Cman01

Been driving the car the last few weeks. Those that don't know the story did SSBL's this winter during storage and over a long period of time could not get the brake fluid to stop sweating at the calipers. First it was all four then eventually got it to only the back 2 calipers.

Tried everything and nothing worked. The part that pisses me off is that it would look like it is fixed only for me to find out a few days (or weeks) later I check them and the sweat is there.

So to eliminate a possible issue with the back lines I reinstalled the stock OE lines at the back. Again same problem it would sweat one day then be fine for a while and then return. It was driving me up the wall.

I decided to say F it, and dropped her down a few weeks ago and started driving the car. To my surprise I don't seem to feel there is an issue. Pedal feels fine (just like last year), car stops great when I stomp on it and during the last few weeks really kept an eye on the master cyl. level and it hasn't dropped.

I can't really check the connections now with the car sitting on the wheels so I have no clue whether the sweating is still there or not but at least for now car seems to be fine.

In two weeks I will be taking my car to a dealer here in Toronto that specializes in Corvettes (Wilson Niblett). I was there for a tech session last month and talked to their brake tech guy. He seems to know what the deal is with those lines so he's gonna install the back ones and they better not leak!!!!! Hopefully this will be it.

track junkie

I am having the same trouble with my stainless brake line install.
The threads on the hard line are damaged requiring cutting the line, using a new nut and creating a new double flare. If the thread on the hard line is good then the flare is deformed requiring more torque to try and stop the leaks.

I purchased this tool thinking it would be easy to create a double flare and I have not had any success in my practice attempts on a scrap piece of brake line. My double flare is slightly larger in diameter that per these specs for 3/16" tubing. http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common%20flares6.pdf


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ITC-Brake-Line-Flaring-Tool-Kit-4VAA9?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Fleet%20and%20Vehicle%20Maintenance-_-Automotive%20Mechanical-_-4VAA9&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=4VAA9

My conclusion is that double flares are not reusable and must be cut off and a new double flare must be made. It's time for me to order another double flaring tool. This doesn't seem like a fun do it yourself project.

Cdn Z06 Mike

Keep us posted Tony. I was at Powell Motorsports Today and installed my SS brake lines and so far no issues and I'll keep a watch out very carefully.

Cman01

I had that issue too where the lines would not thread onto the hard line on 3 corners of the car, one corner was fine. When I realized the nut wouldn't thread onto the SBL's I didn't force it as it would possibly damage the nut requiring the extra issues you have. My friend came over with a thread bar and cleaned up the threads on the nuts which made it possible for the SBL's to thread on. Basically at the factory the nuts were overtighten causing the threads to flare out too much to the stock rubber line block. They would thread together no problem just wouldn't work with the steel lines.

Mike, good that your install seems ok. Looking back I probably shouldn't have done them or just would've gotten a shop to do it. However, realizing the problem I had with the nuts I wonder if the shop would've done what my friend did or they would just reef the lines on so in that regard I'm glad that my issues were taken care of correctly.

Cman01

So I got the car to Wilson Niblett yesterday to address my brake line issue.

I talked to the tech first that I had requested to do the job (had talked with him about a month or so ago when I was there at the tech session) and showed him the lines that he would install.

He took one look at them and mentioned to me an issue with the line blocks that attach to the caliper. Upon closer inspection he pointed out to me that there were these very fine lines running length wise on the block on both sides (and on both SBL's). They intersect the opening that the banjo bolts go through. He basically said my issue with them not sealing was very definitely the results of those fine lines, they are there due to the machining process when the lines were made. He said there would be no way that the copper washers would be able to take up the clearance left by those lines and that is the reason why the tiny bit of brake fluid would seep through.

For him it wasn't a big issue, he's seen lines like that before and he had a way to fix it. Basically he would clean up the surface just enough to get rid of the lines and after torquing the bolt to specs it will seal up no problem so I let him get to work.

I left with a courtesy car provided by the dealership and after a few hours my car was ready. I talked to him again and he said everything is good. He checked the front lines for me no leaks, he did the rears and checked for leaks, there weren't any after he bled the brakes. I also had him do a trans/axle fluid flush too so he drove the car for a bit to work in the axle fluid. He brought the car back in afterwards and did a check again on the rear lines and he said everything was dry so I think it's good (there's no reason to doubt him).

Drove the car home and pedal felt great (just like before but knowing now that there are no leaks makes me feel better). I still would like to check it myself just to be sure but I'll leave it for now. When I get my DRM Bilsteins I'll have a chance to take a look then.

He did say that if there is still a leak no problem bringing it back and he would resolve the problem.

So I feel better now, even though I had to spend some money to get the lines on properly. The machining on these parts should be better so as to avoid issues like this. I blame myself a bit for not taking a very detailed look at my parts before install. Had I noticed those lines before I even started this job I would have taken care of the lines before they even went on my car. Lesson learned.

