Auto transmission problem after charging dead battery
#1
Auto transmission problem after charging dead battery
I have an issue that I hope someone can help me with. Due to getting a hip resurfacing I was unable to drive my 2010 Callaway SC 606 Grand Sport auto-trans from Aug 8th until Sep 13th. Someone started it once a week and let it run for 20 minutes. On the Wednesday took a drive first time in 5 weeks, no problems at all, went to take a drive today, Saturday the battery was dead , had it jumped,according to the manual, started right up. Was going to buy a new battery and when I shifted from Park to Reverse the tranny banged and the car wanted to jump, same with Drive to Reverse. The check Engine light is on and the windows would not index. Only drove a few blocks and put it back in the garage. Of course I'm certain I'll need a new tranny, but perhaps some of your folks could give me some advice or info. Much appreciated.
Best Frank
Best Frank
#2
Le Mans Master
I have an issue that I hope someone can help me with. Due to getting a hip resurfacing I was unable to drive my 2010 Callaway SC 606 Grand Sport auto-trans from Aug 8th until Sep 13th. Someone started it once a week and let it run for 20 minutes. On the Wednesday took a drive first time in 5 weeks, no problems at all, went to take a drive today, Saturday the battery was dead , had it jumped,according to the manual, started right up. Was going to buy a new battery and when I shifted from Park to Reverse the tranny banged and the car wanted to jump, same with Drive to Reverse. The check Engine light is on and the windows would not index. Only drove a few blocks and put it back in the garage. Of course I'm certain I'll need a new tranny, but perhaps some of your folks could give me some advice or info. Much appreciated.
Best Frank
Best Frank
Low voltage really freaks the electronics out
Especially since you are saying the windows will not index
Put a new battery in it and I bet your problems go away
Dave
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Cziffra (09-17-2016)
#3
Many, many thanks was planning on doing what you suggested. Frank
I don't think you will need a new transmisson .... C6's do all kind of wacky things when the batteries go dead
Low voltage really freaks the electronics out
Especially since you are saying the windows will not index
Put a new battery in it and I bet your problems go away
Dave
Low voltage really freaks the electronics out
Especially since you are saying the windows will not index
Put a new battery in it and I bet your problems go away
Dave
#4
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2007
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Hope the new battery solves your problem. It's not likely that 20 minutes was enough to recharge it. Probably the weekly starts just made it worse. Use of a battery tender or pulling the negative battery cable would have been better.
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Cziffra (09-17-2016)
#6
Safety Car
how about putting the old batt on a 5 amp charge for say 24 hours and then see what happens, your gonna run out and buy a batt of the shelf that probably has less charge then the old one, if you really have to buy a new one then do the same thing charge it slowly for 24 hours
Last edited by CMY SIX; 09-21-2016 at 08:53 PM.
#7
Team Owner
how about putting the old batt on a 5 amp charge for say 24 hours and then see what happens, your gonna run out and buy a batt of the shelf that probably has less charge then the old one, if you really have to buy a new one then do the same thing charge it slowly for 24 hours
#8
The engine and transmission controllers really don't like low voltage. I would start with 1. disconnect battery from vehicle, 2. charge battery overnight with a high-quality charger, 3. reconnect battery and see how it works.
that should result in essentially resetting a lot of the learned shift pressures and such, which needs to be done anytime you drop the voltage below 11 volts or so for any substantial period of time.
The rough gear engagement could be due to all the fluid draining into the pan during storage, and the clutches having to rapidly refill when the initial shift is commanded.
I think your transmission is likely fine, as is the rest of the vehicle.
For the future, (if you don't already have one) purchase either a battery tender or NOCO smart charger to leave connected to the battery whenever you are storing it for long periods (over 2 weeks without at least a 30 min drive). There shouldn't be any issues leaving the battery connected to the car with these chargers, but as I mentioned, disconnecting it isn't a bad idea just to reset the computers whenever you first start it again.
Idling the engine (with the stock alternator) may not give you any appreciable recharge on the battery, especially once the fan kicks on. I suppose it makes sense for keeping the fluids circulated, but you'd be far better off taking it for a drive than idling it. If not possible, I think it'd be best to not use it at all for the storage season, then do a full inspection of all fluid levels, etc. before operation once you're ready to drive it.
that should result in essentially resetting a lot of the learned shift pressures and such, which needs to be done anytime you drop the voltage below 11 volts or so for any substantial period of time.
The rough gear engagement could be due to all the fluid draining into the pan during storage, and the clutches having to rapidly refill when the initial shift is commanded.
I think your transmission is likely fine, as is the rest of the vehicle.
For the future, (if you don't already have one) purchase either a battery tender or NOCO smart charger to leave connected to the battery whenever you are storing it for long periods (over 2 weeks without at least a 30 min drive). There shouldn't be any issues leaving the battery connected to the car with these chargers, but as I mentioned, disconnecting it isn't a bad idea just to reset the computers whenever you first start it again.
Idling the engine (with the stock alternator) may not give you any appreciable recharge on the battery, especially once the fan kicks on. I suppose it makes sense for keeping the fluids circulated, but you'd be far better off taking it for a drive than idling it. If not possible, I think it'd be best to not use it at all for the storage season, then do a full inspection of all fluid levels, etc. before operation once you're ready to drive it.
#9
Thanks for all the advice!
The new battery solved all the issues. It did not really make sense to try to charge the old one, it was the original and 7 years old.
Don't throw parts at it unless needed for sure. Unhook the negative cable and charge the battery fully, then re-connect and see what happens. Even if you get a new battery, charge it before installing. With the sensitivity of the C6 electrically, I would always disconnect the battery before connecting a charger. I realize that you should be able to do it, but it's unwise...just like moving the driver's seat fore and aft all the time. You should be able to do it, but it's asking for trouble. And putting it on a tender when not driving it is a much better idea than idling it for 20 minutes.
#11
Race Director