No start again
09-12-2016, 12:14 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
No start again
Hi All, I know this issue has been talked about many times here; 2005 manual will not start. Remove the negative brake cable, it resets and starts. With mine sometimes the Column Lock message shows on the DIC. I turn the wheel, it locks and then start. Other times the wheel wont lock at all, I turn it and the car will start. Other times not at all. Then there are the times I have no start with nothing in the DIC but has the engine light on, car no start. What could this freak'in be? Column Lock Bypass the answer? Chevy has replaced everything from the dash to the battery cables and the issue still persists. HELP 
09-12-2016, 03:21 PM
#2
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-and-why.html
And when you go to install the eliminator (get if from the source I listed off ebay), take the time to pull the SCLM (the black box that the eliminator connector is going to plug into) to clean its main connector pins that cars main connector plugs into it, and the main connector with electrical contact cleaner as well. hence clean both sets of socket pins on the black box, and both the main connector spades and the eliminator spades on these connectors before you plug it all back in, and snap the black box in place.
Short of that, and you want to keep the OEM problem child steering column lock in play, then you need to pull the steering column apart, so you can de-bur the slot in the lock plate that the lock rod is binding up against and not allowing a clean release instead.
Lock rod itself is at the 4:00 position in that slot, and when you go to start the car, the rod has to cleanly slip back to disengage the lock plate slots.
So what the eliminator does, is just takes the actual steering column lock out of play in the unlocked position, and the eliminator sending the needed resistance signals back to the SCLM to make it think that the steering column lock out of play, is working correctly instead.
And when you go to install the eliminator (get if from the source I listed off ebay), take the time to pull the SCLM (the black box that the eliminator connector is going to plug into) to clean its main connector pins that cars main connector plugs into it, and the main connector with electrical contact cleaner as well. hence clean both sets of socket pins on the black box, and both the main connector spades and the eliminator spades on these connectors before you plug it all back in, and snap the black box in place.
Short of that, and you want to keep the OEM problem child steering column lock in play, then you need to pull the steering column apart, so you can de-bur the slot in the lock plate that the lock rod is binding up against and not allowing a clean release instead.
Lock rod itself is at the 4:00 position in that slot, and when you go to start the car, the rod has to cleanly slip back to disengage the lock plate slots.
So what the eliminator does, is just takes the actual steering column lock out of play in the unlocked position, and the eliminator sending the needed resistance signals back to the SCLM to make it think that the steering column lock out of play, is working correctly instead.
Last edited by Dano523; 09-12-2016 at 03:27 PM.
09-13-2016, 11:54 AM
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-and-why.html
And when you go to install the eliminator (get if from the source I listed off ebay), take the time to pull the SCLM (the black box that the eliminator connector is going to plug into) to clean its main connector pins that cars main connector plugs into it, and the main connector with electrical contact cleaner as well. hence clean both sets of socket pins on the black box, and both the main connector spades and the eliminator spades on these connectors before you plug it all back in, and snap the black box in place.
Short of that, and you want to keep the OEM problem child steering column lock in play, then you need to pull the steering column apart, so you can de-bur the slot in the lock plate that the lock rod is binding up against and not allowing a clean release instead.
Lock rod itself is at the 4:00 position in that slot, and when you go to start the car, the rod has to cleanly slip back to disengage the lock plate slots.
So what the eliminator does, is just takes the actual steering column lock out of play in the unlocked position, and the eliminator sending the needed resistance signals back to the SCLM to make it think that the steering column lock out of play, is working correctly instead.
And when you go to install the eliminator (get if from the source I listed off ebay), take the time to pull the SCLM (the black box that the eliminator connector is going to plug into) to clean its main connector pins that cars main connector plugs into it, and the main connector with electrical contact cleaner as well. hence clean both sets of socket pins on the black box, and both the main connector spades and the eliminator spades on these connectors before you plug it all back in, and snap the black box in place.
Short of that, and you want to keep the OEM problem child steering column lock in play, then you need to pull the steering column apart, so you can de-bur the slot in the lock plate that the lock rod is binding up against and not allowing a clean release instead.