Cman01

Another update: a few weeks ago I pulled the rear wheels off to do a check. I haven't had a chance to do that since the repair was done at WN. I checked the RR side. Line block to caliper was dry and steel line to hard line was tight and dry.

Pulled the LR side wheel off. Line block to caliper dry but steel line to hard line had fluid leak. Bummer!!!! That connection for some reason always had a slight issue even during the 3 to 4 times I had loosen and tighten that connection.

I thought to myself: "ok", time to make a trip back and get him to tighten it or do it myself. Wilson Niblett is a far drive for me to go just to get a hard line tighten up so I broke out the line wrenches and got to it. I was able to tighten the nut a fair bit and it looked sealed.

I did another check just a day ago. Since the RR side was good the first time I didn't bother pulling the wheel to check so I just did the LR side. This time we are good to go FINALLY!!!!!!! Hard line connection was dry as was the line block to caliper. I'm pretty sure if I did pull the RR wheel off to check that side it would be ok.

About F-ing time this was solved!!!!

sammyv

What brand SSBL's did you buy that caused you all this trouble?

Cman01

Russell SSL's from Mike at Eastcoast Performance.

Jeff Blue 2005

I've had the same nightmare on my car.

I tried to swap factory rubber for SS braided brake lines, but the ferrule nut at the hardline connection seems to have expanded, along with the tubing. I shoudl have known I was in trouble when it took wrenching the entire length of threads to loosen. with a flare it shoudl only be tight 1-2 threads. I couldn't get either the old nut, or new braided SS nut on.

So I figured cut off the flare, put a new nut on? The tubing (measured) on my car appears to be 0.196" Dealer parts catalogue currently says 3/16" (0.1875) I bought new 3/16" ferrules and they won't go on the old lines.The lines have a black plastic coating on them, so i had to ream out the new nuts to fit. that worked in teh front, but don't have space on the rear to get in there, so I am planning/hoping to use a die on the original nut and recut the threads enough to get the lines back on. nightmare.

erikszr1

damn aftermarket stuff.....i would have gave up, went back to stock or bought another brand.....nice patients, kudos to you

Random84

thankfully no issues for me after my recent SSBL and russell speed bleeder swap on all four wheels.

Just a matter of hand-threading, then tightening snugly without overdoing it on the calipers and lines. Of course, all four lines broke relatively easily and were not over-done on my factory car with 20K miles.

Red89gt

I am searching like crazy on here looking for any input you all have?

Just went to install my powder coated calipers and had a torque wrench set to 30 ft lbs like I have seen on here time and time again. Needless to say before i got to 30 the caliper threads stripped. i am now purchasing new calipers for the front but am hesitant to torque that high?????

NORTY

Those small aluminum threads won't take 30 ft. lbs. Now, they'll take 30 IN. lbs. but not twelve times that force.

KLLRVET

Please for the sake of the people you will be sharing the road with, have a professional do your brakes for you. If you think the bleeders need 30 ft/lbs if torque you have NO business working on you car yourself.

Red89gt

I will be snugging by hand like last 20 years of doing brake jobs, bleeding and checking for leaks.

Threads were fubar, I didn't even get a light snug into them and they gave it up.

Random84

I hope you're using a small wrench, and I let the brake fluid act as a bit of lubricant: in other words, there's always seeping fluid when I swap lines, so I let it weep and use that to lubricate the threads as I hand-tighten. I have never used a torque wrench on any brake line or nut - but I will use them for suspension connections or any large bolt (ie a caliper bracket). Generally speaking, 30 ft-lbs or less I don't bother torquing as IMHO the average home-garage wrench is not precise enough at that range to be of significant benefit.

And it goes without saying, you ALWAYS want to start threading by hand to ensure no cross-threading. With aluminum calipers and relatively soft-alloy bolts, it's always a risk. Of course, if you bought your car used, there's always the chance that someone marred up the threads prior to your swap, and you're just getting the left overs?

Red89gt

Well it will be new calipers going on so it should be okay, famous last words right?
Plan on using 1/4" drive ratchet or open end, either are short in length.

Yeah on bolts like banjo's i always run them down completely by hand, if they don't go something is most likely wrong or the bolt isn't straight.

I did my rear caliper brake lines by hand and last time I checked no leaks. Reluctantly I will check when i bleed the system out after I get the fronts back on. I hope they never have to come off. Short of some sort of mechanical issue with the caliper or a monstor brake upgrade (not likely) I hope this will be put to rest soon and anyone searching around will be able to find plenty of info from the posts I have run.

KLLRVET

you said you tried to torque to 30 ft lbs, not snug by hand..I'm scared

Red89gt

Yeah, followed the service manual in a weak moment even though brain said it was too much. Light snug and done, car is put back together.

SteveDoten

10mm x 1.0 die on hard line side fittings; it's almost a pre-req on C6 brake line upgrades, Jay Cutler may have worked at BG installing these???