WeaponsGradeTorque

I want a new heads and cam setup this summer. Willing to consider larger cubes and maybe even some FI (supercharged). But prefer NA unless I see 100% evidence that belt slip is removed. I am OK with going higher compression, too if I stay NA.

I am looking at various vendors: Katech, LG MotorSports, Hennesey, Carlos, Fran (very positive experience with Fran already! Good guy!).

I would LOVE to hear what new innovative ideas there are out there to help me achieve my goal. Also will take recommendations on other vendors for members that have had positive experiences.

Please feel free to PM me

OnPoint

Give Jason at Katech a call. He will shoot straight with you on what you're options are, and most importantly what the LS7 will and will not do.

And if you choose them to do the work, you can rest assured it will be done right. By the same folks that have built engines that won Le Mans.

WeaponsGradeTorque

I've spoken to Jason and have been very impressed with him and Katech thus far. I'll give him a shout.

Thanks !!

gotjuice?

I know who not to reccommend.

Fartpipe

Weaponsgrade why do you want 700rwhp? Is it to say you have 700rwhp or do you plan on racing of some sorts? It just seems to me you've spent A LOT of money on your car and I dont recall it being used much for anything other than dynoing. My recommendation is drive the car, enjoy it and use your current HP level to the best of its abilities before we start to turn Corvettes into the next Supra joke. What does a 500/600/700HP supra have in common?........ A 11second time slip Dont let this happen to us!!!

WeaponsGradeTorque

Fartpipe, 700 rwhp is not a hard fixed number it's a goal or an approximation of a power level I would like to be at. If I am going to re-build my motor (something i already planned 4 months ago), I may as well give it a bump in power from my current 630 rwhp. i want a forged motor, and my motor is not currently forged. With my current power output, I seriously doubt it' going to last all that long. That being said, I am happy with the current output and configuration of my car. The heads and cam that is on their now is pretty awesome, except i want forged pistons at a minimum. I have no complaints about that aspect of it. I know I put some serious bucks towards squeezing evey last bit of HP out of this car NA. i am OK with that. Many people will benefit from the R&D I put forth, so use that to your advantage. I learned alot about what parts work well and doesn't work well for our LS7's. I MIGHTdecide to go with more cube and less aggressive of a camshaft with this build. It's hard to beat what i have NA right now on stock LS7 cubes.


I don't really plan on doing quarter miles with my car. It's fun, but i am interested in something different. That doesn't mean i am not interesting in knowing what the quarter mile time is, At some point (soon I hope) my goal is high speed Texas Mile or Miami Mile run. Was going to do it this year but was very very very busy at work.

Appreciate your insight and I know you mean well. The extensive dyno time you saw was because my car was re-tuned. The car had so much KR originally (10+ degrees at WOT at times). 29 derees of timing advance will do that to a motor. So i wanted to be absolutely sure it was all cleared up and running correctly. Also switched over to E85 after the 93 octane tune was fixed. ALSO, I also don't advertise everything I do with my car and what i could possibly use all that power for.

J HEBERT

WGT, I understand the need for more power, BUT, if u are making 630rw right now N/A, getting another 70rwhp is not going to be cheap. In fact, I would say it will cost 200% more than it did to get to 630 from ~450 or so. Not only that, drivability and LONG term reliability will likely suffer, and I don't know how much of your fuel is going to come from a gas pump........

Also, don't get caught up in the "peak" dyno # game, I see already fast cars gain 20+ rw peak but the car runs the same (or slower) because the trade-off below peak hp (read: low-end torque) was just too much. One approach is bragging rights, the other is winning.

Last but not least, for any given type of racing, the over-all set-up is key (susp, clutch, tune etc). I see ~600rw cars that can't get into the 10's, but we know for a fact it takes 490rwhp to go 9.80s in a 3100# vette, c4, c5, and c6.

You know, I wouldn't have even posted, but it's not everyday u see someone w/ 630rwhp c6z that *wants more*

I am not saying don't upgrade, just be prepared. At your hp level, forging is never a bad idea IMO. Keep the rubber-side down

StreetRacingGuy

without doing a whole motor (which would be cool, 500 cubes and huge heads) here is a suggestion...

tear motor apart, all new rings and bearings, ARP fastners, forged aluminum pistons with coating and ringed for nitrous, do a 200 hp dry shot, put a big intank fuel pump, larger injectors. Keep rods (bushed ala Katech) and crank, no need to replace those.

The problem I see is that I believe you had your heads angle milled to get the higher CR. I would think the "ideal" situation would have been to do the pistons first and achieve the higher CR that way and not have to angle mill the heads. But, I assume adding forged pistons now would be fine.

This way you can keep most aspects of your current build. You do a 427 cube, 2618 forged piston, E85 gas, 13+:1 Cr and a 200 shot tuned correctly...you should be safely about 800-850 rwhp and 800 torque I imagine. With no lag, belt slip, and the extra power only when you need it.

