NineBall

I had a fun day in the Texas heat today, swapping out my intake manifold just to get you all some actual results.

100% showroom stock 2009 Z06 (mine).

Before and after tests of the new FAST 102mm LSX-R intake manifold.

Just for fun, we also did before/after with the Killer Bee installed too.

http://www.planetlsx.com/news/Dyno_T...ke_Manifold/88

Whew!

I'll be happy to answer any questions.

Tony

venomws7

Great write up Tony those are great gains without a tune.

question did you lose some TQ after the killer bee installation and gaind only 3rwhp??

How was the A/F Ratio with those runs I bet low 11 right??


Oh the car looks freakin awesome with HREs and Intake looks good too.

NineBall

Yeah, the Killer Bee seems to be worth 3-4 rwhp tops. That goes for with and without the LSX-R intake installed.

Don't know the A/F since we didn't use a wideband. No tuning, so no wideband needed. If it is like any other factory tune, they run rich and have pulled timing. I'm sure it would pick up more with a tune, but so would a stock Z06. I'll do a tune later once I install a cam.

Tony

venomws7

Gotcha thanks for the info and comparisons.




Hussam.

Stage Runner

Excellent write up and info. Thanks for sharing......

SR

Shark Racer

Weird. My Z06 put out more hp bone stock than that one did with the LSX-R intake manifold on it..

0Myhardtop

Way to go Tony,

Another Texas car with similar results with the LSXR intake and in the heat too! This Texas heat heat is NO JOKE

Our test vehicle last week, on average, gained 16rwhp and 24rwtq and like you mentioned, the power under the curve tells the entire story. There were areas where we saw over 28rwtq and 22rwhp!!!!

We saw higher numbers here and there, but like with every mods we mess with/test, we like using/posting averages of runs under crappy conditions so when things are favorable, better performance is recognized.

Please keep us posted after your tuning sessions; there is nothing we can do about this heat. Tomorrow we are set to do two more and the forecast calls for more tripple digits temps!

Oh yeah, try cleaning the casting for better performance and future mods.

Congrats again!

Thanks,
Carlos

novaz06

very impressive

NineBall

Its not weird. Just an uneducated assumption. Let me explain. You can't compare dyno numbers from two different dynos. Some are more stingy with result numbers, some are more exaggerated. Understand that a dyno is a tuning tool, and before/after gains (or losses) on the same dyno are the only accurate way of measuring something. Pay attention to the net gains or losses on the same dyno, don't be a "dyno racer fanboy" like so many others. Now, if you drove from CA to TX and did actually use this exact dyno that I did, then congrats on your high horsepower factory monster!

jschindler

Thanks for the info, Tony. Great information from a trusted member

DJ'sZ

Good info and great write up Tony. I've been scratchin' my head reading all the write ups lately on how 'bad' the new FAST intake was until SDPC and you did the comparo.

Great job as usual amigo...

Just had to break the seal didn't ya...ya bastid

Poor-sha

So who's going to be the first to do a step-by-step how to replace your manifold with the FAST unit write-up with lots of pictures?

Katech_Zach

I know a guy who is really good at that.



Nice job Tony. Your results make sense with what we've seen here also. Except for the Halltech Killer Bee results. We saw 12hp on the engine dyno.

bob53

Tony,

Terrific test BTW.

Any chance you want to do a second test comparing different intakes (i.e. Halltech, vs LPE vs Vararam, etc?) You are already "on your way" with the KillerBee results... I think you could have this largely funded by members of the forum.

Bob

Silver05GTO

Excellent writeup!

BLAK REIGN

Nice write up, Now I will definitly sleep easy knowing there is evidence to performance gains in that behemoth of an intake

NineBall

Poor-Sha, the FAST intake comes with written instructions regarding the torque specs and sequence. Should be adequate enough for most people to use. You basically unplug the injectors, fuel line at the rail, remove a series of snap-on PCV tubes, unplug the throttle body, MAP sensor, brake booster hose. Then remove the OEM intake, swap over the injectors and throttle body, install the intake on the engine, then install the LS3 fuel rail (it blocks the mounting screws of the intake). Plug all the stuff back in, done.

Bob, testing those airboxes would be interesting. I'd rather see what a 102mm t-body could do. Maybe do the 102mm and test a few different intakes. Does anyone make an intake for a C6 that can fit a 102mm though?

BADZ

Just like Tony said, "Not all Dyno's are created equal". Just a tool for measurement. What can you say about the other players that have done their own testing on this intake and found that it was not worth the:

1. 1000.00 = intake
2. 500.00 = tuning
3. 500.00 = tb
4 labor = XXX

The gains they (vendors) found were not to be expected. Just curious...

Shark Racer

Thanks, we used a dyno jet as well, with the same SAE correction factors.

Running well, my Z06 put 449 to the rear wheels, bone stock.

After installing Corsa exhaust and a crappy x-pipe that was throwing me into the knock tables, it put down 405rwhp. (it would alternate between in and out of the tables, the car literally felt alive and dead when it was going in and out.)

Then, with a tune, it was bumped to 453 rwhp. I can scan the numbers if you want. I just don't see how there can be such a huge difference on a dynojet here and a dynojet in Texas, especially with the correction factor in place.

Looking at your numbers again, I'd guess your car had <1000 miles on it, and I could believe 431rwhp if that was the case.

449rwhp stock is certainly not a monster Z06, just about every stock dyno run I've seen over here has been over the 440rwhp mark.

You have to understand my wariness with the results - C&L put out a Mustang intake manifold that actually ended up LOSING power.

Tune before/after sheet.

cencalc6

[QUOTE=NineBall;1570724714]Poor-Sha, the FAST intake comes with written instructions regarding the torque specs and sequence. Should be adequate enough for most people to use. You basically unplug the injectors, fuel line at the rail, remove a series of snap-on PCV tubes, unplug the throttle body, MAP sensor, brake booster hose. Then remove the OEM intake, swap over the injectors and throttle body, install the intake on the engine, then install the LS3 fuel rail (it blocks the mounting screws of the intake). Plug all the stuff back in, done.
QUOTE]

what injectors did you use? Great write up