[Z06] Oil Leak
#1
Instructor
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Oil Leak
Have developed an oil leak on my 07 that appears to come from up above the passenger side (front) of the oil pan.....There was oil on the front spring, bottom of the oil pan and most of the oil pan bolts....Has anyone had an oil leak in this general area, identified and fixed it? Thanks
#2
Burning Brakes
Oil pan gaskets are prone to leaking.
Remedy is to remove the oil pan and then use a good bead of RTV silicone gasket sealer on both sides of the new gasket when you reinstall it.
Not an easy job by any means. Need to support the engine from above with a fixture. Then remove the crossmember from under the oil pan. Pull the oil pan, replace the gasket and use the RTV silicone sealent.
Old gasket, you can see the gray stuff is the sealant. This gasket had leaked but was then glued back on with the sealant and then did not leak again.
Oil pan cleaned up and ready to re install.
Remedy is to remove the oil pan and then use a good bead of RTV silicone gasket sealer on both sides of the new gasket when you reinstall it.
Not an easy job by any means. Need to support the engine from above with a fixture. Then remove the crossmember from under the oil pan. Pull the oil pan, replace the gasket and use the RTV silicone sealent.
Old gasket, you can see the gray stuff is the sealant. This gasket had leaked but was then glued back on with the sealant and then did not leak again.
Oil pan cleaned up and ready to re install.
Last edited by Maxx Schlick; 02-24-2010 at 11:45 PM.
#3
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[QUOTE=Maxx Schlick;1573220811]Oil pan gaskets are prone to leaking.
Remedy is to remove the oil pan and then use a good bead of RTV silicone gasket sealer on both sides of the new gasket when you reinstall it.
Not an easy job by any means. Need to support the engine from above with a fixture. Then remove the crossmember from under the oil pan. Pull the oil pan, replace the gasket and use the RTV silicone sealent.
Old gasket, you can see the gray stuff is the sealant. This gasket had leaked but was then glued back on with the sealant and then did not leak again.
Oil pan cleaned up and ready to re install.
[/QUOTE
Thanks very much Maxx, what a big help you are....Also, I support my vette the same as you on my drive on....What brand of bottle jacks are those? Again, thanks
Remedy is to remove the oil pan and then use a good bead of RTV silicone gasket sealer on both sides of the new gasket when you reinstall it.
Not an easy job by any means. Need to support the engine from above with a fixture. Then remove the crossmember from under the oil pan. Pull the oil pan, replace the gasket and use the RTV silicone sealent.
Old gasket, you can see the gray stuff is the sealant. This gasket had leaked but was then glued back on with the sealant and then did not leak again.
Oil pan cleaned up and ready to re install.
[/QUOTE
Thanks very much Maxx, what a big help you are....Also, I support my vette the same as you on my drive on....What brand of bottle jacks are those? Again, thanks
#4
Melting Slicks
Maxx may be 100% right, but check your tranny cooler lines first. My A/C tensioner would slap back and forth getting on/off the gas andwore THROUGH my hard lines in that same area.
A liottle easier fix "IF" its tranny fluid and not motor oil. Good luck!
A liottle easier fix "IF" its tranny fluid and not motor oil. Good luck!
#6
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St. Jude Donor '08
We have been seeing more of these lately. We did 2 last week and 1 this week for oil pan leaks. All of the LSx motors seem to "seep" a little, but once it's leaving drops on the garage floor, it's time to bring it in.
RICH
RICH
#7
Burning Brakes
1.)The new gasket I just got has a bead of black rubber. The original gasket had orange rubber. Other than the color of the rubber, they look the same.
Do you know if the new gasket is an improved version of the old leaky gaskets?
2.) My original gasket leaked straight out of the showroom floor (not too impressive) and was fixed under warranty. They removed the pan and glued the same gasket back in place using a thick bead of Sealant. It did not leak since. Is this the same procedure you guys are doing with the leaky ones that you service?
3.) Manual says use NEW bolts for the crossmember. Do you guys use new or reuse the old?
I asked the local GM parts guy to sell me some new bolts and he said "Nyette". Recomended I run down to Home Depo. When your techs need new bolts do they run down to Home Depo?
4.) How much $$ is an oil pan leak repair?
Last edited by Maxx Schlick; 02-25-2010 at 02:18 PM.
#8
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St. Jude Donor '08
Rich,
1.)The new gasket I just got has a bead of black rubber. The original gasket had orange rubber. Other than the color of the rubber, they look the same.
Do you know if the new gasket is an improved version of the old leaky gaskets?
2.) My original gasket leaked straight out of the showroom floor (not too impressive) and was fixed under warranty. They removed the pan and glued the same gasket back in place using a thick bead of Sealant. It did not leak since. Is this the same procedure you guys are doing with the leaky ones that you service?
3.) Manual says use NEW bolts for the crossmember. Do you guys use new or reuse the old?
I asked the local GM parts guy to sell me some new bolts and he said "Nyette". Recomended I run down to Home Depo. When your techs need new bolts do they run down to Home Depo?