Lock rod itself is at the 4:00 position in that slot, and when you go to start the car, the rod has to cleanly slip back to disengage the lock plate slots.
So what the eliminator does, is just takes the actual steering column lock out of play in the unlocked position, and the eliminator sending the needed resistance signals back to the SCLM to make it think that the steering column lock out of play, is working correctly instead.
09-13-2016, 07:23 PM
#4
Hi All, I know this issue has been talked about many times here; 2005 manual will not start. Remove the negative brake cable, it resets and starts. With mine sometimes the Column Lock message shows on the DIC. I turn the wheel, it locks and then start. Other times the wheel wont lock at all, I turn it and the car will start. Other times not at all. Then there are the times I have no start with nothing in the DIC but has the engine light on, car no start. What could this freak'in be? Column Lock Bypass the answer? Chevy has replaced everything from the dash to the battery cables and the issue still persists. HELP
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ce+column+lock
Over the yeas, "Solutions" offered in all the thread appear to be temporary at best. I am speculating many member learned to live with it, given up or lost interest and simply never come back to the threads.
*****
Dano523, among multiple threads dealing with the SCL problems, in passing, you mentioned you would do a write up on how to make the repair on the CL module next time when you have one out.....
Well....this latest thread strike my interest....to help others in need at the moment or in the future....since it is an easy 10 minute job to remove the obstructions getting out the CLM board and take a couple of pictures enabling you to further illustrate the fixings...here are the pictures showing both sides on mine:
Dano523, if you need better zoom in's, no problem, only takes me no more than 30 minutes to remove/take pictures and restore my dash back to normal.
*****
FYI on this particular module....
GM-15915003 is used over quite a few GM models:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...U-pA3VS9Y-JR0Q
Below listed applications included all the C6 years:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...0_3ALWarobmgXg
Could be high demands due to many applications or it is another poor design that fails over the many GM model using it - it is currently out of stock with unknow availability!
Last edited by victorf; 09-13-2016 at 07:30 PM.
09-15-2016, 03:24 AM
#5
victorf, if you can get me two PDF's (or larger blow ups), each side of the board straight down, easy to do a right up on fixing the boards.
The first problem that happens is just bad solder joints, and even your your board, there are questionable solder joints that I would resolve, even with your board working.
The second one is the three Relays, and they are easy to not only test, but to replace if they go bad as well (what wears out over time).
The Taiko HTB1-160 is a Panasonic ACTB1H2, so you can pull the schematic for it on page 77 to test them.
https://www.panasonic-electric-works...otiverelay.pdf
Hence the coil side is 12 volt, so you start with the NC contact sides to test first without the coils charged, then charge the coil to test the continuity through in on the NC sides next. If you find one bad, you can replace the relay, but if you are short for time and don't want to wait for the new relay to show up, nothing stopping anyone from just pulling the relay covers to just clean the contacts on the contractors points inside the relays instead.
Note, if you owned a Triumph car , it got to the point that your where pulling the covers on relays all the time to clean the contacts on them, isntead of having to replace them all to often isntead.
The rest of the works is all solid state, and if any part off that goes south, the car would be throwing major codes for the module itself bad to start with (not the service steering column lock DIC message when the relay is either not firing the the steering column lock with enough voltage to it through a relay, or the lock its self gear bound up instead).
So back to the relays, the pins look like this on the bottom of the board,
.0
0 0
0 0
So top center pin (common) to bottom left pin is the normal close circuit.
Top center pin to the bottom right hand pin is the normal open (need to charge the coil to close it)
the two pins middle row left and right are the coil of the relay.
If you take a look at your far left relay looking at the bottom of the board, bottom left hand pin, that solder joint looks like less then stellar to be being with (almost like the contact point in the relay was over heating and transferred down to the relay pin to the solder itself).
Same for the soldering on the resistor that is between the center and far right relay top common pins. Hell keep going upwards from that poin,and the solder joint for the eliminator/steering lock socket pin top right look like ***** as well.
