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I have a brand new 6.2L 416 stroker with forged internals that I bought from a vendor on here. I also have newTFS Gen X heads. I only have about 1500 miles on it but it seems like it is burning oil? I've changed oil every 500 miles so far and getting ready to change it again but in between changes I've had to add a quart+. I use my paddle shifting a lot also.
My mechanic said it could be bad valve seal, problem with new motor or that i need catch can because of the paddle shifting. Should I be burning this much oil? Should I contact either or both vendors(motor & heads) about my oil consumption?
Last edited by Columbia Corvette; 07-10-2016 at 11:54 AM.
There have been reports of valve seals riding up on the guide so it's possible your mechanic is right on that account.
Also, if the engine builder did not seal the rocker bolts threads, as the holes maybe exposed to the intake ports on your after market heads, this could lead to oil consumption.
I would most definitely call the people that sold you the engine/heads for advice.
Last edited by extrapilot; 07-10-2016 at 10:17 PM.
There have been reports of valve seals riding up on the guide so it's possible your mechanic is right on that account.
Also, if the engine builder did not seal the rocker bolts threads, as the holes maybe exposed to the intake ports on your after market heads, this could lead to oil consumption.
I would most defiantly call the people that sold you the engine/heads for advice.
I'm gonna guess with the no thread locker on bolts. Right after i picked up the car, i wasn't 5 minutes away, one of the rockers slid off the valve and i had to turn around to have him fix it.
I just bought a torque wrench and #6 hex head (allen) socket to tighten them. I had thread locker too. You know what the specs are for tightening down the rocker bolts? He told me but i forgot. I can search also if you don't know. these were assembled heads when i bought them so should i contact the vendor? see my sig for details of heads.
Last edited by Columbia Corvette; 07-10-2016 at 07:07 PM.
If you have the valve covers off, you may want to check the valve seals to make sure they are still on correctly. You should be able to see them through the springs.
22 Lb Ft toque for the rockers.
Here's a torque list for the LS engines
If you have the valve covers off, you may want to check the valve seals to make sure they are still on correctly. You should be able to see them through the springs.
22 Lb Ft toque for the rockers.
Here's a torque list for the LS engines
When you torque the rockers down, the lifter needs to be on the base circle of the cam for the rocker you are tightening. You don't want to be tightening it when the cam has the valve open, or the torque on the bolt may not be correct, and cause it to come loose again.
OK. I think I solved the oil burning problem. At least for the most part.
For some odd reason i was thinking those big jugs of oil were 5 qts. Were they ever that many? So here's the math. 1 jug + 1 qt is not enough. Add whole jug and most of another. Checked oil level and it's fine now. I'll keep you guys posted.
Somehow i remember those jugs being 5 qts and not 4. Ok just got answer to my dilemma..
Mobil 1 has 5 qt jugs but i am still breaking in my new engine and my mechanic. recommended Rotella T 15W40 jugs are only a gallon!.
OK. I think I solved the oil burning problem. At least for the most part.
For some odd reason i was thinking those big jugs of oil were 5 qts. Were they ever that many? So here's the math. 1 jug + 1 qt is not enough. Add whole jug and most of another. Checked oil level and it's fine now. I'll keep you guys posted.
Somehow i remember those jugs being 5 qts and not 4. Ok just got answer to my dilemma..
Mobil 1 has 5 qt jugs but i am still breaking in my new engine and my mechanic. recommended Rotella T 15W40 jugs are only a gallon!.
Yeah but didn't you check your oil level when you initially changed your oil??
OK. I think I solved the oil burning problem. At least for the most part.
For some odd reason i was thinking those big jugs of oil were 5 qts. Were they ever that many? So here's the math. 1 jug + 1 qt is not enough. Add whole jug and most of another. Checked oil level and it's fine now. I'll keep you guys posted.
Somehow i remember those jugs being 5 qts and not 4. Ok just got answer to my dilemma..
Mobil 1 has 5 qt jugs but i am still breaking in my new engine and my mechanic. recommended Rotella T 15W40 jugs are only a gallon!.
in my 06 it takes 6 quarts to put it on the upper most fill line, and I'll get flamed for this but did you break it in with dino oil or syn? during break-in it will burn some oil until the rings seat it will take longer with syn
in my 06 it takes 6 quarts to put it on the upper most fill line, and I'll get flamed for this but did you break it in with dino oil or syn? during break-in it will burn some oil until the rings seat it will take longer with syn
The engine came with break in oil. The Joe Gibbs stuff. But my mechanic had it for the first 100 miles and changed oil then. He recommended Rotella T 15w40( yes this is only a gallon jug). I've changed the oil at 500 miles and 2000 miles ( total) on new engine. Next oil change @ 3000 miles more (total 5000 miles on new engine) but going to Mobil 1 10W40 is what he recommends. This shop only works on LS engines. He knows his stuff. All rockers were still at torque. I think i am going to get catch can. I use the paddle shifting often and with some of the downshifting I am sure there is oils going in that direction.
