terminals. The voltage you are looking for is 14.6v (.1 drop from the alternator itself). If the voltage between the two is way different, then you have a problem in the battery cables; being either the positive through the starter, then to the alternator, or the ground wire off the battery to the engine block just above the starter.

Now get a reading of the DIC itself. The voltage should be around 14.2 or greater (about a .3 drop from the alternator), and if you have wide difference here from the battery or alternator, then the problem is between the engine fuse block, to the EBM or ECM instead.

Again, the dash is not telling you the voltage at it, but instead since the dash is feed digital information to display these readings, telling you the voltage of the ECM and BCM instead.

So alternator could be good, the battery and its charging cables good, and the problem from the engine fuse block down line the problem isntead.