[Z06] Loose connection or ? misfire and Coil error
#1
Melting Slicks
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Loose connection or ? misfire and Coil error
I need help, is there anyone that has experienced this error ?
Started out a few weeks ago on track, it was raining and after a few hours, the car started to hesitate and you could feel it was low on power on the straights and it "misfired"....
I cleared the P0358 code and it was ok for a while, now on Vacation it starts again.
Its on and off, sometimes the car is fine, no bucking or hesitating.
i guess the P0358 has ocurred 5 times, last week.
Yesterday it was getting worse and when i connected PC i got
[ECM] P0300 - Engine Misfire Detected (Old) (History) (Immature)
[ECM] P0352 - Ignition Coil 2 Control Circuit (Immature)
[ECM] P0354 - Ignition Coil 4 Control Circuit (Immature)
[ECM] P0357 - Ignition Coil 7 Control Circuit (Immature)
[ECM] P0358 - Ignition Coil 8 Control Circuit (SES) (History) (Immature)
I changed the coil, the spark plug (on # 8) and all spark plug wires.
Also the little harness right before each coil pack is changed.
So if anyone has a clue on where to start ?
TIA
------------------------------------------------------
I find it hard to believe, but i changed my alternator and problem is solved ???????????
I would bet it was a loose connection or faulty coil/injectors
It behaved so bad in the end, but Alternator still delivered 14.4 volt and i still cant believe it.
BUT if you have my symptoms, try the alternator from a friend and see if it sloves it :-)
Thanks to everyone that helped out
Now i can go and have fun in the green hell, Nurbergring here i come
regards
Rune
Started out a few weeks ago on track, it was raining and after a few hours, the car started to hesitate and you could feel it was low on power on the straights and it "misfired"....
I cleared the P0358 code and it was ok for a while, now on Vacation it starts again.
Its on and off, sometimes the car is fine, no bucking or hesitating.
i guess the P0358 has ocurred 5 times, last week.
Yesterday it was getting worse and when i connected PC i got
[ECM] P0300 - Engine Misfire Detected (Old) (History) (Immature)
[ECM] P0352 - Ignition Coil 2 Control Circuit (Immature)
[ECM] P0354 - Ignition Coil 4 Control Circuit (Immature)
[ECM] P0357 - Ignition Coil 7 Control Circuit (Immature)
[ECM] P0358 - Ignition Coil 8 Control Circuit (SES) (History) (Immature)
I changed the coil, the spark plug (on # 8) and all spark plug wires.
Also the little harness right before each coil pack is changed.
So if anyone has a clue on where to start ?
TIA
------------------------------------------------------
I find it hard to believe, but i changed my alternator and problem is solved ???????????
I would bet it was a loose connection or faulty coil/injectors
It behaved so bad in the end, but Alternator still delivered 14.4 volt and i still cant believe it.
BUT if you have my symptoms, try the alternator from a friend and see if it sloves it :-)
Thanks to everyone that helped out
Now i can go and have fun in the green hell, Nurbergring here i come
regards
Rune
Last edited by Z06Norway; 07-09-2007 at 02:15 PM. Reason: Update FOUND problem
#2
Le Mans Master
Check the spark plug coil connectors on top of the engine. One of them may not be making good contact or burnt? Just a guess and easy to do!
#3
Instructor
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I've this happen several times. Each time it was something to do with the injectors. There is a seperate injector, wire, and connector for each cylinder. I took it into the dealer each time and the first time it seemed that one of the wires was loose. That fixed it for a bit. Then it happenned again, same cylinder, so they replaced the connector. This fixed it for a bit. Then it happenned again and they replaced the injector. This fixed it but it happenned again on another cylinder and they replaced the injector. All has been fine since.
I don't have a code reader but I was getting the yellow engine light coming on. Sometimes it would be intermittent and sometimes it would be on solid for a bit. Eventually it would just be on solid.
Hope this helps,
F&L
I don't have a code reader but I was getting the yellow engine light coming on. Sometimes it would be intermittent and sometimes it would be on solid for a bit. Eventually it would just be on solid.