The easy way under stand this, you have 12 volt positive and negative coming on the board from the white socket pins, it has to get to the right hand upper side of the board (looking at the bottom of the board) to the relays directly, then through the relays out the steering column lock pins directly as well.
So bottom and left of the board is pretty mute (looking at the bottom of the board) unless the car is screaming that the entire module is bad, and just need to focus on these solder joints and relay instead when not enough power is getting to a working lock to fire it correctly.
If a Resistance sensing problem instead (resistors off the eliminator or steering column lock), easy enough to trace that back from the steering column lock pins solder joints first to the board, and will bank that within a few steps, will find the cold solder joint problem as well (hence see above note about ***** soldering of the steering column lock socket pin to the board itself top right pin, and would a cold solder joint candidate if this board was not able to see the resistance feed back to cause problems when the car was already running).
What dry/cold solder joints look like,
https://www.google.com/search?q=cold...w=1280&bih=581
The first problem that happens is just bad solder joints, and even your your board, there are questionable solder joints that I would resolve, even with your board working.
The second one is the three Relays, and they are easy to not only test, but to replace if they go bad as well (what wears out over time).
The Taiko HTB1-160 is a Panasonic ACTB1H2, so you can pull the schematic for it on page 77 to test them.
https://www.panasonic-electric-works...otiverelay.pdf
Hence the coil side is 12 volt, so you start with the NC contact sides to test first without the coils charged, then charge the coil to test the continuity through in on the NC sides next. If you find one bad, you can replace the relay, but if you are short for time and don't want to wait for the new relay to show up, nothing stopping anyone from just pulling the relay covers to just clean the contacts on the contractors points inside the relays instead.
Note, if you owned a Triumph car , it got to the point that your where pulling the covers on relays all the time to clean the contacts on them, isntead of having to replace them all to often isntead.
The rest of the works is all solid state, and if any part off that goes south, the car would be throwing major codes for the module itself bad to start with (not the service steering column lock DIC message when the relay is either not firing the the steering column lock with enough voltage to it through a relay, or the lock its self gear bound up instead).
So back to the relays, the pins look like this on the bottom of the board,
.0
0 0
0 0
So top center pin (common) to bottom left pin is the normal close circuit.
Top center pin to the bottom right hand pin is the normal open (need to charge the coil to close it)
the two pins middle row left and right are the coil of the relay.
If you take a look at your far left relay looking at the bottom of the board, bottom left hand pin, that solder joint looks like less then stellar to be being with (almost like the contact point in the relay was over heating and transferred down to the relay pin to the solder itself).
Same for the soldering on the resistor that is between the center and far right relay top common pins. Hell keep going upwards from that poin,and the solder joint for the eliminator/steering lock socket pin top right look like ***** as well.
The easy way under stand this, you have 12 volt positive and negative coming on the board from the white socket pins, it has to get to the right hand upper side of the board (looking at the bottom of the board) to the relays directly, then through the relays out the steering column lock pins directly as well.
So bottom and left of the board is pretty mute (looking at the bottom of the board) unless the car is screaming that the entire module is bad, and just need to focus on these solder joints and relay instead when not enough power is getting to a working lock to fire it correctly.
If a Resistance sensing problem instead (resistors off the eliminator or steering column lock), easy enough to trace that back from the steering column lock pins solder joints first to the board, and will bank that within a few steps, will find the cold solder joint problem as well (hence see above note about ***** soldering of the steering column lock socket pin to the board itself top right pin, and would a cold solder joint candidate if this board was not able to see the resistance feed back to cause problems when the car was already running).
What dry/cold solder joints look like,
https://www.google.com/search?q=cold...w=1280&bih=581
Last edited by Dano523; 09-15-2016 at 04:19 AM.
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victorf (09-18-2016)
09-15-2016, 03:40 AM
#6
victorf, if you can get me two PDF's (or larger blow ups), each side of the board straight down, easy to do a right up on fixing the boards.
