battery relocation
#1
battery relocation
great DIY, I just did this in 4 hours i made a few changes:
1) i modified the oem battery terminals, the (-) got bolted to the engine using a 9/16 bolt
2) the new 0 gauge wire got bolted to the origional (+) terminal and wrapped in insulation
3) i routed the (+) wire withing the rear foot well and through the air vent and into the trunk area behind the carpet
I also did not reinforce the compartment
1) i modified the oem battery terminals, the (-) got bolted to the engine using a 9/16 bolt
2) the new 0 gauge wire got bolted to the origional (+) terminal and wrapped in insulation
3) i routed the (+) wire withing the rear foot well and through the air vent and into the trunk area behind the carpet
I also did not reinforce the compartment
i know this is old but im researching all these posts about batt relocation,,,about to do it in my c6...
I cant understand item no. 2 -- "got bolted to original terminal (+)",,,
did you splice the new positive cable into the original oem postive battery cable???
cant understand item no. 3 --" rear foot well and through the air vent"..??? ,,,,what???
can anybody answer??? i pmd sinisterc6
#2
Batt mod don
So after many pms to several of you i was able to finish this mod and it worked perfectly. I did make changes to what had been done making it even easier to do,, and btw it CRANCKED!!! Hope this helps someone trying to do this. Btw i did this to allow for a bigger SC coolant reservoir box where the battery was. I have an eforce SC. Many thx to realcanuk, drivinfast and sinisterc6 members for answering all my pms.
I chose to run the pos canl thru the rubber grommet in firewall. I used a clotheshanger wire first then cut the spot with an exacto knife. Then fed cable thru. Wd40 does wonnders when feeding cable thru
Cable comes out right above the pass side footwell above the fuse box
Then took pass seat off and fed the cable under carpet and to the back pass corner cubie box
Upfront i opted to leave the stock oem batt harness in place just bc i figured taking cables if starter looked pretty tight with headers in car. So i just cut off the oem post terminal and spliced in the new and oem cables with this alum coupler i got from Lowes. Added a few drops of locktite in threads and tighten them up. Felt really good and tight connection
Then wrapped it in elec wire tape
Then use a large shrink wrap tube over it. For the neg cable i left it up front not connected. Just abandoned it in place. I tuked it behind battery tray
In the back for the neg cable i drilled a bigger hole in the frame and installed a ss 3/8" bolt with star washers and bolt it to it. Theres a small hole at the bottom of the frame where u can feed the bolt thru. I used a magnet extension rod and fell right in place. Then i used a wrench to hold it from the inside while i thightened from the outside. Used locktite there also. Its tricky but doable. This is another member's picture.
I chose to run the pos canl thru the rubber grommet in firewall. I used a clotheshanger wire first then cut the spot with an exacto knife. Then fed cable thru. Wd40 does wonnders when feeding cable thru
Cable comes out right above the pass side footwell above the fuse box
Then took pass seat off and fed the cable under carpet and to the back pass corner cubie box
Upfront i opted to leave the stock oem batt harness in place just bc i figured taking cables if starter looked pretty tight with headers in car. So i just cut off the oem post terminal and spliced in the new and oem cables with this alum coupler i got from Lowes. Added a few drops of locktite in threads and tighten them up. Felt really good and tight connection
Then wrapped it in elec wire tape
Then use a large shrink wrap tube over it. For the neg cable i left it up front not connected. Just abandoned it in place. I tuked it behind battery tray
In the back for the neg cable i drilled a bigger hole in the frame and installed a ss 3/8" bolt with star washers and bolt it to it. Theres a small hole at the bottom of the frame where u can feed the bolt thru. I used a magnet extension rod and fell right in place. Then i used a wrench to hold it from the inside while i thightened from the outside. Used locktite there also. Its tricky but doable. This is another member's picture.