4.) How much $$ is an oil pan leak repair?
1.)The new gasket I just got has a bead of black rubber. The original gasket had orange rubber. Other than the color of the rubber, they look the same.
Do you know if the new gasket is an improved version of the old leaky gaskets?
2.) My original gasket leaked straight out of the showroom floor (not too impressive) and was fixed under warranty. They removed the pan and glued the same gasket back in place using a thick bead of Sealant. It did not leak since. Is this the same procedure you guys are doing with the leaky ones that you service?
3.) Manual says use NEW bolts for the crossmember. Do you guys use new or reuse the old?
I asked the local GM parts guy to sell me some new bolts and he said "Nyette". Recomended I run down to Home Depo. When your techs need new bolts do they run down to Home Depo?
4.) How much $$ is an oil pan leak repair?
1. The new part number gasket is an improved design. The new one is part # 12612350 for LS1,2,3,6 and all truck gas V-8's etc and part number 12612351 for LS7, LS9 and LS3 with dry sump.
2. We ALWAYS use new, factory GM parts when replacing or fixing a failed part, gasket, leak etc.
3. Any bolt that is listed as Torque To Yield (TTY) is ALWAYS replaced. As the bolt is tightened, it is torqued beyond it's "yield point" or "stretch point" and is required to stretch a pre-determined amount. That stretch is part of the clamping force required to reach the desired amount of torque. I do not recommend re-using bolts that are TTY.
I do not source any of my parts from Home Depot. We use GM for everything, just as we are supposed to.
4. The parts are cheap, but the total repair comes in ~ $1k after the cradle is lowered, gasket replaced and a front end alignment is completed. I think book time is 6.0 hours, not counting the alignment.
Hope that helps.
#9
Burning Brakes
1. The new part number gasket is an improved design. The new one is part # 12612350 for LS1,2,3,6 and all truck gas V-8's etc and part number 12612351 for LS7, LS9 and LS3 with dry sump.
2. We ALWAYS use new, factory GM parts when replacing or fixing a failed part, gasket, leak etc.
3. Any bolt that is listed as Torque To Yield (TTY) is ALWAYS replaced. As the bolt is tightened, it is torqued beyond it's "yield point" or "stretch point" and is required to stretch a pre-determined amount. That stretch is part of the clamping force required to reach the desired amount of torque. I do not recommend re-using bolts that are TTY.
I do not source any of my parts from Home Depot. We use GM for everything, just as we are supposed to.
4. The parts are cheap, but the total repair comes in ~ $1k after the cradle is lowered, gasket replaced and a front end alignment is completed. I think book time is 6.0 hours, not counting the alignment.
Hope that helps.
2. We ALWAYS use new, factory GM parts when replacing or fixing a failed part, gasket, leak etc.
3. Any bolt that is listed as Torque To Yield (TTY) is ALWAYS replaced. As the bolt is tightened, it is torqued beyond it's "yield point" or "stretch point" and is required to stretch a pre-determined amount. That stretch is part of the clamping force required to reach the desired amount of torque. I do not recommend re-using bolts that are TTY.
I do not source any of my parts from Home Depot. We use GM for everything, just as we are supposed to.
4. The parts are cheap, but the total repair comes in ~ $1k after the cradle is lowered, gasket replaced and a front end alignment is completed. I think book time is 6.0 hours, not counting the alignment.
Hope that helps.
I will call the other local GM parts guy and see if he will sell me some new bolts for the cross member.
I thought it kinda sad when I asked the GM parts sales guy to sell me some OEM GM bolts, (as recomended in the service manual), and he basicaly told me to (FO) and go buy some crap from home depo.
Are you guys using a sealant on the new gasket as extra insurance against it leaking?
I am planning on running a bead of High Temp RTV silicone gasket sealer on the outer edge of the new gasket.
Old gasket/////////////////////////////////-----------/////////New Gasket
Last edited by Maxx Schlick; 02-25-2010 at 07:01 PM.
#10
Safety Car
Add me to the list, just got the call from the dealer. I thought he might be BS'ing me about the amount of time it would take, but after looking at the photos, he was being straight up.
My warranty expires next month, so I am glad I had this checked.
My warranty expires next month, so I am glad I had this checked.
#11
Le Mans Master
The crossmember bolts are about $50 each. I reuse them. I have also reused the oil pan gasket. Never had a leak after repairs.
#12
Burning Brakes
My crossmember nuts have been torqued and have been reused more than once, so I went ahead and replaced them this go around, just for peace of mind. Didn't want to be hurtling down the backstraight at 160 mph and have it in the back of my mind wondering what would happen if my crossmembers fell off.
Last edited by Maxx Schlick; 03-19-2010 at 10:23 AM.
#13
Le Mans Master
My bolts have been torqued and have been reused more than once, so I went ahead and replaced them this go around, just for peace of mind. Didn't want to be hurtling down the backstraight at 160 mph and have it in the back of my mind wondering what would happen if my crossmembers fell off.
#14
Burning Brakes