You would not have a hard time with 99% of the cars you will encounter on the street with a setup like that.

Probably cost you $6-7K installed for everything I imagine...and just silly fast.

One idea anyways...

Black06Jeep

Give Shawn at Ragin Racin a call. I just got my car back at the beginning of December and am pleased so far. We set it up very conservatively on the tune and these pulls were done at around 75 degrees F.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...and-video.html

Good luck with whatever you decide to do!

Alan

383vett

Is this in the eighth mile?

blaine123

Belt slip to some extent is good. And YES you can remove belt slip completely.... COG DRIVE.

But.... going bigger displacement with N/A is the route not many take since it is more $$. I'd like to see more results down this road.

KLLRVET

I know you want to go N/a, but you can easily attain your goals and more with an APS TT kit. The driveability will be like stock too.

Mr.Big

Belt slip is a thing of the past, Dallas Performance 10 Rib + direct drive conversion on my F1R and ZERO slip at 24psi... this goal could be easily achieved with a S/C kit, fuel system changes and the addition of methanol injection... you should consider posting these questions in the F.I. section where there is a ton of wisdom and several members with setups exactly like what you may want...

Gannet

If you plan to drive it on the street, you will need FI, whether blower, turbo, or nitrous. For all but the latter, you're looking at a serious dollar boost.

Personally, I think 700 rw is not a sensible goal for an LS7. Your current 630 is real close to the limit for streetable NA. Oh, sure, you could spend a ton on a 454 and make another 20 or so but they don't really fit in the LS7 block all that well. And mid-600s is getting close to the limit of ancillary systems like fuel, cooling, driveline, etc. It's also real low 10s, which is about the limit for a real street car in terms of NHRA rules. It's a good place to be.

But, if you're got more-power-itis, which I think we all understand, and that's not enough, then you need to go FI. In that case once you pay the money to go FI, especially forged, why stop at 700? So I'd say keep it NA 427 and enjoy a sweet, light, high-revving 630, or go blower or turbo and go for at least 850. But for that, bring a boatload of money because you're going to need a lot more than just the FI kit.

Good luck!

venomws7

500ci 12:1 compresstion with Allpro heads or Mast LS7 Heads , beck intake or wilson and good match cam for it will get 700rwhp n/a

Thats an easy setup

double06

For displacement. With cubes comes Mr. Torque also.

0Myhardtop

Rudy,

If 700rwhp you want, then 700rwhp you can have but it will be expensive.

Supercharger: you will be looking at a new built motor, the cost of the kit, cost for better cooling, a new clutch kit (maybe), gauges, improved fueling system, tuning, new heads, (if yours are milled too much), a new cam kit.
Some Pros: power all the time, great power potential (more boost) and the whine sound if that's what you like. Some cons: heat, extra weigh, and possible belt slippage.
COST: Medium vs. the other FI option

TT kit: a built motor, the cost of the kit, better cooling, a new clutch (maybe), improved fueling, gauges, new heads (again, if yours are not milled too much), a new cam kit and the list goes on.
Some Pros: crazy power potential, turbo sound. Some Cons: heat, extra weigh, cost.
COST: High

Big cube N/A E85 or Race gas: New built motor (468 or higher)...RHS aluminum block with a killer rotating assembly would be sweet. A new clutch kit (maybe), High CR (between 12.5 and 13.5), revisit current heads and set up accordingly, a new cam kit.
Some Pros: power all the time, typically no heating issues, no extra weigh (Aluminum block) and more.
Some Cons: limited to power level vs. the FI options, not as street friendly vs. FI options.
COST: Low vs. the other options above.

Choose your path based on your budget and overall goals.

The cheaper option would be simply adding a little NOS kit (100hp) to your current set up and call it a day.

Or, you can use the same 100hp shot plus forged pistons, better fasteners all around, refresh entire block, increase compression, refresh heads, change cam and move on.

Again, it all depends on your budget.

Any of the vendors above including me can help you get there... Also keep this in mind: higher cost does not mean better service/results. Don't get caught up in the vette tax drama.

There you have it amigo.

Hope this helps

Thanks,
Carlos

Luweegy

Forge it and add a little NOS

SS MPSTR

Innovative ideas? How about cubic dollar ones? Displacement and boost is going to be the most street friendly.

0MR Z

There are several vendors here that can get you what you want. If you are looking at NA then 500 ci with e85 is the way to go.. To be honest though we could build a stock block Ls7 at 750-800 rwhp where belt slip would not be a issue and would make a lot more torque than the 500ci and be a lot more civil on the street. If you want a serious motor we can put together a World Warhawk or RHS block to run 700 and when you are ready you can crank it to over 1000rwhp. There are so many options and good companies that can get you there. Give us a call and I'll be happy to speak with you about every option that is available to you. Look forward to hearing from you!!

Shawn