jerseydrew

I've read that you should get a tech 2 to "open" the ABS to get a full fluid flush.

can this be done with the snap on solus? my buddy has one but i don't want to go through the hassle of getting it if it won't do what i need it to.

jft69z

It's possible. My Modis does it. Have him see if it shows 'Automated Bleed' procedure under ABS heading. He'll need to input the year, model, etc first. Should be able to see if it's available without hooking up to the vehicle (sometimes).

rabrooks

So, I can't bleed my brakes and the ABS be included in the bleed?

If there is a way to bleed the entire system without special tools or equipment please share with me how to do this. I have always bled the system before track days. But I assume I'm only getting the main system and excluding the ABS part of the system. Would it work if I ran the engine?

Thanks in advance for the help.

jft69z

Nope, you're just getting the main hydraulic system bleed if you don't do the automated bleed procedure. I've seen guys mention going out and activate the ABS system while driving, or going out on a wet road to get it activated, but I think that would be marginal (if not dangerous) at best. The automated bleed takes a bit of time and cycles each corner of the system pretty good.

Running the engine would have no effect.

If you do get to do the automated procedure keep an eye on the brake fluid level at all times during to procedure (or you'll suck air and have to start over). Also make sure your battery is fully charged up or hook up a charger/jump box during the procedure to keep it topped off.

subfloor@centurytrans

I can tell you from first hand experience that bleeding the system by yourself, in conjunction with purposely activating the ABS on the street works every bit as good as using a Tech 2.

I used to bleed my brakes for years by myself until one time I thought I'd have somebody do it using a Tech 2 and it felt exactly the same afterwards.

duramaxsky

Wrong. The ABS returns the fluid right back into the pump. It just rotates the dirty fluid through the pump. No help at all. Only the automated bleed will push it out.

jft69z

Agree 100%. You would have to "activate the ABS" & manual bleed the system multiple times to maybe get some of the old fluid out. Just because "it felt exactly the same afterwards" doesn't mean you got a good flush.

rabrooks

In my case, I'm not too concerned about flushing old fluid from the ABS. I just want to make sure there is no air in it. So if I activate the ABS by hard braking and air is in that loop, will it stay in that loop or will it be expelled into the other parts of the system.

duramaxsky

Most will stay in the loop. The fluid from releasing the brakes by the system must go back in before the pump. So it is sucked right back in. The only way to bleed the ABS is the automate bleeding program. My Autoenginuity scanner has it.

jft69z

Read the first 2 sentences of this document. It's pretty clear why we're telling you to do the automated procedure.

jaredtxrx

I just got a C6 about a month ago. The fluid is black as night and needs a change ASAP. I do realize flushing the entire system would be ideal but is it worth doing a flush but do so w/out opening up the ABS system?

Outside of a GM Tech 2 are there other programmers that can do this sort of thing? I have a cheap bluetooth OBD II dongle, any software out there can would work with this type of set-up?

jft69z

Doing the entire system including the ABS would be ideal, but flushing just the main hydraulic system is better than doing nothing at all. It will at least get rid of most of the old fluid that may be moisture and possibly copper contaminated due to age and use.

Keep in mind that the ABS unit is a very expensive item, so flushing that too would be a good idea if possible. Another way to try & protect it is when doing a brake job for instance. Don't just use a c-clamp and compress the caliper pistons back to change the pads, forcing all the old/crappy fluid that's in the pistons back thru the system. Open up the bleeder screws at each caliper when compressing the pistons. Drain the bad fluid into a container with a hose instead. Top off the system with fresh fluid when done (or do a flush of entire system at the same time).

Cheap testers probably won't be capable of the automated procedure. Pro level scan tools such as Tech 2, Snap On, OTC, Autoenginuity, etc. would be able to perform the procedure.

jw1

Any feedback on the Autoenginuity tool for doing ABS bleeding? A couple of the reviews I've read elsewhere don't really seem to like it. I already have HPTuners and Torque and don't need any scanning, just the ABS bleeding.

duramaxsky

I have used it on mine. Works fine.

jaredtxrx

This is what my mechanic uses and he told me had can open the ABS with it. (He had a Z06 for a while)

UmX

sorry to revive this dead post.. but i swapped my ecbm, abs module. out for a used one.. i also bought this but when it comes to the abs bleeding part it gives me cant communicate with the control unit.. but i can go into the ecbm with the tool and see all the infos, no codes, no errors thru the dtc.. any ideas?
it trys to pulse the abs, lights come on the dash saying service abs then kicks that error on the scanner.

dt25

Installed the DRM Spring a while back, gave codes for ABS and ASR and BRAKE. (Not PARK) Didn’t really mind until I put her in a ditch one day. Bled the ABS unit or whatever it’s appropriate name behind the driver seat. Went for a ride (I live on gravel roads) so engaging the ABS really isn’t that difficult or dangerous at 20mph or below. Bled unit once more, went for a drive and no longer throwing codes.

Thought I’d post in case someone else had this problem.

Also, Pedal has been solid since I bought it, and hasn’t changed since DRM spring install. Bled the brakes after the install furthest from M/C to closest. Seems to work just fine.