Hope this helps,
F&L
#4
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Hi Rune,
From reading your post, it appears you have access to a service manual. Is that correct?
If so, there is a section that deals with diagnostic codes. It gives a decision tree for inspecting the likely causes.
I have no independent knowledge of your codes, but have a copy of the service manual. Let me know if you need me to start reading and perhaps email you pdfs of the relevant pages.
Ranger
From reading your post, it appears you have access to a service manual. Is that correct?
If so, there is a section that deals with diagnostic codes. It gives a decision tree for inspecting the likely causes.
I have no independent knowledge of your codes, but have a copy of the service manual. Let me know if you need me to start reading and perhaps email you pdfs of the relevant pages.
Ranger
#5
Melting Slicks
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Hi Rune,
From reading your post, it appears you have access to a service manual. Is that correct?
If so, there is a section that deals with diagnostic codes. It gives a decision tree for inspecting the likely causes.
I have no independent knowledge of your codes, but have a copy of the service manual. Let me know if you need me to start reading and perhaps email you pdfs of the relevant pages.
Ranger
From reading your post, it appears you have access to a service manual. Is that correct?
If so, there is a section that deals with diagnostic codes. It gives a decision tree for inspecting the likely causes.
I have no independent knowledge of your codes, but have a copy of the service manual. Let me know if you need me to start reading and perhaps email you pdfs of the relevant pages.
Ranger
So i was hoping someone had a good hint.
Fast and Lazy seems to been through the same thing, so i guess a new injector is something to look at`?
Right now its been fine for two days, keeping fingers crossed.......
When it failed and ran on 7, it would also ping alot, like it was lean.
Why would it be lean if coil did not fire #8 ?
I thought it then would just through unburnt fuel and air into exhaust ?
Rune
#6
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Hi Rune,
When it happenned to me the first time I was actually at Laguna Seca running an open track day. It seemed to run rough at lower rpms and when I was out on the track I would move the rpms up, hoping to clear out the problem. It naturally ran better at higher rpms, however, there was clearly a loss of power.
In the cases where it was running very rough, I am pretty sure that there was some pinging at lower rpms (below 3000).
The typical symtoms on the successive incidents were that it would run VERY rough and a loss of power. The roughness (running on 7 cylinders) was so bad at times that at a stoplight it sometimes wanted to stall and I had to keep pumping the accelerator to keep it alive.
If your Z is not running rough, you might also check the gas cap. Having a loose or cocked gas cap can cause the "check engine" light to come on. Once corrected, without using a tool to reset it, it can take many start/stop cycles before it is cleared.
BTW, LeMans must have been great to see. I've been to the area, but never the race.
Hope this helps.
F&L
When it happenned to me the first time I was actually at Laguna Seca running an open track day. It seemed to run rough at lower rpms and when I was out on the track I would move the rpms up, hoping to clear out the problem. It naturally ran better at higher rpms, however, there was clearly a loss of power.
In the cases where it was running very rough, I am pretty sure that there was some pinging at lower rpms (below 3000).
The typical symtoms on the successive incidents were that it would run VERY rough and a loss of power. The roughness (running on 7 cylinders) was so bad at times that at a stoplight it sometimes wanted to stall and I had to keep pumping the accelerator to keep it alive.
If your Z is not running rough, you might also check the gas cap. Having a loose or cocked gas cap can cause the "check engine" light to come on. Once corrected, without using a tool to reset it, it can take many start/stop cycles before it is cleared.
BTW, LeMans must have been great to see. I've been to the area, but never the race.
Hope this helps.
F&L
#7
Melting Slicks
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Location: Merritt Island Florida
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Hi Rune,
When it happenned to me the first time I was actually at Laguna Seca running an open track day. It seemed to run rough at lower rpms and when I was out on the track I would move the rpms up, hoping to clear out the problem. It naturally ran better at higher rpms, however, there was clearly a loss of power.
In the cases where it was running very rough, I am pretty sure that there was some pinging at lower rpms (below 3000).
