0C5stein

Sometimes, even if you can open the door partially, it is alot easier to get in and out if your window is down. That isn't a big deal for an enclosed trailer, but it is an issue for open trailer towing. Especially in poor weather, or if you are leaving your car on a trailer at a hotel overnight. For that we sell a "Window valet", which allows you to roll your window up or down with your alarm key fob. We usually have them in stock.

The T hooks are a straight foward deal, but the fact that I need to tie down so many different cars on (in) my trailer, quite often I can't use them. In that case, you can run a strap through the wheel (which I don't like, but have had to do on a few occations. Or you can loop the strap through the lower control arms. I know that there are a bunch of guys that will jump on here and say "Don't do that, it will through your alignment off", but the fact that I always cross the straps, the loops are actually pulling against the suspension cradles, and they are not going anywhere. I've even tested the theory of buggering up an alignment by aligning a car, towing it with straps going through lower control arms and then rechecking the alignment, and there was no change at all.

I don't like strapping the cars down by the wheels as it doesn't limit the suspension travel and tends to tow like a horse trailer with a couple of entergetic horses inside. I've seen straps over tires fall off durring towing, where the guy didn't quite route the straps correctly. It is fine when done correctly, but there is greater possibility for error.

0C5stein

Here is a link for the window valet.

http://www.motorsportimage.com/pc-69...dow-valet.aspx

urslooow

are there any specific size T-hooks to be used?

Anyone have a foto of the T hook engaged to the frame slot?

ZPO

Check this post with info on the t-hooks and straps.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...10&postcount=3
There are several different types of hooks but the standard t-hooks work great. (The hooks are inserted at a 90 degree angle to the slot and then rotated). Sorry I don't have a photo of them inserted.

SidePipeMusic

I have a question on this. I searched for tips on towing, and this thread addressed many of my questions. I'm not going to need to tow more than once a year. I'll get the Titan straps. I have a friend who has an "open car hauler" trailer that I can use. I happen to be in the waste industry, so I have access to good welders. Is there any reason a normal car trailer won't work if I have my welders make up some long ramps? I'm still young/agile enough to climb out the back if I can't get out of the door. Pls. advise.

razerwire

I have enclosed trailer and haul buckshot sand car, 427 cobra, corvette, street rods, and more in it. The winch has a remote switch and I walk along with car as its pulled inside, this means I can stop and check progess and turn wheel as needed. Along with winch bolted to trailer, I have a tongue jack and I raise the frount of trailer a little, this keeps winch cable tight, and makes more clearance for frount of car. If its still a problem will pull trailer into street and put ramp door on sidewalk, with car to be loaded on driveway,have loaded some low cars, no problem.

SidePipeMusic

ttt

SidePipeMusic

C'mon now... Please!

ZPO

It sometimes depends on the configuration of the trailer. I have a tilt bed trailer that doesn't use ramps but I end up backing the Z06 on and using some extra wood pieces stacked double to help it up. When I back mine up the doors clear the trailer wheels better but don't forget about the amount of tongue weight required. Too much will cause the tow rig to squat and to little tongue weight can cause trailer sway and instabilty.
One idea is to load from a slight incline which helps the load angle a bit. A slight driveway or or change of grade often helps, heck, I've even seen folks back the end of the trailer just over the edge of a curb to load several cars. Also, remember you can crank the trailer jack up to help with the angle as well, just remeber to retract it before you move the rig. I have seen people use a rolling floor jack under the trailer hitch to achieve a little clearance as well.
Some trailers have a tapered off end section which helps the car starting up on the trailer but sometimes lowered cars want to snag midways between the wheels. I would just borrow the trailer and spend some time with your load and secure sequence until you have it perfected. Try it nose first but don't forget the rear end has less overhang and you may be able to load it that way. Hope this helps somewhat.

SidePipeMusic

Thanks, ZPO. I have not seen the trailer yet, but know its long enough to hold a Suburban. (They said that they'd hauled one before on it). So given this, and my aforementioned easy access to welding, wouldn't it make sense for me to have some ramps made just a bit shorter than the trailer itself to keep the "access rake" down? I could just have some brackets made to store the ramps on their side against the trailer wheel fenders. Eh?

