'06 Quicksilver Z06

This thread is a sequel to my "Whats the racket all about" thread, whereby I used a heavier shift ****, the A6 Leopard, to control the rattling issue sometimes associated with the previous model of the MGW Shifter.

This time I am using the new MGW 30% shifter, mounted in the base C6 shifter box.

Conclusion: Using the base C6 shift box, which has rubber bushings, for vibration dampening, along with the new MGW 30% shifter, in my Z06, resulted in significant improvement in noise reduction and rattle, over my prior setup using the old 30% MGW shifter and a heavy billet steel ****.

For those considering a short throw shifter for the C6 Z06, I highly recommend this setup using the MGW and the base C6 Shift box.




I have a few ***** which I have used from time to time in my Z06 with the prior model of the MGW shifter. Among them, the MGW race ****, and the MGW Gripper ****, the A6 Leopard, which is seen in the thread above, and the Stock ****.

In recent days, I have decided to go back to the stock **** for appearance sake. Of all the *****, the stock **** fits the rest of the decor of the car best.

Furthermore, as the weather warms up, the solid billet steel of the A6 Leopard in turn heats up, and can become hot to handle if the car has been parked out from underneath the garage for awhile.

However using the stock **** with the prior MGW, led to a significant rattling issue, especially at higher RPMs and in lower gears when the car and the shifter were "cold", ie car had not been driven for a half hour or more.

There was also the buzzing noted from the stock **** when in the hand. I am not always in race mode and tend to drive around town with my hand on the shifter.

The buzzing from the stock ****, which could be changed in frequency when cupping the ****, was enough to drive me to the Leopard in the first place.

The MGW 30% though, was precise, and a pleasure to use. The buzzing and rattling with the stock **** was annoying. This issue tends to happen in the Z06 more so than in the base cars, I believe that I read somewhere.

I decided to try the base C6 shift box, with the rubber insulation, and the new MGW shifter.

George still allows the $100.00 exchange if you have the old one, and the base C6 Shift box and shifter can be had from GM Parts Direct for $111.31 plus shipping, item #25823572 (Transmission Shift Control ). It will come with a stock shifter attached to it, but of course not the stock shifter ****.

The new version of the MGW is described in other posts, along with pictures. It is a redesign of the one prior.

The following sequence of pics from forum member Gotcha, below, and quoted from another thread shows the differences in the shift boxes.

A few pointers on the install if they have not been gone over already.

1. After removal of the old MGW shifter, I reinstalled the stock shifter. And then removed the shift box and the shifter as a unit.

2. The large Torx screws holding the shift box in place do not have loctite on them. Take your time and remove all three of them and gently move the shifter and box sligtly forward holding up on the connecting rod going towards the rear of the car and to the transmission. The shifter apparatus should come out rather easily. Hold up that rod with your fingers.

3. Forum member Zoxxo points this out. You want to install the new C6 shifter box with the new stock shifter still in place on the box and as a unit. Feed the rear rod on the shifter box into the connection going to the transmission linkage.

Work the box until the two holes at the torque tube line up passively.

4. Bolt the box down with the Torx screws. The rubber will start to spread out. Get them down tight, but don't over torque them. Loctite is not needed.

5. At this point, the "L" shaped pin at the front of the shifter box, should be pulled with a pair of needle nosed pliers or channel locks.

With this pin in place, you cannot move the stock shifter. This pin is in place during shipping. On my original stock Z06 shifer, the pin had been pulled up, but not completel out. I pulled this one completely out, as there is no use for it.

This pin is in place so that the stock shifter does not move from side to side or front to back when you are installing the box. That pin helps to line everything up.

6. Installing the entire shift apparatus with that pin in place , your gears should also be "in place". In other words, you should have no trouble hitting reverse, or any other gear. Give things a dry run to make sure that you can hit every gear with the stock C6 shifter.

7. Now remove the stock C6 Shifter only, and swap in the new MGW. As mentioned before, the new shifter brackets for the stock ****, now have a rubber or nylon coated end, and a rubber gasket to help dampen vibration. These improvements coupled with the rubber in the C6 Shift box, kill vibration and rattling.

http://www.mgwltd.com/corvette_short..._shifter.shtml (the old configuration is shown in the pic showing the entire shifter. The new threaded and non threaded shifter brackets have the rubber washer near the bottom.

