Street gear

I am going to install a new can in my LS7 and need the following answered:

1. How does one line up the cam? Is it simply lining up the 2 dots? Cam at 6 o'clock and crank at 12 o'clock?

2. Some cam sellers want you to run their cam at +4. How is that done? Do I have to buy an offset key or is there a special timing chain I need?

3. In an article on cam install I saw something requiring the oil pan to be lowered 2". Why is that necessary?

4. Does the air condition condensor have to be removed?

tjwong

Just line up the dots like any old school SBC.

When using the stock gears there is nothing you can really do about phasing the cam other than lining the dots up. So don't worry about +4 degrees etc, as that usually means that there is 4 degs of built in advance in the cam when the cam grinder ground the cam. As of now there are no offset gear sets available unless Cloyes has released their LS7 timing sets.

I have never had to drop the oil pan, some people install the cam by dropping the K frame down 2 inches to gain access to the balance bolt for removal of the bolt and balancer, I remove the steering rack which gives me EASY access to everything. Also the radiator and the condenser has to be removed to get the cam out, I drain the AC system and remove it, some I have heard raises it out of the way, for me its a PITA, I just take it out and recharge the system later.

Street gear

Thanks TJwong further to the above can you clarify the following

1. How to release the pressure from the AC. Is there a release valve or do I simply crack the lines and let it all leak out?

2. I know in regards to lining up the dots in the old day with distributors you can be 180 degrees out if the dots are not line up during the number one compression stroke. Since these are electronic motors with no distributor do I still need to find number 1 cylinders? Can you confirm once again crank at 12 0' clock and cam at 6 o' clock. Someone told me both at 12 o' clock which does not seem right.

DSteck

1. Yes, you line up the marks. 12:00 on the crank sprocket, 6:00 on the cam sprocket. I used a paint pen and marked the chain itself along with the crank and cam sprockets before I took it apart, just to be sure. This was just me being extra careful, and is totally up to you.

2. When you see the LSA and then +#... all that means is that a few degrees of advance are ground into the cam. You should always just line up the cam gear appropriately.

3. I did not lower the oil pan. You just have to be very careful when taking the oil pump off and putting it back on. Don't force it, and don't rush it. It will gently slide back into place... just don't get impatient. The last thing you want to do is rip the gasket, because then you WILL be taking the oil pan down.

4. Does it HAVE to? No. Should you? Yes. It's a lot easier to just have it out of the way.

For your other post...

1. Take your car to a shop or something and have them release the refrigerant. They can recover it that way. You shouldn't just let it release into the atmosphere because that's irresponsible, refrigerant is corrosive to paint, and the shop might be willing to recharge it for cheap if they don't have to use their own refrigerant.

2. Whoever told you both at 12:00 is on crack and shouldn't touch an LSX. Do yourself a favor and head to www.robs427.com to read the installation instructions. There are electronic sensors that detect not only crank position, but also cam position. The engine doesn't know the difference between cylinder 1 being at TDC between the exhaust and intake stroke, and cylinder 1 being at TDC between the compression and combustion stroke. It uses the cam position to determine what stage each cylinder is in.



FYI, I opted to lower the engine cradle instead of removing the power steering rack.

Just Enough

Do you need to remove the oil pump to change out the cam? Or did you do this to make seeing the alignment dots easier.

dvandentop

check out this website it is pretty much same as ls7

www.ls1howto.com

also yes lowering cradle is way easier then moving steering rack

DSteck

You need to take the oil pump off so you can remove the chain tensioner.

Street gear

This is excellentthis is what the forum is about. Thanks for all the input.

patton

you need to get the helms manuals [just disregard where it says to pull motor to rnr cam] so you have tq specs

DSteck

Or, just get them here:

http://www.davidfarmerracing.com/C6-Torque-Manual.PDF

tjwong

It would be best to take your car to recover the refrigerant, or you can be a TOXIC AVENGER and attach a set of gauges to the system and just let it go into the atmosphere, but that isn't the right way to do it.

As for removing the oil pump, I loosen the oil pan bolts 1 turn, that will drop the oil pan down about.080 or a tad more, there is no need to loosen the rear most bolts that go across the back of the pan just in front of the bell housing. Doing this well prevent you from cutting the delicate O Ring seals that the oil pump seals against. With the pan loosened, the oil pump will slide off the crank gear easily. When the pan bolts are all tight, the sealing O Rings are compressed against the bottom of the oil pump, and removing the pump in that fashion you can risk cutting the O Ring and the engine will see reduced oil pressure and if its cut that would necessitate pan removal.

Also be aware of the oil pump bolt sleeves that are in the bolt holes in the oil pump, these need to be reinstalled when the pump is reinstalled.

Incidentally you can line the crank dot at 12 and the cam at 12, this is at number 1 firing position. But doing it this way, you had better be damn sure that both are exactly at those points, lining them at 12 and 6 is much easier to make sure that the dots are lined up. In this position the engine is at number 6 firing position, roll the crank 180 degs and you will see it at 12 and 12 for number 1 up to fire. You could line it up either way, but 12 and 6 is best because you can see that the dots are opposite each other and its just easier to see, especially for us older guys whose vision is less than perfect

Street gear

Sorry went to the site but could not find the torque spec for the C6. Please advise where to look?

J HEBERT

I have always loosened the pan bolts, but last tuesday I did not, and I cut the damn rubber on the pan gasket I felt it when it happened

And yeah, I remove the front cradle bolts and loosen the rear (bottom) and w. front tires removed I unbolt the upper arms and upper shock nuts. Off the balancer comes.

dvandentop

gotta take the bolts off the engine mount also to get the cradle low enough

DSteck

I chamfered the edge of the oil pump before putting it back on. Just took a file and gave it a pass or two to get rid of the sharp machined edge.

J HEBERT

Great idea! Where the hell were u last tuesday?

DSteck

Playing Left 4 Dead.

Street Gear... I'll try finding that torque spec .pdf file, but I can't promise anything. I downloaded it a while ago and printed it out. The only important stuff you need to know is that almost every bolt on the front of the engine is 18 ft-lbs, the rocker arms are 22 ft-lbs, and the crank bolt is 35 ft-lbs + 140º.

patch68

My07C6

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...que-specs.html

Street gear

Here is the David Farming address:

http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/C6Z06-Torque.pdf