The first problem that happens is just bad solder joints, and even your your board, there are questionable solder joints that I would resolve, even with your board working.
The second one is the three Relays, and they are easy to not only test, but to replace if they go bad as well (what wears out over time).
The Taiko HTB1-160 is a Panasonic ACTB1H2, so you can pull the schematic for it on page 77 to test them.
https://www.panasonic-electric-works...otiverelay.pdf
Hence the coil side is 12 volt, so you start with the NC contact sides to test first without the coils charged, then charge the coil to test the continuity through in on the NC sides next. If you find one bad, you can replace the relay, but if you are short for time and don't want to wait for the new relay to show up, nothing stopping anyone from just pulling the relay covers to just clean the contacts on the contractors sides instead.
Note, if you owned a Triumph car , it got to the point that your where pulling the covers on relays all the time to clean the contacts on them, isntead of having to replace them all to often isntead.
The rest of the works is all solid state, and if any part off that goes south, the car would be throwing major codes for the module itself bad to start with (not the service steering column lock DIC message when the relay is either not firing the the steering column lock with enough voltage to it through a relay, or the lock its self gear bound up instead).
The first problem that happens is just bad solder joints, and even your your board, there are questionable solder joints that I would resolve, even with your board working.
The second one is the three Relays, and they are easy to not only test, but to replace if they go bad as well (what wears out over time).
The Taiko HTB1-160 is a Panasonic ACTB1H2, so you can pull the schematic for it on page 77 to test them.
https://www.panasonic-electric-works...otiverelay.pdf
Hence the coil side is 12 volt, so you start with the NC contact sides to test first without the coils charged, then charge the coil to test the continuity through in on the NC sides next. If you find one bad, you can replace the relay, but if you are short for time and don't want to wait for the new relay to show up, nothing stopping anyone from just pulling the relay covers to just clean the contacts on the contractors sides instead.
Note, if you owned a Triumph car , it got to the point that your where pulling the covers on relays all the time to clean the contacts on them, isntead of having to replace them all to often isntead.
The rest of the works is all solid state, and if any part off that goes south, the car would be throwing major codes for the module itself bad to start with (not the service steering column lock DIC message when the relay is either not firing the the steering column lock with enough voltage to it through a relay, or the lock its self gear bound up instead).
09-24-2016, 05:10 PM
#8
Pin 2 is your 12v positive in, and pins 4 and 6 are your negative in's.
So set a mulit-meter to continuity, and touch off each of the coils sides on the relays to determine which side of the coils is negative and positive back to pins 2, 4 or 6 on the board.
Note, only one side of the coil will lead back directly to the pin, so mark which side of each relay coil is positive and negative per relay.
So once you figure out which coil side is positive and negative via the continuity check on the board, we can start to check the relay (need to energize the relay correctly via board lay out so you not back feeding through the board the wrong polarities).
So no power to the coil should have continuity from the common pin on the top, to the bottom left hand pin for all three relays. From the top common pin to the bottom right hand pin should have no continuity through it with the coil not energized.
With the coil energized in the correct path via 12v (so you don't polarity back feed the board incorrectly), top common pin to the bottom right hand pin should have continuity across them, and the continuity from the top common pin to the bottom left hand pin should be lost.
Now on the actual steering column lock connector here you go for it pin lay out,
https://www.mediafire.com/?7utvd4kvnnn85sw
B is the ground source for signal back if the steering lock is locked or unlocked, and A is the other side of the that. Hence with the steering locked, the reading between the two at the eliminator/actual steering lock connector should be 487ohms and in the unlocked position, 294ohms instead. C and D are the 12v reversing legs to drive the eliminator relay latching coil/actual lock motor forward and back isntead. As for at the board, C and D will lead back to the relays instead.
As for the relays, if you need one, Taiko are like $6 on ebay, and actual cheaper than mousers price for replacements instead.
Or as said, you can just pull the cover off the relay, and clean the contact points on the NC or NO from the switching arm off the common instead.
Last edited by Dano523; 09-24-2016 at 05:11 PM.