- Jack and jack stands
- Lug wrench to take off the wheels
- 21mm socket for the caliper bolts (I used a 13/16")
- Clamp to compress pistons
- Flat head screwdriver
- Allen wrench/sockets for caliper pins (only if your one-piece pads don't need them)
- Mallet, prybar, or hammer to assist with rotor removal
Jack up your car and take off the wheels.
Locate the two big caliper bolts and unbolt them. They're on tight, so it will take some effort. The bolts are marked with red dots in the picture:
Pry off the caliper. The pads are still pressing against the rotor somewhat, so this also takes a bit of force, but you should have no problem doing it by hand.
Make sure the caliper is supported by something (box/brick/etc) so it's not hanging by the brake line. Pry out the padlettes. There are 6 total in each front caliper and 4 total in each rear.
If you're installing one-piece pads that don't have holes for the pins, you will need to remove the pins marked in blue. Carbotechs pads do have holes, so leave the pins in place - Thanks Joe_Planet!
Compress the pistons (push them into the caliper) so the new pads will have room to clear the rotor.
- Cleaning around the pistons first will help you prevent scratching the bores.
- You can leave your pads in which can make this step easier.
- Be careful when doing this as you can easily damage your caliper paint if using a metal clamp.
- This pushes fluid back into the brake system. The brake fluid reservoir may overflow, so watch out.
- You can also open a bleeder valve which pushes the old fluid out instead of back into the system, just be careful and don't get any fluid on your caliper paint.
Put your new pads in, put the caliper back on, and tighten the caliper bolts to 175Nm / 129lb ft. If you removed the pad pins and need to re-install them, torque them to 40Nm / 30lb ft. I went with posiquiets as I'm a cheap bastard (old pads on the bottom):
Before you start driving, be sure to pump your brakes until you have a firm pedal. This pushes the pads back into contact with the rotors and prevents you from having a possible accident.
Note about brake fluid: You don't need to bleed your brakes when you change your pads. For a non-tracked car, I recommend bleeding the brakes every 1-2 years. For a track car, this should be done as often as possible since fresh fluid will always help you brake better.
Follow Steps 1-3 above in the Brake Pad section.
If this is your first time taking off your rotors, there's a clip that you'll need to cut/pry off:
Smack the back of the rotor until it comes loose, preferably with something that won't scratch it. You can also use a hammer or something similar to pry them off as shown in the picture. If removing the rear rotors, make sure the parking brake is off.
You're done! When you put a rotor back on, you don't need the clip to hold it on. This is only used to assist in assembly at the factory. The wheels will hold the rotor for you.