My stock **** was already filled with RTV from before, and I could still get it down to the top hole on the new shifter bracket.

8. A couple of tips on reinstalling the console. Turn the console over. Take the rubber foam with the two cup holder openings in it and put it into the console lining up the cup holder openings. Compress it down good into the console.

Plug as many of the connections as you can back up, before beginning the final positioning of the console. You don't want to get the console damn near down, and not be able to get your fingers in and a good view of the connections. Plug stuff in with the console up as high as the wiring will let you.

Review:

In my efforts, I was actually trying to create conditions under which I knew that knock, rattle and buzzing would be more apt to occur.

Buzzing in the stock ****, is completely gone. Under all conditions that I tried to illicit it. Even if you try and cup your hand around the **** in an effort to hear buzzing, you still can't.

Rattling at high rpms ie 4000 and up, and when cold is drasticaly reduced, but in my car not completely eliminated. It is so slight as to be negligable. You won't notice it unless you are actually looking for it as I was. Were someone else test driving my car, they would not notice it. When the car has warmed, it does not happen at all.

Even with the heavier solid billet steel Leopard, at higher RPMs and when cold, I would get just a tad of knock or rattle. The Leopard had eliminated most of it.

With the new shift box and shifter, this is a significant improvement, even over the Leopard, and the advantage is that it is with the stock ****. But there is still just a hair of rattle left if you take off in first and run it on up and over about 4000 RPM when cold. Something you probably shouldn't be doing anyway unless you want to run the risk of breaking a valve spring.

Overall, if you have a Z06 and have the rattling issue, then the shift box and the new shifter is the answer.

The shifter shifts just as good and as precise as the prior version, and of course with no slop.

The shift box, with the insulating rubber, and the new shifter design with the additional rubber insulation make this a clear improvement over what we had, and for $100.00 for the exchange, you can't beat it.

Muir

The new shifter w/ the c6 box is not as precise as the z06 box and 30% shifter, but it doesn't rattle at all, so that is the tradeoff.

If I was building a racecar, I would go z06 box + 2nd last gen MGW 30% shifter. For a street car there is no question, c6 box + latest gen MGW shifter is the best solution available.

'06 Quicksilver Z06

You know initially, I actually thought it was me, and thought to myself, you know, this doesn't seem quite as precise as what I just took out.

But I dismissed that thought and chalked it up to being "psychological" or a result of having used that A6 Leopard **** for so long.

Weighing in at over 1lb, once you started that heavy **** moving in one direction, the weight actually assisted in making the shift. Thus it was very precise. Bolt action rifle precise with that ****. This no doubt made my prior shifter feel more precise than anything I had previously used.

In my write up, I say that it is just as precise, but my initial thoughts yesterday were similar to your own.

There is no slop in it though.

If you cut me to the quick, and asked me "using the stock **** only" which one is more precise? I'd have to say that this new one is about 8/10 to 9/10 as precise as what I actually took out.

It will be interesting to see what this new one feels like with my heavy **** on it.

All in all though, this one is close enough for me if I can use any **** I want, including my stock ****, with little to no rattle.

I had also thought about just using the base C6 Shift box with the prior 30% MGW too, but didn't want to have to pull the console again in the event I didn't like that setup.

tjwong

I would bet that even with the C6 box, and the MGW Shifter that it will be more precise than the stock Z shifter and Z box.

Muir

Oh of course, I'm not at all saying the MGW 2.0 (version?) + C6 box is vague or sloppy, its just NOT AS PRECISE as the MGW 1.x versions + Z06 box. It is smoother however, it exhibits no noise, and it is easier to move laterally.

There is overall more flex in the lever, naturally due to the rubber isolators on the C6 box and rubber (I think they're rubber) bushings in the MGW 2.0 design.

Still miles ahead of EVERYTHING else out there. I think this is as good as it gets w/o noise/rattle compromises.

'06 Quicksilver Z06

Yeah, I think the previous version which I sent back, had a heavy centering spring in it.

This made it quite precise, but it required a tad more effort to move laterally to get into first gear. Not that it was hard to get to first, I don't want to give that impression, but I had a couple of occasions where I would take off in 3rd gear, thinking I was in first.

That centering spring, if I'm not mistaken did a few things. First off it made it damn near impossible to miss 3rd gear. Its easy to hit 3rd with this new one too.