I checked the rockers and they were tight.But i guess i misread what you guys said. It said to use Teflon thread sealer. Is that the same as Thread locker? Neither of which I have done yet. I did install oil catch can also but have not checked contents. indicator in side shows no oil but oil may be too thick to show up in there.
I checked oil thursday night and it was low so I filled it. Went racing friday night and Saturday morning my check oil light came on. needed about two qts. filled to top of cross hatch.
Engine paperwork says no warranty and I got the engine from a vendor on here, SDPC. I contacted my salesman and he still hasnt replied.
Any other ideas guys?
I checked the rockers and they were tight.But i guess i misread what you guys said. It said to use Teflon thread sealer. Is that the same as Thread locker? Neither of which I have done yet. I did install oil catch can also but have not checked contents. indicator in side shows no oil but oil may be too thick to show up in there.
I checked oil thursday night and it was low so I filled it. Went racing friday night and Saturday morning my check oil light came on. needed about two qts. filled to top of cross hatch.
Engine paperwork says no warranty and I got the engine from a vendor on here, SDPC. I contacted my salesman and he still hasnt replied.
Any other ideas guys?
You need to be checking the oil level much more often, if you are finding it 2 qts low, or you're going to end up with severe engine damage. Until you get the consumption under control, you need to check it every time you fill it up with fuel.
No, thread locker isn't the same as Teflon thread sealant. You ONLY need thread sealant, if the porting on the heads gets into the rocker bolt boss. I don't know if this happens on Trick Flow GenX heads or not.
Thought maybe that the rocker hole down bolts holes are not blind like stockers, hence the need for sealant.
But I think he needs to have the heads inspected for valve seals that could slip up on the guides.
The engine came with break in oil. The Joe Gibbs stuff. But my mechanic had it for the first 100 miles and changed oil then. He recommended Rotella T 15w40( yes this is only a gallon jug). I've changed the oil at 500 miles and 2000 miles ( total) on new engine. Next oil change @ 3000 miles more (total 5000 miles on new engine) but going to Mobil 1 10W40 is what he recommends. This shop only works on LS engines. He knows his stuff. All rockers were still at torque. I think i am going to get catch can. I use the paddle shifting often and with some of the downshifting I am sure there is oils going in that direction.
Did you, your engine builder, or your tuner come up with that drain interval? I have a little over 1000 miles on my rebuilt stroker and was wondering if I should follow a similar schedule. As of now it was broken in on dino oil for the first 500 miles and is now on 10w30 synthetic (unsure of brand) I plan on going with Amsoil 10w30 Zrod synthetic for the next change and from then on. So far I have no burning oil issues but I'll be watching it closely, along with this thread.
Did you, your engine builder, or your tuner come up with that drain interval? I have a little over 1000 miles on my rebuilt stroker and was wondering if I should follow a similar schedule. As of now it was broken in on dino oil for the first 500 miles and is now on 10w30 synthetic (unsure of brand) I plan on going with Amsoil 10w30 Zrod synthetic for the next change and from then on. So far I have no burning oil issues but I'll be watching it closely, along with this thread.
My mechanic came up with that plan. He's worked on several forum vehicles and does good work. He specifically works on Ls based vehicles so I trust him.
OK. Following some recommendations from members. I purchased some thread sealer with Teflon. I followed directions on bottle. Cleaned and dried rocker bolts before putting on the Teflon. Wiped off excess and re assembled. checked oil and it looked like it hasn't used much oil but added some oil to a good reference point and I'll monitor oil consumption. I also added some dielectric grease to the plug wires at the coil end before attaching them to the coils. I know you're supposed to add it to the plug end but didn't know about this end. I'll keep everyone posted.
Last edited by Columbia Corvette; 08-06-2016 at 08:21 PM.
Reason: spelling.
Did you actually check the rocker bosses to see if they were blind or through holes? If they were blind, the thread sealer won't matter, as it is impossible for oil to leak through.
07-10-2016, 11:54 AM
Burning oil.
