Clutch line melted
01-21-2017, 06:31 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Clutch line melted
Had some bad luck today after wrapping up a header install on my 2012 GS, I didn't notice the clutch line (which is wrapped in heat insulation factory) resting on the header. After a short drive the clutch went to the floor and lost all
the fluid as it melted and burst. Is there a way to just replace this line or do I have to pull the whole slave cylinder out of the torque tube?
the fluid as it melted and burst. Is there a way to just replace this line or do I have to pull the whole slave cylinder out of the torque tube?
01-21-2017, 07:17 PM
#2
Slave cylinder has to be removed so you can pull the U clip, to release the hose from it.
If you burn the cable on the master side, then U clip on that side right on the master instead.
And no, Gm does not sell just the hose, so unless you can find someone with a old hose, you have to buy the cylinder to get the new hose.
And no, the Tick solid braided hose will not bolt onto the OEM master cylinder.
If you burn the cable on the master side, then U clip on that side right on the master instead.
And no, Gm does not sell just the hose, so unless you can find someone with a old hose, you have to buy the cylinder to get the new hose.
And no, the Tick solid braided hose will not bolt onto the OEM master cylinder.
The following users liked this post:
18JamesS (04-22-2022)
01-21-2017, 09:51 PM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
That's the master cyl side, mines the slave side. I found a couple threads about cutting the rubber liner and replacing it with stainless an hose and JIC fittings. Going to try that
01-24-2017, 09:26 PM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Just an update, was able to repair the melted line today. Went to my local hydraulic parts store, and purchased a 6mm to 1/4npt compression adapter, they then assembled a new line with crimp fittings from me. Total length was 12" with all the adapters. I used a mityvac to bleed the system, and all seems well, oddly the clutch seems smoother the before. Made some hard pulls to redline a few times and she shifted smoothly.
Stupid lesson to have to learn, but thankfully it only cost me 80 bucks including the mityvac and a replacement spark plug after I dropped one. Ziptie your clutch line back!! Don't learn the hard way lol
Stupid lesson to have to learn, but thankfully it only cost me 80 bucks including the mityvac and a replacement spark plug after I dropped one. Ziptie your clutch line back!! Don't learn the hard way lol
06-30-2018, 06:56 PM
#9
Compression fitting will be fine.
Gm just uses crimped ferrule caps to hold the OEM flex line to the rigid pipe lines under the insulation instead.
Truth is, if you cut off the ferrule caps, and can get a ferrule crimper tool in the needed space to use it, could replace the flex hose OEM style instead.
Gm just uses crimped ferrule caps to hold the OEM flex line to the rigid pipe lines under the insulation instead.
Truth is, if you cut off the ferrule caps, and can get a ferrule crimper tool in the needed space to use it, could replace the flex hose OEM style instead.
06-30-2018, 11:38 PM
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
I actually sold the car, and it went to a guy I’m still in touch with, who proceeded to put a Vortech blower on it, and make somewhere north of 800hp. He installed a new monster stage 3 clutch, and it still to this day has the same compression fittings and line that I used to fix the issue. It’s worked flawlessly. I went to a hydraulic place and they made me a new line with heat shielding on it. I believe it used a 6mm compression fitting. I did it with only having to remove the one header.