[Z06] siezed engine vs blown engine ?
02-07-2011, 09:49 PM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
siezed engine vs blown engine ?
Is a siezed engine different from a blown engine or is it the same thing?
If the engine siezed due to oil starvation do I need to swap out the oil coolers and intake manifold ?
If the engine siezed due to oil starvation do I need to swap out the oil coolers and intake manifold ?
02-07-2011, 11:11 PM
#3
Safety Car
I agree.
Classic definition of siezed = motor wont spin
Classic defenition of blown = hole in motor somewhere
U are on the right forum for the "my motor blew up"- so lets see where this theread will go !!
LOL
Classic definition of siezed = motor wont spin
Classic defenition of blown = hole in motor somewhere
U are on the right forum for the "my motor blew up"- so lets see where this theread will go !!
LOL
Last edited by dstiger; 02-07-2011 at 11:15 PM. Reason: I can't spell so good
02-08-2011, 04:36 AM
#4
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Oh one other thing i would check is your main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearings, pistons, cylinder walls, and pretty much any other part that moves inside your engine.
Well really at that point you might as well just do a basic rebuild so that way you just cover all your bases and not leave anything to chance.
Thats what i would do if it were me.
02-08-2011, 06:58 PM
#7
Race Director
If the engine siezed due to oil starvation do I need to swap out the oil coolers and intake manifold ?
The oil coolers may need some cleaning out. The manifold may need to be checked for flatness.
The crank, rods, pistons, cam and all the bearings will likely weld themselves to each other. The cylinders may be bored if the damage isn't too deep.
On 2nd thought, since it's an LS7 there isn't any room between cylinders, you might as well get an LSx...
02-09-2011, 01:01 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
You're going to have to rebuild either. A blown block, not sure if you can fix that at all. If it's just a piston that's blown (hole through the piston) then you replace the pistons.
Rebuild the whole thing. Change the rings, bearings, remachine and check everything to make sure it's all perfect.
Rebuild the whole thing. Change the rings, bearings, remachine and check everything to make sure it's all perfect.
02-09-2011, 01:38 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
Both terms, seized and blown up, are slang terms that are often mixed.
Both terms, seized and blown up, are slang terms that are often mixed.
When I think of a seized engine, it is usually a small 2 stroke engine. This configuration relies on oil mixed into the gas to lubricate it. They will occasionally weld the piston/ring to the cylinder liner and seize, or stop turning over. This is usually caused by a lean condition, overheating, or improper oil/fuel ratio.
For a good example of a blown engine watch the NHRA Top Fuel cars. They will run lean and literally blow the engine apart with flames/burning oil along with parts flying everywhere.
I assume we are discussing your LS7. They have a couple of problems. The first is the 2-piece valve will break apart and the valve head becomes a foreign object in the chamber and is crushed by the compressing piston. The cast aluminum piston them comes apart and the connecting rod turns into a chain saw as it whirls around unguided by the piston. Depending on the RPM this occurs, it can damage only one cylinder, or it can put a hole in the block and cylinder head and almost total the engine.
The other common problem is oil starvation. The LS7 dry sump is literally a poor man’s dry sump and can starve the engine of lubrication oil in certain conditions. This will usually overheat and distort one or more rod bearings. This then results in excessive clearance between the rod and the crank pin and the engine will pound itself into pieces. If shutdown in time, the rod can weld itself to the crank pin. More often, it will damage at least the two adjoining rods and the crank. If it comes apart, the damage can be near total.
Now on to your question of replacing the oil coolers and intake manifold. Any internal engine damage usually circulates metal particles/large pieces throughout the engine and oil system. These same particles can damage your new parts. They must be thoroughly cleaned/flushed before the new engine is run. Consider the price of a new oil cooler compared to damaging your engine, again. If you have access to a parts washer with lots of clean solvent, you may be able to clean the oil coolers. It may be cheaper and easier to replace them. The intake manifold can be cleaned fairly easy.
Hope this helps!
When I think of a seized engine, it is usually a small 2 stroke engine. This configuration relies on oil mixed into the gas to lubricate it. They will occasionally weld the piston/ring to the cylinder liner and seize, or stop turning over. This is usually caused by a lean condition, overheating, or improper oil/fuel ratio.
