plasticsman57

Hello,

I have posted on here before with great results, and after a year of problems I was hoping that if I posted again, maybe someone would be able to possibly help me.

I have a 2012 Carlisle Blue 2D Coupe, and I have loved the car until April 2015 when my original battery died and the dealer replaced it under warranty. Since then it has been a nightmare with this car. I pulled out of the dealership and stopped to get gas, and when I opened the drivers door the window went down 1/8" and did not go back up when the door was closed. I called the dealer and he told me how to calibrate the windows. They worked fine as he explained that when the battery died the computer lost it's memory. OK, easy no problems until intermittently the windows would continue going out of calibration. The dealer was finally able to duplicate it, and they said the battery was bad, so the put another battery in the car. All was good for a month, then the windows would act up again. The dealer replaced the window power buttons, door handles, etc., with no final fix. Then the car began throwing codes, active handling, traction, abs, and air bag. The codes would go away after restarting the car, and there were no record of the codes in the computer when checked.
The car was in and out of the dealer for weeks as they tried to find the problem. Finally in April of this year (1 year of problems) the dealer said that the battery was bad again ( 3rd battery). At this point, I started recording my volts in the morning prior to starting the car, and recording any codes, and the volts when I parked the car at night. I used the computer digital volt meter to do this. I know it's not the best method, as testing the battery directly would be better, but it was easier to use the dash meter and it would at least provide a trend.

After the 3rd battery the codes went away, and the morning volts always read 12.1-12.2. After a month or so, the volts started to show 11.9-12.0. Then dropping to 11.7, and as low as 10.7 at one point. During the running of the car the Volts read 14.4 or slightly less, and at night the battery volts were always 12.0 or so. When the car volts were at 10.7, the car battery was totally dead with in two days of that reading. Even the car FOB wouldn't work, I had to release the rear hatch via the FOB manual key to gain access to the engine for GM roadside to jump the car. Took the car back to GM, they charged the battery and put a volt meter on the battery. They kept the car a week and the battery didn't loose anything during that period. I did tell them about a pop noise in the steering wheel and they said yes they heard it, and that GM had a bulletin about a noise and per GM I needed a new steering colum which is on national back order. The car was good for about a month and then the volts began dropping again as I monitored them daily. During the periods where the volts were dropping, the car would throw codes, but clear when restarted and the dealer said that was due to a low battery. Last week I notice the volts at 11.2, and yes two days later the car was dead again. When started NO maps lights on, or any other device was left on to drain the battery.

The car is back at the dealer again, and this time after 1 week of monitoring they are seeing the volts dropping. I am to get an update on Monday 7/25/16. I have documented the crap out of this and the dealer said it's like looking for a needle in a haystack. They did say that their are many wires in the steering colum and that could be my problem, but with the part being on National back order I don't know when I will receive it. To date it's been ordered for 6 weeks.

My car now has 39K miles and prior to the car going out of warranty I opened a case with GM, and gave them a letter of what has been going on with my car. My concern was that once out of warranty this repair problem could become very expensive. GM gave me an additional 30K miles or 24 months of full Bumper to Bumper warranty for my peace of mind. That was good at the time when I thought we could get this figured out quickly, but now after 2 months and still nothing I opened another case and asked for options incase the dealer couldn't find the problem. I can't take this car anyplace with out worry of it not starting, and the options shutting down, ABS brakes, traction control etc. GM after 5 weeks finally got back to me and said that since I accepted their offer of the extended warranty, they were not willing to provide any other compensaition. I had asked for additional money for my problem and I would trade my car for a C7. Nope nothing more. I gave them an ear full and said that I would just get my attorney to file for lemon law plus damages. I really didn't want to get a C7 as I do actually love my Carlisle blue vette. I know most vette people do not like the color, but I do, and I like having a car that isn't like all the other vettes driving around.

Anyway I know that was a long message, but does anyone have any ideas, or are experiencing the same of similar problems.

Thanks

Greg

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RicK T

Something is draining the battery when the car is parked.

It really isn't rocket science, just time. They need to do a drain / draw test over a period of time after the car is shut down and maybe even overnight in case something is turning on after the normal shut down cycle.

It has been a pretty common problem on these cars so most dealers should be able to do the testing. If they say they have done the test, post their results here.

extrapilot

You my want to try another dealer. The problem should not be to hard to find and isolate it down to a particular circuit that's draining the battery. By checking the current draw and pulling fuses one by one, they could narrow things down rather quickly.