AU N EGL

Northern Tool has them. any tow truck supply has them too





Getting in and out of the drivers window is not difficult. Just takes a little contortion work

I am 6-2 200 lbs. I do leave my windows down inside the trailer.



If your looking at an open trailer get one with a removable left fender, and use 2" wood risers for the front wheels.

JSmitty

FYI

It appears that some of the newer chassis are no longer using t-hooks. Due to too many reports of problems with chassis and suspension in transit, all Corvettes, and moving into all GM vehicles, are being tied down by the wheels for transport from the factory.

Were the slots put in by the engineers? Yes. Did they use them for years? Definitely. Is the factory using them now? No.

It took me three days and a dozen calls to the Bowling Green facility, ending up with the truck line that owns the contract to deliver new Corvettes to come up with this answer last week.

Jeremy Smith
Systems Designer
Mac's Custom Tie Downs

PS - Thanks for the mention on page one of this thread - it's always great to see satisfied customers!

jlutherva

Does anyone have a Featherlite 3110 17 1/2 footer? From the pics I've seen, they don't seem to have a dovetail. What sort of contortions are required to load a C6Z on one of these? They come with 6' ramps.


Jim

JSmitty

jluherva -

If you have any problems with the rocker panels touching as you come up to the crest of the ramps, consider these instead of boards:

Race Ramps

Also, if you have d-rings near the corners of your trailer, consider this tie-down package:

Mac's Pro Pack

Other than that, I don't think you will have any unusual need to contort.

Jeremy Smith
Systems Designer
Mac's Custom Tie Downs

0C5stein

I was reading an article in a racing magazine and the author made an interesting comment. He said that he can see the value of crossing the rear straps as it keeps the car from moving from side to side durring towing, however he has seen occations where one of the straps failed and the other strap pulled the car over, causing it to contact the side of the trailer. He then recommended attaching the rear straps parallel to the centerline of the car rather than crossing.

I personally like to cross the rears, but I'll be keeping a watchful eye to the condition of the straps, and the tie down points.

Mark

Superbee

Tow with your car in neutral, there has been more then one broken crankshaft from towing in gear and straps to loose.
T-hooks and crossed straps work great, if you use straps that are ready to break and your car hits the fenders you deserve what you get.
A winch is the ultimate setup for getting your car on a trailer, especially if there could be a instance of the car not being able to run.

Good luck

JSmitty

Got pics from a customer last week, showing his Viper running board after hundreds of miles rubbing against the trailer wheel well. This strap didn't fail, the user just pulled all the slack out of the straps before tightening, and didn't get two full wraps around the mandrel of the ratchet - the minimum required for a mechanical lock.

If he had run the straps back instead, losing one would have kept securing the car instead of pulling it to the side.

0C5stein

It is suprising how few people know about two full wraps around the mandrel. I've lost count of how many cars have showed up at my shop on a trailer and the straps had slipped because of this. The other mistake that is almost as prevelent is having too many wraps around the mandrel and the ratchet lock is nearly released because the excess strap material won't let the lock fully engage.

PatriotZ

What a great forum...I am continuely impressed by the knowledge that is shown when someone needs some help. good job guys

jlutherva

No pics since I just got the trailer, however here are some trailer shopping tips:
1. Get a trailer with 6' ramps minimum.
2. Get a trailer with torsion axles, they are lower than a trailer with leaf springs. Mine is 19.5-inches.
3. Make sure the trailer has 4-wheel brakes (safety).
4. A dovetail helps but is not necessary.
5. Build some wooden pre-ramps to go under the trailer ramps. A 3-in rise will work.
6. Install a winch, even a hand winch will work. This saves the clutch for the track!
7. For loading, raise the front of the trailer as much as possible with the tow vehicle still attached.
8. Drive the Z halfway up the ramp and stop. Let the winch do the rest.
My Z is not lowered and I have only minimal air dam scraping during loading.

Happy shopping!
Jim