Also, again if I'm not mistaken, that spring when it was cold, contributed to some of the increased noise. This was why as the shifter warmed up, whatever slight noise you had with it, decreased.

This new one though does not have that spring from one of the posts I read.

I see what you are saying too Muir.

For the street, this setup is fantastic and the best yet.

With the older version of the 30%, you could just about forget about using the stock **** if you had a Z06 because of the buzz and rattle.

Though it would be interesting to see what the old 30 and the C6 shift box would do, you can get a feel for that by reading the base C6 section. Of course anyone over there with the old 30, was using it in the rubber bushinged shift box.

Some of those folk had noise with the old 30, but many, if not most, did not. The old 30 seemed to cause the most noise in the Z06 and with the stock ****. So I wonder how the old 30 would do in a Z06 with just the C6 shift box. I sort of regret not trying it.

I just got back from a short drive and yes, you are right, its not quite as precise as the old 30%, but its close.

The biggest advantage for me is that I don't have to use a 1lb **** in order to keep things quiet. The old 30% was noiser even with the Race and Gripper *****.

And like you say above, I'll trade off a smidgen of the precision in order to keep things quiet and be able to use whatever **** I want without worrying about noise.

HornZ

I have a 2007 Z, and bought the 'New' model from George at the end of March. I have been following all the MGW related threads, and hoped that the noise problem was finally fixed. After I installed the shifter everything was quiet until about 3800 RPM, and then (under moderate accel) it would vibrate/buzz. I absolutely love the way this thing shifts, and thought I could live with the noise. It has been bothering me a lot lately, and I was really hoping to avoid buying the C6 box. Just today I thought I would pose a question on this forum asking anyone for ideas on how to get this thing quiet (with the stock ****).

I guess I will have to break down and get the C6 box, but I am still thinking that this might NOT totally fix the problem -- but what choice do I have? There will be no way to know until I try.

Quicksilver -- Thank you for posting this information!! Especially the How-to. I still wonder why GM has a different box in the Z in the first place -- did they think the C6 box was not strong enough and built it heavier??

'06 Quicksilver Z06

Get the box. You'll be glad you did. That setup with the new shifter, is the quietest option out there. Though I do want to stress, that in my car, it is still faintly audible if I get on it in first gear.

Zoxxo and Creaseguard says that theirs are dead quiet with this setup at high RPMs in low gears.

I went through some of the same thought processes you went through.

Do I just get the new shifter and stick with the stock Z06 box?

Do I stick with the old 30% and get a new C6 box?

Or do I just replace the old 30% and the Z06 box.

I figured as long as I was in there, then I may as well do all that I could do and do it right the first time. New MGW shifter and base C6 box, with the rubber bushings, and you know that you have done all that there is to do.

The base C6 box is cheap, the best price on it (with of course the shifter attached to it)is from GM Parts direct.

You look at that Z06 box and you know right away that without those rubber busings, there is no way its going to be as quiet as the base C6 box which has the thick rubber bushings.

HornZ

OK --- I'm in. Will order the box and let you know how it turns out. I think this is just the push I needed.

lemans

I have the older MGW, before the revised version came out.

With the stock **** it rattles a bit.

In my case, the 1 pound leopard **** was the solution.

Also, when going with the leopard **** it greatly enhances the precision of the shifter because of the solid weight.

So if keeping the stock **** is not a priority, I would try the leopard **** first before the C6 box.

VetteVinnie

My MGW shifter goes in Wednesday. It's the new design, so hopefully I won't have these problems. Thanks for all the information. Good stuff. I ordered the race **** along with it, but was contemplating using the stock **** for street most of the time. So I will see what this buzzing is all about.

'06 Quicksilver Z06

The Leopard is nice, and a good solution.










The drawback though is that because it is solid billet steel, it holds heat, and it can get hot if the windows are up and its hot outside and the car is sitting in the heat. So hot that it can be too hot to the touch. I used to keep a microfiber towel in the car and put over the **** when this happened to me.

I do plan to try the Leopard with this new setup this fall when the weather cools back down. But in the summer, no.

Are you putting in the box too?

I'm not trying to tell you what to do, but seriously, I wouldn't go to the trouble of putting it in unless you were going to put the base C6 shift box in too.

