[Z06] Anyone burn the clutch launching?
#1
Le Mans Master
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Anyone burn the clutch launching?
I don't have a C6 I have a C5 and this past weekend I got the LS7 clutch kit installed. Tonight since I have a few hundred miles on the clutch I was done with the breakin and I floored it a few times. Once I did a launch from 3k and let go of the clutch real fast and the rpms shot up and I smelled something as I came to a stop a few feet after.
I hope that it was my tires that smelled because if I burned the clutch with that wimpy launch on the street with those tires it suuucks!
I also have about 80rwhp less than a stock C6 Z
Let me know about your experiences and launching with this clutch
Thank you
I hope that it was my tires that smelled because if I burned the clutch with that wimpy launch on the street with those tires it suuucks!
I also have about 80rwhp less than a stock C6 Z
Let me know about your experiences and launching with this clutch
Thank you
#2
#3
Le Mans Master
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OK thanks but that wasn't very helpful.
Is this clutch that pathetic?
So just launch at 3500 or below and make sure to let it up before giving it any gas?
Is this clutch that pathetic?
So just launch at 3500 or below and make sure to let it up before giving it any gas?
#4
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3500 is too high unless you are at the track and using VHT. If you slipped the clutch you'd know...it's smells totally different that tires...lingers longer too. Try 2000 rpms next time and slide your foot off the clutch pedal quickly to the left...letting it dump. Then mash into the throttle.
#6
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Originally Posted by vettemaster1
should have installed an aftermarket performance clutch...
Last edited by IDM; 06-22-2006 at 11:32 AM.
#7
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You need to adjust the pressure plate. With the bellhousing inspection cover removed, have someone hold the clutch all the way to the floor. You should be able to turn the disc by hand. On the pressure plate there are 3 adjustment tabs. You need to tap these tabs counter clockwise. This will take up any slack in the pressure plate. You will have to turn the flywheel to have access to the all of the tabs. Once you do this , release the clutch.
We had to do this for each clutch, C5Z06, C6Z06 and the Luk pro gold. Our first experience was with the Luk pro gold, which uses a HD version of the stock pressure plate. It was slipping at higher rpm. Once we adjusted it, it was fine and stuck like a sob.
Hope this helps.
Terry
We had to do this for each clutch, C5Z06, C6Z06 and the Luk pro gold. Our first experience was with the Luk pro gold, which uses a HD version of the stock pressure plate. It was slipping at higher rpm. Once we adjusted it, it was fine and stuck like a sob.
Hope this helps.
Terry
#8
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Originally Posted by SMOKNC6Z06
You need to adjust the pressure plate. With the bellhousing inspection cover removed, have someone hold the clutch all the way to the floor. You should be able to turn the disc by hand. On the pressure plate there are 3 adjustment tabs. You need to tap these tabs counter clockwise. This will take up any slack in the pressure plate. You will have to turn the flywheel to have access to the all of the tabs. Once you do this , release the clutch.
We had to do this for each clutch, C5Z06, C6Z06 and the Luk pro gold. Our first experience was with the Luk pro gold, which uses a HD version of the stock pressure plate. It was slipping at higher rpm. Once we adjusted it, it was fine and stuck like a sob.
Hope this helps.
Terry
We had to do this for each clutch, C5Z06, C6Z06 and the Luk pro gold. Our first experience was with the Luk pro gold, which uses a HD version of the stock pressure plate. It was slipping at higher rpm. Once we adjusted it, it was fine and stuck like a sob.
Hope this helps.
Terry
#9
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Originally Posted by IDM
...Mine is not slipping when I shift gears at all it just seems a bit gay when I'm trying to launch.
Ranger
#10
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I even called LUk and they said it did not have to be adjusted. Wrong.
Even the shop manuals say you have to adjust the pressure plate. I even had to readjust a Luk gold after 5k and it was fine after that. Most guys don't pay attention to the details. Let me know how it is after you get it adjusted.
You might be able to do it at home. You just have to raise the car, drop the exhaust, then you have access to the inspection cover, unless you have headers that wrap around the bellhousing.
Even the shop manuals say you have to adjust the pressure plate. I even had to readjust a Luk gold after 5k and it was fine after that. Most guys don't pay attention to the details. Let me know how it is after you get it adjusted.
You might be able to do it at home. You just have to raise the car, drop the exhaust, then you have access to the inspection cover, unless you have headers that wrap around the bellhousing.
#12
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Originally Posted by Ranger
Such is the personality of the LS7 clutch. If you figure out how to make it stop doing that, please let me know. Those installed at the Wixom factory exhibit the same behavior.
