john_g_46

Installed the Z51 radiator in my Z06 this weekend.

I Filled the radiator with the coolant I had saved when draining the old radiator. I had the hose from the water pump disconnected from the radiator and filled through the overflow line which I had disconnected from the overflow tank (used a funnel jambed into the overflow line and elevated it about a foot above the engine). I filled until coolant started spilling out of the radiator's top hose opening and then re-installed the water pump hose to the radiator. Not all the coolant fit in the radiator. I put the rest in the overflow tank.

Engine is definitely getting hot fast. Coolant in radiator is cool.

Obviously no flow from engine.

What do I need to do to get coolant flowing again?

A427MAN

Sounds like air lock in the system. Did you run it long enough for the thermostat to open?

john_g_46

I'm sure that it's air lock. As soon as I start the car the message says engine hot, turning AC off. The heads are cool enough that I can keep my hand on them at the moment. Still getting same message.

I don't think there is enough coolant in the engine to reach the thermostat.

Just wondering if there's some way to get some coolant back into the block and heads.

A427MAN

Yeah, run the engine to operating temps so the thermostat opens and circulates! After it cools down enough, remove the cap allowing some pressure to escape, then add more water will it's idling and repeat. I have found in the past that it normally takes a couple times of doing this to get rid of the air lock.

z06Bigbird

It is an air lock. You definitely need to get that air out of there. Run it with cap loose???? I don't know.

Ed

tomato

Call me uninformed, but...Why did you put a Z51 radiator in your Z06???

aaaaa

Corvette1221

I would be careful about using this as a solution to get rid of air lock. While I have personally built and put engines in two of the cars I own I know that when filling with coolant sometimes there are high spots that you need to let breath to get rid of air. But I wouldn't fill these by getting the engine warm. Especially with a aluminum block.

I haven't worked on my Z06 yet, but the general rule that I use is to look for a high spot where you can let the air breath out and/or fill with coolant.

I am sorry I don't have a quick answer for you as I have not looked at the Z06 in detail but it usually is not complicated, but I personally wouldn't run it hot to fill air pockets.

This may have worked for this gentleman, but that doesn't necessarily mean that it won't do engine damage.

john_g_46

After sitting overnight, the air in the block cooled enough to suck coolant back into the block and everything is working fine now.

The Z51 radiator has same coolant cooling capacity as stock Z06 radiator. It also has an oil cooler. Left tank in the Z51 radiator is bigger than the left tank in the Z06 radiator to accomodate the oil cooler.


I started a thread "C6 radiator with integral oil cooler" about 10 days ago. I've been conducting experiments. On cool days, the oil never gets hot in the Z06. There have been days when I've driven 45 minutes to work and my oil temperature never got above 135. With the Z51 radiator, the oil cooler will act as an oil heater on cold days. On hot days and under sporty driving conditions, it provides additional oil cooling capacity.

jvp

Personally, I think you solved a problem that doesn't exist, and potentially put your very expensive LS7 at risk while doing so. Mobil 1 is good at temperatures as low as -50F, so "warming the oil" up isn't really necessary. And the Z06's integrated air-to-oil cooler works wonderfully at the race track, as well as the street (I've tested it both places).

Enjoy your mod. Hopefully the over-temp operations didn't do anything bad to your block.

jas

outnumbered

I don't think anyone has posted any issues with the cooling capacity of the stock set up, even under extreme track use. Why fix something that is broke?

UberR32

That's pretty clever of you to figure this out. I would also be concerned about running cool oil temperatures, as I remember reading some GM information a while back about accelerated wear below normal operating temperatures.