The typical symtoms on the successive incidents were that it would run VERY rough and a loss of power. The roughness (running on 7 cylinders) was so bad at times that at a stoplight it sometimes wanted to stall and I had to keep pumping the accelerator to keep it alive.
If your Z is not running rough, you might also check the gas cap. Having a loose or cocked gas cap can cause the "check engine" light to come on. Once corrected, without using a tool to reset it, it can take many start/stop cycles before it is cleared.
BTW, LeMans must have been great to see. I've been to the area, but never the race.
Hope this helps.
F&L
When it happenned to me the first time I was actually at Laguna Seca running an open track day. It seemed to run rough at lower rpms and when I was out on the track I would move the rpms up, hoping to clear out the problem. It naturally ran better at higher rpms, however, there was clearly a loss of power.
In the cases where it was running very rough, I am pretty sure that there was some pinging at lower rpms (below 3000).
The typical symtoms on the successive incidents were that it would run VERY rough and a loss of power. The roughness (running on 7 cylinders) was so bad at times that at a stoplight it sometimes wanted to stall and I had to keep pumping the accelerator to keep it alive.
If your Z is not running rough, you might also check the gas cap. Having a loose or cocked gas cap can cause the "check engine" light to come on. Once corrected, without using a tool to reset it, it can take many start/stop cycles before it is cleared.
BTW, LeMans must have been great to see. I've been to the area, but never the race.
Hope this helps.
F&L
It would stutter and shake, then if i force her up in higher RPM, somehow it would be better, but loss of power.... could be felt.....
Will try to replace injectors if it comes back.
BTW. LeMans is great, i was there in 2000 and 2005 with GM, and this year was anticlimax, rain. loosing, and no VIP GM lounge :-(
Rune
Rune
#10
Melting Slicks
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Location: Merritt Island Florida
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Hi Rune,
When it happenned to me the first time I was actually at Laguna Seca running an open track day. It seemed to run rough at lower rpms and when I was out on the track I would move the rpms up, hoping to clear out the problem. It naturally ran better at higher rpms, however, there was clearly a loss of power.
In the cases where it was running very rough, I am pretty sure that there was some pinging at lower rpms (below 3000).
The typical symtoms on the successive incidents were that it would run VERY rough and a loss of power. The roughness (running on 7 cylinders) was so bad at times that at a stoplight it sometimes wanted to stall and I had to keep pumping the accelerator to keep it alive.
If your Z is not running rough, you might also check the gas cap. Having a loose or cocked gas cap can cause the "check engine" light to come on. Once corrected, without using a tool to reset it, it can take many start/stop cycles before it is cleared.
BTW, LeMans must have been great to see. I've been to the area, but never the race.
Hope this helps.
F&L
When it happenned to me the first time I was actually at Laguna Seca running an open track day. It seemed to run rough at lower rpms and when I was out on the track I would move the rpms up, hoping to clear out the problem. It naturally ran better at higher rpms, however, there was clearly a loss of power.
In the cases where it was running very rough, I am pretty sure that there was some pinging at lower rpms (below 3000).
The typical symtoms on the successive incidents were that it would run VERY rough and a loss of power. The roughness (running on 7 cylinders) was so bad at times that at a stoplight it sometimes wanted to stall and I had to keep pumping the accelerator to keep it alive.
If your Z is not running rough, you might also check the gas cap. Having a loose or cocked gas cap can cause the "check engine" light to come on. Once corrected, without using a tool to reset it, it can take many start/stop cycles before it is cleared.
BTW, LeMans must have been great to see. I've been to the area, but never the race.
Hope this helps.
F&L
Scanned and saw a new code today.
P0621
So if anyone know where to look, i would be happy for some help :-)
In Denmark right now, sitting in hotell room loooking at F1, Ferrari doing good btw.
Rune
#11
Melting Slicks
Wire cover tear
Check the wire for a tear in the boot. I had that happen when it got caught on my steel header gasket.