For a good example of a blown engine watch the NHRA Top Fuel cars. They will run lean and literally blow the engine apart with flames/burning oil along with parts flying everywhere.
I assume we are discussing your LS7. They have a couple of problems. The first is the 2-piece valve will break apart and the valve head becomes a foreign object in the chamber and is crushed by the compressing piston. The cast aluminum piston them comes apart and the connecting rod turns into a chain saw as it whirls around unguided by the piston. Depending on the RPM this occurs, it can damage only one cylinder, or it can put a hole in the block and cylinder head and almost total the engine.
The other common problem is oil starvation. The LS7 dry sump is literally a poor man’s dry sump and can starve the engine of lubrication oil in certain conditions. This will usually overheat and distort one or more rod bearings. This then results in excessive clearance between the rod and the crank pin and the engine will pound itself into pieces. If shutdown in time, the rod can weld itself to the crank pin. More often, it will damage at least the two adjoining rods and the crank. If it comes apart, the damage can be near total.
Now on to your question of replacing the oil coolers and intake manifold. Any internal engine damage usually circulates metal particles/large pieces throughout the engine and oil system. These same particles can damage your new parts. They must be thoroughly cleaned/flushed before the new engine is run. Consider the price of a new oil cooler compared to damaging your engine, again. If you have access to a parts washer with lots of clean solvent, you may be able to clean the oil coolers. It may be cheaper and easier to replace them. The intake manifold can be cleaned fairly easy.
Hope this helps!
02-09-2011, 09:55 PM
#10
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03-23-2017, 10:34 PM
#11
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They are different, but the result is the same! When an engine seizes, the engine becomes super heated until failure.
The oil coolers may need some cleaning out. The manifold may need to be checked for flatness.
The crank, rods, pistons, cam and all the bearings will likely weld themselves to each other. The cylinders may be bored if the damage isn't too deep.
On 2nd thought, since it's an LS7 there isn't any room between cylinders, you might as well get an LSx...
The oil coolers may need some cleaning out. The manifold may need to be checked for flatness.
The crank, rods, pistons, cam and all the bearings will likely weld themselves to each other. The cylinders may be bored if the damage isn't too deep.
On 2nd thought, since it's an LS7 there isn't any room between cylinders, you might as well get an LSx...
03-24-2017, 09:44 AM
#13
Why do people keep saying coolers, as in plural? I only know of one engine oil cooler. And if I needed one due to racing demands, I'd just get a different radiator with an integrated oil cooler, before buying a new, independant oil cooler.
If you have bearing pieces or other hard parts running around from engine damage, the oil pump will need to be inspected and / or replaced. Hoses to the oil tank, and the tank will also need to be removed, cleaned / inspected. You will most likely need to replace the oil pump pick up tube while you are at it....
You may also want to consider installing a pan tray (Improved Racing or Aviad), and also the tank insert from Aviad. These two items will help with oil supply, and reduce oil aeration.
If you have bearing pieces or other hard parts running around from engine damage, the oil pump will need to be inspected and / or replaced. Hoses to the oil tank, and the tank will also need to be removed, cleaned / inspected. You will most likely need to replace the oil pump pick up tube while you are at it....
You may also want to consider installing a pan tray (Improved Racing or Aviad), and also the tank insert from Aviad. These two items will help with oil supply, and reduce oil aeration.
03-24-2017, 12:51 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
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Wow, this IS an old thread!
Reading the posts... saw one from 'Vito A'. I always appreciated his posts as one of the few really intelligent voices here.
Haven't seen him post for a while...
Reading the posts... saw one from 'Vito A'. I always appreciated his posts as one of the few really intelligent voices here.
Haven't seen him post for a while...
03-24-2017, 02:05 PM
#17
Team Owner
03-24-2017, 05:42 PM
#18
Melting Slicks
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2 of the real old timers I've worked with used liquid wrench down the spark plug holes when they ran across an engine frozen from disuse. Squirt 'em down, let it soak, gradually work it back and forth until the rings were free.
I never tried it, but to them it was just routine.