Especially in light of what HornZ says above whereby he has the new shifter but not the box.

VetteVinnie

I hadn't planned on it. I haven't read this whole thread, but your very first statement was about the old MGW shifter. I just ordered mine this last week with the race ****, so will it have this rattle problem? I guess I need to take the time to read the whole thread. You have a tendency to write novels, and I therefore don't always have time to thoroughly read your posts. I usually just skim them.

EDIT: Okay, I read through both. I guess I will stick to the race **** for now since I already paid for it. If the looks bug me, well, I will cross that bridge when I get there.

Thanks again for the info. I should pay closer attention to your writings as there are many hidden gems.

'06 Quicksilver Z06

Do know, that the Race **** and the Gripper **** are not heavy *****.

They don't weigh in at much more than the stock ****.

Now with the old MGW 30%, I have both the Gripper and the Race. I have used them both.

Both rattled and buzzed with the old 30% shifter, albeit a little less than the stock ****. I filled both the Gripper and the Race with RTV too. But they are not heavy solid steel, so they aren't going to dampen rattle and buzzing like solid billet steel.

The problem is, the shaft of the shifter acts almost like a tuning fork, and vibration comes right up that shaft and into the plastic shift ****.

Thats why you can feel it, and hear it when you have your hand on the ****.

No **** stops or diminishies rattle like a heavy ****. But some of these heavy ***** are quite heavy.

That solid billet steel stops the buzzing and vibration coming from the shaft, and its very stable when you get into the higher rpms in lower gears, this preventing the knocking and rattling you hear with the lighter *****.

The Leopard weighs in at a whopping 1.07 lbs and will definitey dampen vibration, rattling and buzzing coming up through the shaft of the shifter.

That same company makes an even heavier ****, called the Desert Eagle. It weighs in at 1.32 lbs and a member here with the old 30% MGW uses it instead and with good results.

But if he ever takes that **** off.......he'd better be careful not to drop it on his foot.

I write that way for a good reason. Completeness.

I don't know if it will rattle or not without the shift box, but with the shift box, at least you have done all that you can to minimize the chance of any noise.

You don't want to have to remove the console a second time if you can avoid it.

VetteVinnie

Yes, and it's good, but perhaps consider writing Executive style by posting the conclusion(s) first and then post the summary of how you got there for us engineering types.

I agree that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, so I will need to sleep on it. I would hate to drop something in there that perhaps wouldn't hold up to extended track abuse (i.e. base C6 box). As for the noise, to me it would be akin to installing urethane bushings; what you give up in comfort, you make up for in performance.

And the amount of white space you use makes me wonder if you aren't a screenwriter by trade.

'06 Quicksilver Z06

You know, I actually thought about witing it "Executive Style" initially, but in constructing the post, which involved hunting down threads containing the pics since I didn't have any of my own, it totally slipped my mind.

However I will go up now and alter the initial post in said manner.

Thanks for the suggesstion.

MarkRx

call me crazy but it seems my 07 Z doesnt shift as smooth and the throws are longer than my 08 C6 Z51. I have a rattling issue in 2nd gear on my Z between 3000-4000rpm under heavy load. sounds like it's coming from behind the firewall or under the car but behind the radio. I'm wondering if i can kill two birds with one stone to eliminate the rattle (if it is the shifter) and get the crisper shorter throw feel back.

VetteVinnie

The '08Z has a different transmission from the '07 (TR6060 as opposed to the T56). And that rattle is probably the dry sump tank. There's an o-ring in there that has a tendancy to come out of place. Mine has the same noise. I just haven't gotten around to addressing it yet.

MarkRx

I've read about the sump, i dont think it's coming from there. I need to do more research. I know the 08 has the TR-6060 but to have a base c6 shift smoother than a Z? hmpf... Off the top of your head, is the o-ring sump fix a DIY ?

hbutts1

I started with the mgw in my 2008z, had vibration and rattle. Then i changed the box to a c6. I only had some buzzing at high rpm's and under throttle. I lived with it for a couple months and decided to go back stock, what a mistake!!!! It felt like jelly compared to the mgw so I switched back to the c6 box and mgw shifter and will gladly live with a little vibration and buzz at high rpm's!!! The c6 box did not totally eliminate all the buzzing but most of it!! Just my .02 worth since I have changed a couple or three times