#12
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Two bulletins previously posted re DTC code P0621...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...63&postcount=8
Plus:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1692382
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1639153
Ranger
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...63&postcount=8
Plus:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1692382
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1639153
Ranger
#13
Melting Slicks
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Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Merritt Island Florida
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Two bulletins previously posted re DTC code P0621...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...63&postcount=8
Plus:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1692382
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1639153
Ranger
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...63&postcount=8
Plus:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1692382
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1639153
Ranger
Car was great until this track event, and when i get to think about it down here on my Europe trip, the problem often came back after a
little fight with some Exotics
There are quite a few Porsche owners that will limp home and wonder what hit them on German autobahn.... got to love the power these cars make.
Thanks, i will persue this issue with generator when i get home
#14
Melting Slicks
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Location: Merritt Island Florida
Posts: 2,225
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Two bulletins previously posted re DTC code P0621...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...63&postcount=8
Plus:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1692382
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1639153
Ranger
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...63&postcount=8
Plus:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1692382
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1639153
Ranger
As i said in another post, problem seems to be solved by changing out the Alternator
I will wait and see, but for now it seems all problem is gone
funny how new modern electronic can fool you :-)
Thanks Ranger
Rune
#16
Melting Slicks
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Problem NOT SOLVED
Well how long was adam in Eve ?
On my trip down to Nurburgring the same problem came back, car runs like **** and misfires and hesitate and shakes and power is gone.
After 300 miles we stopped and checked plug # 8, all fouled up and
NO spark or just a little spark from Coil # 8.
Ended up unplugging the injector # 8 so i did not fill up exhaust tube with gas all the time (shooting and making loud bang is not funny anymore)
Also oil smelled a little gas.
So here is what i have done so far:
All injectors are new
Coil 8 changed
Alternator changed (thought this solved it, but NOOOOO)
Still get P0358 AND P0621
P0621 has to do with bad ground ? or something ?
My driving starts monday, a three day coarse with BMW Europe, and skilled trainers and no car to drive....
On top of everything i forgot my power adapter so i am soon offline
SO if anyone has a clue on where to start i would be very happy
BIG TIA
Regards
Rune
On my trip down to Nurburgring the same problem came back, car runs like **** and misfires and hesitate and shakes and power is gone.
After 300 miles we stopped and checked plug # 8, all fouled up and
NO spark or just a little spark from Coil # 8.
Ended up unplugging the injector # 8 so i did not fill up exhaust tube with gas all the time (shooting and making loud bang is not funny anymore)
Also oil smelled a little gas.
So here is what i have done so far:
All injectors are new
Coil 8 changed
Alternator changed (thought this solved it, but NOOOOO)
Still get P0358 AND P0621
P0621 has to do with bad ground ? or something ?
My driving starts monday, a three day coarse with BMW Europe, and skilled trainers and no car to drive....
On top of everything i forgot my power adapter so i am soon offline
SO if anyone has a clue on where to start i would be very happy
BIG TIA
Regards
Rune
#17
last week I had some of the same symtoms. Misfire codes along with lean codes. I was hearing detination which I have never heard before on my car. under heavy accel it would surge like I was getting on and off the throttle. I found 2 broken wires in the mass air sensor connector. Tan and red wire were broken but still seamed to be connected. When I pulled on each of them the plastic coating on these 2 would stretch. After repairing wires car runs fine.
By replacing the alternator you may have moved the wires to get them to make contact again. Hope this helps
By replacing the alternator you may have moved the wires to get them to make contact again. Hope this helps
#18
The tech at the dealer just figured out an interesting problem with my Z06. The car would mostly run fine but occasionally would fall on its face, running rough, backfiring, etc. It would usually go away in a 10-20 seconds or a couple of minutes. But sometimes you had to let it sit for an hour. No misfire codes. The first visit to the shop it had a P0131 (HO2S11 Circuit Low Voltage -- replaced O2 sensor) and this last time it was getting P0171 (Fuel Trim System Lean bank 1 -- replaced MAF).
