Judd G

I plan on adding and upgraded thermostat in the near future to my 2010 GS. I see a 160 degree is what is recommended. What is the best brand/maker? I would like to use the best one possible. Any suggestions? Is there anything else I should know or take into consideration when installing a new thermostat? Thanks!

cwylie

Why are changing it to 160? I just changed mine and the fan have a lot more do with the running temp than the thermostat.

Judd G

That doesn't come close to answering my question but to answer yours....
That is what is recommended for a modification that I'm going to have done--Chuck's cow booster

CMY SIX

I just put in a 180 degree and added redline water wetter and more water then antifreeze not sure how much but I'm more then 50% water, took a trip down the highway and the temps just kept going down, on the way home it stayed at 174 with a 194 oil temp{DeWitts rad with oil cooler} any one else have these results with a 160?

dennis50nj

yes i have a 160n for 9 years now stock radiator and in the 150s range going down the road most of the year and in the low 170s high 160s in 95 degree temps also stays at 181 on idle even if you idle an hour and oil temp has reached 230 and trans 190 depending on how hard i thrash it with those water temps

Dano523

The 160 will drop your temps to about 185* during cruising only. As soon as you get on the motor, it going to climb back up to normal opt range instead.

So with the lower opt temp during cruse, the first hit will get you a little more power for a second or two, but once you are into the meat of the motor for a few seconds, the 160 stat is doing nothing.

The downfall to the 160 stat is during cold weather, and where some of them open up much lower than 160, and this can cold shock the motor isntead.

So if your looking to drop the working temps of the motor as a constant, then it will take a better radiator, and better radiator Fan and controller isntead.
Note, you can change the stock fan setting to try to pull the heat down that way, but your going to end up just burning the fan and PWM out a lot faster instead.

dennis50nj

I strongly disagree. My first mod was the 160 highflow stat, was done in 2005 with a Cartek fan module, it allows the fan to come on 100% at 181 degrees it will take it down to 176 then shut off, the temp will rise to 181 and the fan will come back on. at speed it will drop into the 158, have to put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to get heat, as if you have the heater on it will get colder in the lower 150's, I have hot lapped the car 5 runs in a row and it will go back to 160s - 170 then reach 183 on burnout then drop to 181 on starting line then rise to 190s on the pass, drop on the return and do it all over again for at least over 500 passes at the track, thats been over 10 years of data and 40,000 miles same fan never problem with the connector, half the problem with the connector and headlight relay is high under hood temps, which I have had none. because my temps are low. plus that is with a worked motor that puts out 492 RWHP threw an automatic with a high 3800 rpm converter and 373 gears, that shifts at 7200 rpm. had to edit because I didnt want to leave this out, also I have a hayden 12x12 trans cooler dead center bottom in front of the AC rad and jammed in behind a Vararam blocking it all, and those temps I stated are gospel

xBoostx

The ls engines make more power running cooler so when on the dyno is best to start out at about 140 after previous run it is therefore assume will do better in sprint competition to start lower than 180 temps for best results and it does.

ECM often pulls back ignition timing to control knock at wide open throttle this condition more often found on a properly tuned engine when temps start getting past 190 degrees, nothing is wrong when ignition timing is pulled back but it costs power loss so yes to 160 Stat.

In the cold months heat soak is not a problem and cooler air intake temps allows running warmer stats without the engine timing pull back condition found in warmer weather alse's running your heater will farther help cooling system so a warmer Stat is in as part of winterizing.

CMY SIX

Thank you! I have not seen these lower temps, having just put a mild cam in my temps were running a little higher then normal and I thought I was running a little lean. I going to my tuner on Weds. and decided to put the thermostat in to have every thing done at once. the other day I almost thought the temp sensor went bad because of the lower temps

realcanuk

There is no logical reason that a 160 stat alone will make a car run cooler in the long run. It will make it take longer to get hot for sure.
When combining with changing fan settings is where some improvement should be seen.

Cherokee Nation

Sativa

I got this one from Lingenfelter, been in my car for 6 years and works great: http://www.lingenfelter.com/product/...l#.VzkXEb5H4hs

dennis50nj

yes it will make it run cooler as long as you have the airflow of movement go threw the radiator, but you need to have the fan settings turn the fan on sooner at a higher percent for idle and traffic conditions stop and go, I ran freezing cold with the stock water pump, but the ewp helped warm better at higher rpm but cooler at lower rpm as the ewp pump spins faster at low rpm and the factory pump spins slower at low rpm. I also drilled the tstat per ewp instructions.

realcanuk

My point was that a 160 stat, with no they changes will not make a car run cooler. That's all.

dennis50nj

My point is it will with no other changes at speed but not at idle, the stock fan settings wont come on any sooner or go off any sooner, it will take longer to reach idle temp, but once you are driving at speed no stopping it will run cooler. now turn defroster on and it will run cooler and give you extra time at idle in stop and go traffic

realcanuk

I agree it will take longer to warm up. Assuming the 160 or the stock stat are both open while cruising, how could it make any difference. Open is open !

dennis50nj

Open is open you are 100% right, the 160 stat opens at 160* the other opens at 196* or 180* thats why they are called those temp statsso the stat doesn't open until that temp if the fan doesn't come on until 205 they will all reach 205 doesn't mater when it opens yes it will take longer to reach temp with the 160 stat, but now you have air flow from driving, that air flow is the same as setting your fan to come on at 181 100% which mine does, then shuts off at 176 maybe, so the temps stay between those numbers at idle, now if i drive 60 mph i have more airflow and it doesnt turn off at 176 it stays on all the time taking me down to 158, now that is the capacity of the stock radiator, the BTU would change with more rpm of wide open or higher rpm say driving 90 at 3500 rpm with the automatic. I hope this explains

realcanuk

Got ya now. I thought a stock was 180. My car has been boosted for so long and it never gets lower than that. I guess on a stock or bolt on car it could, and that would be the difference.

Judd G

Thank you. I will check out Lingenfelter. I think you're the only person who suggested a brand to me and that's one of the questions that I had initially asked. Does anyone else have a brand suggestion? And the item that I planned on adding is the COW booster that is advertised & sold on this website. Anyone have any experiences with that? It is recommended that I add a 160 degree thermo when I add the COW booster--Does anyone here know the reasoning behind that?

realcanuk

Lot of people seem very happy with the COW booster. I know that Chuck is a big proponent of 160 stats when he does tunes. I don't know why it would be of benefit if only doing the booster. I would just call and ask him.