[Z06] Ouestion: Dual purpose suspension upgrade for both drag racing and road course.
02-16-2009, 06:55 AM
#1
Melting Slicks
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Ouestion: Dual purpose suspension upgrade for both drag racing and road course.
Just as the title says I'm looking for a dual purpose suspension upgrade for my 07 Z06. Ever since going to Autobahn CC and meeting my friend Mike " Short Throw" who so graciously took my son and I under his wing and gave us some driving tips and helped set us up with Kevin their pro instructor for some driving lessions...well I guess you could say " We are Hooked" 
I love the experience of driving on a road course and can't wait for this season to begin and get back to it, BUT I also can't dismiss that both myself and my son ( BTW we do the car thing together ) also love to drag race and I have been doing upgrades as mentioned to the engine last year for more power ( cam, header and all the bolt -ons) and would now like to address the suspension and other upgrades that will help me improve my times/driving on both types of tracks. I have just a few upgrades left to do for the drag strip like half shafts, wheels and DR's. I will probably need a new clutch upgrade as well once the car starts to hook up better and I'm pretty sure the clutch upgrade will better serve better in both types of racing environments so that is a big plus!
The question I have is, as far as a suspension upgrades goes I know form my past experience with Drag racing that although some coilovers work great to improve handling on a road course they can hurt your times on a drag strip. I have been looking at the Pfadt coilovers and was thinking of having them installed this year. Does anybody have experience with both types of racing and could offer some advice on a suspension set that will work on both tracks without sacrificing performance in either area?
It would be much appreciated guys!
I love the experience of driving on a road course and can't wait for this season to begin and get back to it, BUT I also can't dismiss that both myself and my son ( BTW we do the car thing together ) also love to drag race and I have been doing upgrades as mentioned to the engine last year for more power ( cam, header and all the bolt -ons) and would now like to address the suspension and other upgrades that will help me improve my times/driving on both types of tracks. I have just a few upgrades left to do for the drag strip like half shafts, wheels and DR's. I will probably need a new clutch upgrade as well once the car starts to hook up better and I'm pretty sure the clutch upgrade will better serve better in both types of racing environments so that is a big plus! The question I have is, as far as a suspension upgrades goes I know form my past experience with Drag racing that although some coilovers work great to improve handling on a road course they can hurt your times on a drag strip. I have been looking at the Pfadt coilovers and was thinking of having them installed this year. Does anybody have experience with both types of racing and could offer some advice on a suspension set that will work on both tracks without sacrificing performance in either area?
It would be much appreciated guys!
02-16-2009, 01:02 PM
#3
Former Vendor
Well the first step is to get the wheels to stay in the right direction. The rear bushing offer a nice ride down the road, but under hard launches and coming out of hard corners. The tires can pull a bunch, resulting in toe change plus causing wheel hop and other strange feelings.
Drag racing the IRS suspension you will hear two different answers.
1. Run a stiff setup to allow the tires to dig into the ground. Less camber change and suspension travel (going foward vs going down first)
2. Run a super soft, so the car has more weight transfer. More weight on the rear tires.
Road racing you will hear a few different answers also.
1. Run a stiff setup for less roll, less dive and keeps the car flatter.
2. Run a softer car, for more transfer of weight to the corner of the car that is doing the work. Easier on tires in the long run.
Street car you want something not super stiff. Unless you like being pounded on driving down the road.
My point is, you guys are just starting out. Don't get into a firm setup, it maybe a little faster on some corners. But overall you will be happier with something softer. Don't get too far off your already good handling car. Just remember you can go backwards with some "upgrades". With that said, I'm willing to bet you would be more then happy with our revalved Bilstein shock and a set of lower rear control arm bushings.
Randy
www.dougrippie.com
Drag racing the IRS suspension you will hear two different answers.
1. Run a stiff setup to allow the tires to dig into the ground. Less camber change and suspension travel (going foward vs going down first)
2. Run a super soft, so the car has more weight transfer. More weight on the rear tires.
Road racing you will hear a few different answers also.
1. Run a stiff setup for less roll, less dive and keeps the car flatter.
2. Run a softer car, for more transfer of weight to the corner of the car that is doing the work. Easier on tires in the long run.
Street car you want something not super stiff. Unless you like being pounded on driving down the road.
My point is, you guys are just starting out. Don't get into a firm setup, it maybe a little faster on some corners. But overall you will be happier with something softer. Don't get too far off your already good handling car. Just remember you can go backwards with some "upgrades". With that said, I'm willing to bet you would be more then happy with our revalved Bilstein shock and a set of lower rear control arm bushings.