In the end the problem was that some female pins on the center connector of the under hood fuse block were bent, apparently during assembly. Four of them were damaged including power for the bank one coil packs. The tech found this by noticing that when the car was failing there was no spark on any plugs in bank 1. He measured voltage across the primary coil pack circuit and found 2V. When he disconnected the 4 coil packs, it went up to 12V. He reconnected them and was opening the fuse block cover when the engine started running normally. He cut out the bad ones and replaced them. He also replaced the fuse block (might have
been unnecessary but the car is under warranty).
However, the car had run long enough with raw fuel hitting the cat that the cat is destroyed, pieces were actually coming out the exhaust! So on back order is a new bank 1 cat and a new muffler.
In the end the problem was that some female pins on the center connector of the under hood fuse block were bent, apparently during assembly. Four of them were damaged including power for the bank one coil packs. The tech found this by noticing that when the car was failing there was no spark on any plugs in bank 1. He measured voltage across the primary coil pack circuit and found 2V. When he disconnected the 4 coil packs, it went up to 12V. He reconnected them and was opening the fuse block cover when the engine started running normally. He cut out the bad ones and replaced them. He also replaced the fuse block (might have
been unnecessary but the car is under warranty).
However, the car had run long enough with raw fuel hitting the cat that the cat is destroyed, pieces were actually coming out the exhaust! So on back order is a new bank 1 cat and a new muffler.
#19
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
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The tech at the dealer just figured out an interesting problem with my Z06. The car would mostly run fine but occasionally would fall on its face, running rough, backfiring, etc. It would usually go away in a 10-20 seconds or a couple of minutes. But sometimes you had to let it sit for an hour. No misfire codes. The first visit to the shop it had a P0131 (HO2S11 Circuit Low Voltage -- replaced O2 sensor) and this last time it was getting P0171 (Fuel Trim System Lean bank 1 -- replaced MAF).
In the end the problem was that some female pins on the center connector of the under hood fuse block were bent, apparently during assembly. Four of them were damaged including power for the bank one coil packs. The tech found this by noticing that when the car was failing there was no spark on any plugs in bank 1. He measured voltage across the primary coil pack circuit and found 2V. When he disconnected the 4 coil packs, it went up to 12V. He reconnected them and was opening the fuse block cover when the engine started running normally. He cut out the bad ones and replaced them. He also replaced the fuse block (might have
been unnecessary but the car is under warranty).
However, the car had run long enough with raw fuel hitting the cat that the cat is destroyed, pieces were actually coming out the exhaust! So on back order is a new bank 1 cat and a new muffler.
In the end the problem was that some female pins on the center connector of the under hood fuse block were bent, apparently during assembly. Four of them were damaged including power for the bank one coil packs. The tech found this by noticing that when the car was failing there was no spark on any plugs in bank 1. He measured voltage across the primary coil pack circuit and found 2V. When he disconnected the 4 coil packs, it went up to 12V. He reconnected them and was opening the fuse block cover when the engine started running normally. He cut out the bad ones and replaced them. He also replaced the fuse block (might have
been unnecessary but the car is under warranty).
However, the car had run long enough with raw fuel hitting the cat that the cat is destroyed, pieces were actually coming out the exhaust! So on back order is a new bank 1 cat and a new muffler.
Will check that tomorrow, right now she idles ok and runs strong, we went to Opel Frølish and as helpful they where they did not fix here.
We went back ans started pulling all wires off, taking off alternator, opened fusebox (almost opened and then put everything back.
Voila she runs ok.
So it could be the same fuse box or.... i dont know.
BTW, i had my first lap around Nurburgring omg it is unreal,,, i mean all the video and films i have watched does not give this track credit.
IT IS AWSOME, the way camber change, elevation change, hight difference etc.
I met a nice guy in a Yellow 2006 Z06, he asked if i would sit in one lap, and i said ok.
Turns out he is a professional driver in VLN, 6 hour and 24 hour race on the ring, for BMW team.
He drives a complete lap around 8 min in his stock Z06, BTG is around 27 second more for those who would compare times done on public days
So my course starting monday seem to be exciting :-)
Hope the car holds up
Rune