Ranger
Ranger
#13
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Originally Posted by Ranger
Such is the personality of the LS7 clutch. If you figure out how to make it stop doing that, please let me know. Those installed at the Wixom factory exhibit the same behavior.
Ranger
Ranger
#14
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Originally Posted by IDM
Ranger have you tried what smokinc6zo6 is suggesting to us?
One of you home-gamers ought to try this tip and see if it cures the launch issue with LS7 clutch.
Ranger
#15
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Originally Posted by IDM
It almost feels like my stock ls1 slipping clutch all over again and it has 350 miles on it!
GM service rep. had the gall to accuse me of hotrodding the car
#16
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Originally Posted by bernrex
You and I both. My LS1 clutch was shot at the 300 mile mark.
GM service rep. had the gall to accuse me of hotrodding the car
GM service rep. had the gall to accuse me of hotrodding the car
Well my ls1 clutch was completely stock very old and beat when it started to slip. This one is the ls7 and is brand new bought just 1 week ago and it doesn't feel like I did much of an upgrade
#17
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Originally Posted by IDM
I don't have a C6 I have a C5 ... I floored it a few times. Once I did a launch from 3k and let go of the clutch real fast and the rpms shot up and I smelled something as I came to a stop a few feet after....
An LS7 clutch on a stock 2006 Z06 won't accept one launch of 4200, or even 4000 without glazing the clutch and requiring an hour's cool down.
Now if you drop the launch rpm to 3500 and get the clutch out fast and then, and only then, start the throttle squeeze...the LS7 clutch tolerates that. If instead you get aggressive with the throttle before the clutch is engaged, it will glaze instantly...and will do so even at 2800 or 2500. The clutch material (PP and rotating disc) simply are slip intolerant.
Originally Posted by SMOKNC6Z06
You need to adjust the pressure plate. With the bellhousing inspection cover removed, have someone hold the clutch all the way to the floor. You should be able to turn the disc by hand. On the pressure plate there are 3 adjustment tabs. You need to tap these tabs counter clockwise. This will take up any slack in the pressure plate. You will have to turn the flywheel to have access to the all of the tabs. Once you do this , release the clutch.
We had to do this for each clutch, C5Z06, C6Z06 and the Luk pro gold. Our first experience was with the Luk pro gold, which uses a HD version of the stock pressure plate. It was slipping at higher rpm. Once we adjusted it, it was fine and stuck like a sob. Hope this helps.
Terry
We had to do this for each clutch, C5Z06, C6Z06 and the Luk pro gold. Our first experience was with the Luk pro gold, which uses a HD version of the stock pressure plate. It was slipping at higher rpm. Once we adjusted it, it was fine and stuck like a sob. Hope this helps.
Terry
SMOKNC6Z06, have you done launches in your C6Z? If so, how has the clutch behaved?
Can you tell us the mechanical effect of moving the tabs?
My clutch is 100% fine at high rpms and on the shifts. Very positive. No issue. Provided it wasn't slipped at all on the launch.
It is at launch where this clutch is a supremely weak performer.
That would seem to indicate the issue is heat intolerance rather than clamping force. Your thoughts?
Ranger
Last edited by Ranger; 06-22-2006 at 02:35 PM.
#19
Originally Posted by IDM
Yeah I am not too happy at all about this. I was talked out of my spec 2/3 hyrbid clutch because it goes throught he floor, the discs break, it vibrates and chatters, and is impossible to drive. Well I had driven a friends Zo6 with one and it was fine but I figured if the pros were telling me not to do it then I wouldnt. This clutch is a sad recomendation for anyone that drives their car hard. It almost feels like my stock ls1 slipping clutch all over again and it has 350 miles on it!
#20
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Originally Posted by m3corvette
I have warned people on the forum before, not to put the LS7 clutch in any car. It will workfine for everyday driving, but not track use. That clutch should not be in the C6 Z, it's junk. GM had to know there was a problem before the car hit the market. I guess they thought the "supercar" would never be used for the 1/4 mile track! I had my clutch in the C6 Z replaced by GM, and they put the same junk back in. It now has an after market stage 4, and so far bullet proof.
Well I want someone to adjust theirs like Terry described and see if that helps you drop the clutch or slip the clutch just launch better overall without having worries of it not grabbing all the way.
It's not like I do much of that stuff but when I want to launch I want to hear the tires spin if anything not have the clutch burn after spending 2 grand for parts and labor.