jakemacaw84

Alright so I have a 05 c6 base LS2 M6. This morning I noticed my clutch pedal was a little easier to press and went a tiny bit farther down to the floor. It didn't seem terrible bad and after a quick pump seemed like it was back to where it was. Thought nothing of it. Left work at lunch time and I was in 2nd gear getting ready to shift and my clutch felt like a cable snapped almost and it hit the floor. I realize it's hydraulic. I noticed some smoke building in the hatch area. I tested the car by rev matching my speed and was still able to shift gears without using the clutch pedal.. Luckily I was only about a mile from home (I only live 3 from work) so I just got it home and parked it.

This sounds like a slave cylinder issue doesn't it? Although I'm not sure what would of caused the smoke. Unless maybe the clutch was partially engaged? But if the slave cylinder went out shouldn't the clutch be basically fully engaged?

Any thoughts or suggestions on what to check next would help.

NotStock

First thing I'd check is the clutch pedal spring. It's not uncommon for those to fail at times.

Mike's LS3

Clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder. Check the clutch fluid reservoir to confirm fluid loss, chances are the clutch fluid is on your exhaust or in the bell housing, thus burning smell. First check the clutch master cylinder since it is less costly to repair. If it is the slave cylinder you might consider a new clutch, pending current mileage.

WW7

with this ^^^^ While it's apart is the time to do a clutch if the mileage is high enough. All my 05 needed was a pilot bearing ( $8.00) but I replaced it all ($2,300) Also it's a good idea to install a remote bleeder.....WW
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Unreal

Strongly suggest finding a good local LS shop. They will typically be far far far cheaper than a dealer on a clutch job.

Clutch spring would not cause this. Clutch functions fine without the spring. Many people take it off because they like it without the spring better.

jakemacaw84

Alright. Happy to report I have found the problem. After inspection the rubber section of the line has developed a split. Oddly enough away from the side of the header.. so I suppose it may of gotten pinched or scratched up some how. Not sure how with the heat shielding around it but anyways.

I'm under the impression that the only way to change the entire line is to gain access to the inside of the bell housing. So the torque tube needs to come out right? Or am I missing a access panel somewhere??

PS No shop is getting my money. No thanks.

Not time for clutch either car only has 53,000 miles.

timd38

Most people remove them, and if you have a Tick master they tell you to remove it.

The spring won't make what happen to him happen.

Sounds like a hydraulic system failure. Slave, line or master, my bet is line or slave since said smoke was involved.

timd38

Tick makes a one piece line, but you need to take bunch of parts off to install it. You have to pull so many parts off to get to the end of the hose, I would do the clutch at the same time. Labor is more than the clutch.

Unreal

Yes the end clips in with a little metal clip on the slave in the torque tube. If you are going that far, I would STRONGLY suggest doing a clutch.

jakemacaw84

While I understand your point, the clutch works fine. The mileage isn't high. I will hold off on replacing the clutch. I've already bought the replacement line it was only 50 dollars. The rest is just labor. I'll be alright.

Unreal

50k miles on a corvette clutch IMO is high and very much worthy of replacing at that point. Its so minimal compared to pulling it apart.

Not only the clutch but pilot bearing and slave IMO. The stock GM slaves do not last long and if you are in there should be replaced.

jakemacaw84

Moving on. I'm having trouble reconnecting the plastic parts of the clutch line. It's hard to get enough leverage with my hand in the right spot. Anyone have any tips or tricks? Also something is causing the clutch pedal to stay stuck up all the way, it cannot be depressed. Any ideas? SMH this car...

PS I know the little u shaped ring is missing. I didn't want it to fall somewhere...

GeneSch

Put the clip in and then snap them together. You will never get the clip in and it will feel like its not in all the way. Just put the clip in first.

jakemacaw84

What about the clutch pedal being stuck all the way up? Any ideas? Getting that line to snap in is hard, there isn't a enough room for me to get my hand in a position where i can snap it in place... i feel it move close and it almost feels like it's there but i can tug on it and it comes apart.

GeneSch

you just have to push.... It wont work until it is snapped in. It is under pressure until it is together. Then bleed it. I will never use a remote bleeder again after I had mine fail.

GeneSch

with the clip in, you will hear it click. There is no other way. The clip must be in as it is sprung due to the valve.

jakemacaw84

There was no way I was getting it in with the clip in place. The pedal by the way being stuck all the way up was part of the problem. I believe it had some sort of clog in the line because while it was stuck all the way up I COULD NOT push the valves together hard enough to clip them in.

I finally decided, after checking for anything obstructing the pedal, it may just need to be forced harder... so I pushed the pedal as hard as I could till it gave.. all operation of the pedal has been restored.

It was still all but impossible to snap the line together with the clip in place and the little clearance. I was able to force it together with the clip resting on the farthest edge of the cap... once all the way in I used my thumb to snap the clip in place.. all is well! Bleeding the clutch took a little while but I finally realized the pedal wasn't returning all the way up without me pulling it the last inch or 2.

I was able to bleed the system without using the bleed screw. It took a lot longer but I didn't feel like jacking the car up again. It honestly has more clutch pedal than before the line broke. I've drove it with zero issues.