Randy
www.dougrippie.com
02-16-2009, 11:58 PM
#4
Safety Car
Randy,
You've answered some questions last week.Thanx again.I've got one more.I lost my Tob and slave in 1600 miles after it was installed.I tore it down.Couldn't really find a cause for this.As I see it the TOB is loaded on the Presure plate fingers at all time?Or when the clutch pedal is released does it pull the TOB away from the fingers? I 've got a ram dual disc with a brand new TOB slave,pilot bearing and torque tube.Both bearings were out of the old torque tube.Thanx Tom Sorry for the hijack on this thread
You've answered some questions last week.Thanx again.I've got one more.I lost my Tob and slave in 1600 miles after it was installed.I tore it down.Couldn't really find a cause for this.As I see it the TOB is loaded on the Presure plate fingers at all time?Or when the clutch pedal is released does it pull the TOB away from the fingers? I 've got a ram dual disc with a brand new TOB slave,pilot bearing and torque tube.Both bearings were out of the old torque tube.Thanx Tom Sorry for the hijack on this thread
02-17-2009, 12:30 AM
#5
Former Vendor
Randy,
You've answered some questions last week.Thanx again.I've got one more.I lost my Tob and slave in 1600 miles after it was installed.I tore it down.Couldn't really find a cause for this.As I see it the TOB is loaded on the Presure plate fingers at all time?Or when the clutch pedal is released does it pull the TOB away from the fingers? I 've got a ram dual disc with a brand new TOB slave,pilot bearing and torque tube.Both bearings were out of the old torque tube.Thanx Tom Sorry for the hijack on this thread
You've answered some questions last week.Thanx again.I've got one more.I lost my Tob and slave in 1600 miles after it was installed.I tore it down.Couldn't really find a cause for this.As I see it the TOB is loaded on the Presure plate fingers at all time?Or when the clutch pedal is released does it pull the TOB away from the fingers? I 've got a ram dual disc with a brand new TOB slave,pilot bearing and torque tube.Both bearings were out of the old torque tube.Thanx Tom Sorry for the hijack on this thread
Look at the old bearing and the fingers on the clutch very closely. The shinny spots will tell the whole story if the bearing was riding nicely on the fingers or not.
There is free space inbetween the TOB and the fingers.
Wait a minute, this turned into a long post to a clutch question in a suspension thread.
Randy
763-477-9272
02-17-2009, 12:33 AM
#6
Le Mans Master
02-17-2009, 12:48 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
The answer to your question would be a set of COILOVERS that you can adjust both compression and rebound - amazingly I have a set for sale - EIBach - Callaways that are three months old - if your interested PM for a REASONIBLE shipped price - they retail for $3000 new.
One nice feature about the system is that you can change settings in a few minutes - front adjustments are made from in the hood area and rear you can do just by lifting the *** end up so you can slide under the car to turn adjuster - they have 10 settings on both compression and rebound.
You'll be able to set the car up to climb a mountain if you want!
These should give you an idea about where the system is mounted.
One nice feature about the system is that you can change settings in a few minutes - front adjustments are made from in the hood area and rear you can do just by lifting the *** end up so you can slide under the car to turn adjuster - they have 10 settings on both compression and rebound.
You'll be able to set the car up to climb a mountain if you want!
These should give you an idea about where the system is mounted.
02-17-2009, 03:38 AM
#8
Melting Slicks
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Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Rochester NY
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Well the first step is to get the wheels to stay in the right direction. The rear bushing offer a nice ride down the road, but under hard launches and coming out of hard corners. The tires can pull a bunch, resulting in toe change plus causing wheel hop and other strange feelings.
Drag racing the IRS suspension you will hear two different answers.
1. Run a stiff setup to allow the tires to dig into the ground. Less camber change and suspension travel (going foward vs going down first)
2. Run a super soft, so the car has more weight transfer. More weight on the rear tires.
Road racing you will hear a few different answers also.
1. Run a stiff setup for less roll, less dive and keeps the car flatter.
2. Run a softer car, for more transfer of weight to the corner of the car that is doing the work. Easier on tires in the long run.
Street car you want something not super stiff. Unless you like being pounded on driving down the road.
My point is, you guys are just starting out. Don't get into a firm setup, it maybe a little faster on some corners. But overall you will be happier with something softer. Don't get too far off your already good handling car. Just remember you can go backwards with some "upgrades". With that said, I'm willing to bet you would be more then happy with our revalved Bilstein shock and a set of lower rear control arm bushings.
Randy
www.dougrippie.com
Drag racing the IRS suspension you will hear two different answers.
1. Run a stiff setup to allow the tires to dig into the ground. Less camber change and suspension travel (going foward vs going down first)
2. Run a super soft, so the car has more weight transfer. More weight on the rear tires.
Road racing you will hear a few different answers also.
1. Run a stiff setup for less roll, less dive and keeps the car flatter.
2. Run a softer car, for more transfer of weight to the corner of the car that is doing the work. Easier on tires in the long run.
Street car you want something not super stiff. Unless you like being pounded on driving down the road.
My point is, you guys are just starting out. Don't get into a firm setup, it maybe a little faster on some corners. But overall you will be happier with something softer. Don't get too far off your already good handling car. Just remember you can go backwards with some "upgrades". With that said, I'm willing to bet you would be more then happy with our revalved Bilstein shock and a set of lower rear control arm bushings.
Randy
www.dougrippie.com
Thanks Randy for your input I'll give you a call!
02-17-2009, 03:39 AM
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,030
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Received 0 Likes
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The answer to your question would be a set of COILOVERS that you can adjust both compression and rebound - amazingly I have a set for sale - EIBach - Callaways that are three months old - if your interested PM for a REASONIBLE shipped price - they retail for $3000 new.
One nice feature about the system is that you can change settings in a few minutes - front adjustments are made from in the hood area and rear you can do just by lifting the *** end up so you can slide under the car to turn adjuster - they have 10 settings on both compression and rebound.
You'll be able to set the car up to climb a mountain if you want!
These should give you an idea about where the system is mounted.
One nice feature about the system is that you can change settings in a few minutes - front adjustments are made from in the hood area and rear you can do just by lifting the *** end up so you can slide under the car to turn adjuster - they have 10 settings on both compression and rebound.
You'll be able to set the car up to climb a mountain if you want!
These should give you an idea about where the system is mounted.
PM sent with questions.
Thanks
