[Z06] How Do You Change The Oil On The New Z06
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
How Do You Change The Oil On The New Z06
OK, I've changed the oil in my cars, trucks, SUV's for years but never when there has been a dry sump oil system in place. I plan on doing the oil changes on my new Z06 when I get it and ask, how to do it. Inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks, Mike
Thanks, Mike
#3
Oil Changes
I have a dry-sump Brodix aluminum block stroker SB Chevy in my Lister, and it holds a LOT of oil, in fact we speak in gallons not pints. Like mine runs about a gallon and a half..some Porsches use around 3 gallons.....So you better have a big catch tank....
JM
JM
#4
Drifting
I haven't seen the exact setup, but I'll offer my guess. All the oil sits in the oil reservior, so there should be a drain plug on the reservior to drain the oil from. From the pictures, it looks like the reservior sits high up in the engine bay, so there may be some fitting to attach a small hose so you can drain the oil down below the car to a catch pan under the car and not have oil get all over. You then simply refill the reservior with fresh oil. Shouldn't be too difficult.
- Mark
- Mark
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks Teabagger & Mark. I'm thinking like you Mark, in that it gets drained from the reservoir. Wonder if any residual would get drained from the oil pan.
#6
Oil Changes
The sump or pan should be mostly dry as in "Dry-Sump." You drain the reservoir or tank-mine looks like a pony keg. Some find it helpful to have a pump handy to pump it out like those you can find (overpriced) at Griot's garage. All depends on the placement of the tank. Usually the filter is inline before the tank, with the cooler before or after the tank.
JM
JM
#8
You know, if I could, I would love to take the C6 Z06 to Jiffy Lube. Do you know how long they would look around under the car trying to figure out how to drain the oil?
A video of that might just be worth $10,000 in AFV...
A video of that might just be worth $10,000 in AFV...
#9
Drifting
I forgot about the oil cooler. Maybe the drain could be at the oil cooler itself? If not, then it will probably be hard to truely drain all the old oil because some of it will remain in the cooler and the lines that run to it.
- Mark
- Mark
#10
Safety Car
Member Since: Jun 2002
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05
Originally Posted by TeamSpeed
You know, if I could, I would love to take the C6 Z06 to Jiffy Lube. Do you know how long they would look around under the car trying to figure out how to drain the oil?
A video of that might just be worth $10,000 in AFV...
A video of that might just be worth $10,000 in AFV...
#11
Safety Car
Member Since: Apr 2004
Location: Murrells inlet SC
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C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified 2020
Originally Posted by TeamSpeed
You know, if I could, I would love to take the C6 Z06 to Jiffy Lube. Do you know how long they would look around under the car trying to figure out how to drain the oil?
A video of that might just be worth $10,000 in AFV...
A video of that might just be worth $10,000 in AFV...
#12
Race Director
Originally Posted by teabagger
I have a dry-sump Brodix aluminum block stroker SB Chevy in my Lister, and it holds a LOT of oil, in fact we speak in gallons not pints. Like mine runs about a gallon and a half..
JM
JM
#13
Oil Changes
One of the advantages w/ a dry sump is that with so much oil, you can basically add oil (if you run hard, like track days) and change the filetrs, and the oil stays relatively clean because the contaminants are dissapated across gallons rather than quarts, you run a cooler, and presumably a MUCH better filter, and your burning the oil, and adding to it constantly.....This isn't true for a daily driver of course, so if you're gonna be doing the old 3000-5000 miles on an oil change, better plan on some pricey changes...maybe $50-70 bucks in oil alone for Mobil 1 or the like. I run a very pricey Dino oil called Swepco www.swepcousa.com which combines the slipperyness of Synthetic, but allows needle bearings to rotate rather than "push" across the oil film, which is key for shaft rockers, roller cams, Etc....That costs even more but is cheap compared to a motor....& I misspoke earlier, I run 3Gals, and some Porsches run as much as 8 gallons.....
JM
JM
#14
Burning Brakes
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At the Chicago auto show, GM had a LS7 engine on a stand. I studied it pretty closely and the oil pan still has a drain plug. It looks like the oil changing procedure may be more complicated than we are used to. We may now have to drain most of the oil from the external reservoir and then get what is left by draining the oil pan.
#15
Originally Posted by LS WON
Daniel
#16
Pro
If the oil pan does indeed have a drain plug, and if its the lowest point of the entire system, would it not stand to reason that when the engine isn't running, all the oil will drain into the pan and you just change it like normal?
Speaking of Jiffy Lube, I just dropped a new engine in the wife's 2000 Grand Vitara with only 80k miles on it. She had the oil changed there every 3k miles. Look at these images of the 80k Suzuki engine that they killed. Don't EVER take your vette there or anything else in your stable!
Oil pick up screen:
Front cover removed:
And the spun bearing that seized the engine:
Speaking of Jiffy Lube, I just dropped a new engine in the wife's 2000 Grand Vitara with only 80k miles on it. She had the oil changed there every 3k miles. Look at these images of the 80k Suzuki engine that they killed. Don't EVER take your vette there or anything else in your stable!
Oil pick up screen:
Front cover removed:
And the spun bearing that seized the engine:
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by teabagger
One of the advantages w/ a dry sump is that with so much oil, you can basically add oil (if you run hard, like track days) and change the filetrs, and the oil stays relatively clean because the contaminants are dissapated across gallons rather than quarts, you run a cooler, and presumably a MUCH better filter, and your burning the oil, and adding to it constantly.....This isn't true for a daily driver of course, so if you're gonna be doing the old 3000-5000 miles on an oil change, better plan on some pricey changes...maybe $50-70 bucks in oil alone for Mobil 1 or the like. I run a very pricey Dino oil called Swepco www.swepcousa.com which combines the slipperyness of Synthetic, but allows needle bearings to rotate rather than "push" across the oil film, which is key for shaft rockers, roller cams, Etc....That costs even more but is cheap compared to a motor....& I misspoke earlier, I run 3Gals, and some Porsches run as much as 8 gallons.....
JM
JM
Great information.
#19
Racer
Thread Starter
Speaking of Jiffy Lube, I just dropped a new engine in the wife's 2000 Grand Vitara with only 80k miles on it. She had the oil changed there every 3k miles. Look at these images of the 80k Suzuki engine that they killed. Don't EVER take your vette there or anything else in your stable!
Sorry to hear this. Just another reason to do it yourself!
Sorry to hear this. Just another reason to do it yourself!
#20
Drifting
Originally Posted by Stunt
If the oil pan does indeed have a drain plug, and if its the lowest point of the entire system, would it not stand to reason that when the engine isn't running, all the oil will drain into the pan and you just change it like normal?
I don't know why you'd need a drain in the oil pan for this car. It doesn't make sense to me. The only thing that it may be useful for is as an "inspection hole".
- Mark