Dano523

Yep, when you shut the car down, it should go into sleep mode, and only draw very little power, and so little in fact, that the car should not drain the battery down for around 3 weeks (reason that you put the car on a battery tender if you are not going to drive it for more than about 3 days).


So either the car is not going into sleep mode, or when it sleep mode, one of the modules is still fully awake and drawing major power to drain the battery over night instead.


As stated, easy enough to figure out, since you just put a meter on the battery to determine amperage dray, and start pulling fuses one at a time until the meter drops back down to the normal sleep mode draw instead. Once you have the circuit figured out, it will tell you what module is on that circuit, and what module needs to be corrected or replaced so it goes into sleep mode with the rest of the modules when the car is shut down.


As for all the fuses pulled and still have a major amperage draw, then you have a short in the wiring, and chances are its the positive battery wire off the back of the motor on the passenger back of head side, where it drops down to the starter solenoid behind the motor.

sevinn

It sounds like you have a pretty accommodating dealer and GM stepped up by extending your warranty so good on your for documenting everything.

The previous posters are correct though; a draw test needs to be done. Watching the voltage drop isn't helping them find the problem and throwing parts at it probably won't fix it.

Got uid0

i have a 12 gs that i suspect could be having the same issues.

Bought it used replaced the dead battery with a yellow top and then started having codes set after that.

It has an aftermarket stereo and amp so i suspected amp draw is too much possibly causing the issue however previous owner never had the issue so that does not make sense.

I am still chasing the problems and have had parts thrown at it that did not resolve the issue. New ebcm new wheel hub and now the other hub is triggering a code.

I plan on changing the Wheel speed sensor cables but i doubt that will fix it.

Either the car hates the yellow top or the header heat is causing unstable electronics.

Not sure if i should add a higher amp alternator or replace the pcm.

it is an annoying situation be thankful you have an extended warranty.

Your situation with the draw sounds like an easy one to track down.

plasticsman57

Hi all,

Thanks for all the replies. Yes the dealer said that they have done the draw test, and yes this is the second GM dealer in my area to look at the car. I picked up the car today after they had it for a week, and they said we are sorry we don't know what is happening. They said that the car went from 12.1 volts to 11.7 in the first couple of days, but then it held at the 11.7 volts. They said GM has not returned any of their calls from the dealer inquiring about my problem. The dealer said that when the car goes dead again, to tow it in, not jump it so they can see it from a total dead situation.

Had a call from GM with an offer of $2,000.00 value customer money towards a trade on another GM vehicle. I countered with $5,000.00, and they said that they would get back to me with in 48 hours. I hate to, but I may just trade this thing to them.

So anyway back to square 1, dealing with the problem. I will continue documenting daily everything that happens. Now 7 weeks with the steering wheel colum on order with nothing yet.

Thanks for all the replies!

Greg

Got uid0

Did they test the alternator amps at the alternator itself not what is displayed on the DIC?

plasticsman57

Hi,

Yes, they did their checks at the battery, not the computer volt meter. I use the computer volt meter to monitor it daily. I know it's not accurate, but it provides a trend.

Thanks

ErnieN85

Check for a loose nut on the starter connections from the alternator & battery


Common problem

plasticsman57

Will do

Jim Barker

The sleep mode does not establish itself very quick. But systematically as circuits time out and quit drawing currant. Interior lights are slow and other circuits too! That makes it tough to diagnos draws. Example when you touch the door release button every thing wakes up and starts looking for a key fob. So when your ready to pull fuses the known values you are looking for should drop if the circuit is stuck on for some reason or not timed out yet. Garage mechanics just do not want to give it the time necessary. Items may time out again when fuse is reinserted adding more time to diagnosis. The manual gives step by step instructions to find such problems but is timely. Being familiar with connector locations and routing is a must when using the manual. The back yard guy can still pin this down to a particular item. Example leave alternator disconnected all night even though its is controlled by the computer, there are diodes that back bias flow at the bridge rectifier pulling milli-amps when bad. Just as all these modules can also do. A process of elimination. Add ons where sheet metal screws hit wiring harness is common even factory screws end up to close to the wiring and lead to a short circuit to ground. Milliamps do not blow fuses but do drain batteries