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Old 04-20-2012, 01:58 AM   #1
Turbooo2u
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Default Powertrain or bumper to bumper?

Deciding later today on purchasing an extended warranty for my 07'Z. Choosing between a basic powertrain to insure my engine or stepping up to a bumper to bumper. Both are a 6 year/60 month plans. There is an $1100 difference between the two. Is it worth the extra bucks considering the fact that my CD changer broke, oil pan gasket replaced, and steering column have broken during the original warranty? Any thoughts?
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Old 04-22-2012, 07:42 PM   #2
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IMO I wouldnt bother with bumper to bumper. Powertrain is where its at. Its the one area of the car that costs the most $$$ to fix and will have the greatest potential for some ROI on your warranty. I sent you a PM I see youre getting the warranty from Fidelity, Im thinking of doing the same.
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Old 04-22-2012, 07:58 PM   #3
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I was told by the dealership (So take it for what it is) that the electronics are pretty important to cover as well due to how much is in the car. I believe they mentioned 6 different pieces of equipment all for up to $1,000 to replace without even factoring labor.

To me whats and extra 1K now for total bumper to bumper for a long time. Rather than kick yourself later.
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Old 04-22-2012, 07:59 PM   #4
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Powertrain...........dont like leaving cars at dealerships in first place
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Old 04-22-2012, 07:59 PM   #5
'06 Quicksilver Z06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forg0tmypen View Post
IMO I wouldnt bother with bumper to bumper. Powertrain is where its at. Its the one area of the car that costs the most $$$ to fix and will have the greatest potential for some ROI on your warranty. I sent you a PM I see youre getting the warranty from Fidelity, Im thinking of doing the same.
A lot of the rest of the stuff, you can do yourself.

The car will still run with a bad power seat switch or bad power windows switch.

The stuff that makes the car move though, the power train, tends to be the most difficult and most expensive to fix.

Look at it this way; he'd have to have $1100.00 worth of non power train equipment, radio, power windows, etc., fail on the car in order to make it worth the $1100.00 price difference between the warranty with and without the bumper to bumper.
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:00 PM   #6
Gary '09 C6
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Your talking about just under an extra $200/yr to cover electronic items that are expensive to fix if they break (in add'n.
to everything else). One or two trips to the dealer ought to eat that up quick.

also depends on how long you will be keeping the car...

Cost/type/length of extended warranties are always a trade-off. They are a form of pre-paid repairs at best if you
need to use it... and I do believe in the product for big-ticket items.
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:01 PM   #7
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Powertrain...........dont like leaving cars at dealerships in first place
Another good point.

I'd just as soon fix my own radio or power windows or power seat, as opposed to an all day trip to the dealership.
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propain View Post
I was told by the dealership (So take it for what it is) that the electronics are pretty important to cover as well due to how much is in the car. I believe they mentioned 6 different pieces of equipment all for up to $1,000 to replace without even factoring labor.

To me whats and extra 1K now for total bumper to bumper for a long time. Rather than kick yourself later.
Take the extra 1K, put it in a car repair fund........when you dont need it, use it towards the purchase price of the next car...if you need it, there it is.
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:22 PM   #9
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Take the extra 1K, put it in a car repair fund........when you dont need it, use it towards the purchase price of the next car...if you need it, there it is.
and what if it breaks twice in 60 months? Its not a matter of being prepared for the damage, its getting the most out of your money. You gamble that 1K will buy you more than 1K in repairs over the next 60 month warranty. Ill take that gamble as ive owned MANY GM cars and know they break often.

All depends on how much you drive it too... Ill probably only put 2K a year at most on mine.

To each their own. 1K now.. piece of mind later is for me.
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Old 04-22-2012, 09:30 PM   #10
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and what if it breaks twice in 60 months? Its not a matter of being prepared for the damage, its getting the most out of your money. You gamble that 1K will buy you more than 1K in repairs over the next 60 month warranty. Ill take that gamble as ive owned MANY GM cars and know they break often.

All depends on how much you drive it too... Ill probably only put 2K a year at most on mine.

To each their own. 1K now.. piece of mind later is for me.
If you only drive 2K a year, it makes it an even worse idea to purchase an extended warranty.....but like you say to each his own......
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Old 04-22-2012, 11:51 PM   #11
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If doing a warranty, do the whole deal, as lots of stupid stuff you'd never even think of. Keep in mind the Vette's Stabil-A-Track, ABS, traction control systems for starters. My late model Pontiac daily car's fuel filler little flapper door just fell inside the the multi bend fill tube somewhere. Wasn't gonna worry about it much, but since has full GMPP coverage, I'll let the dealer take care of it.
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:21 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by dun4791 View Post
If you only drive 2K a year, it makes it an even worse idea to purchase an extended warranty.....but like you say to each his own......
To pay 2 or 3 grand or whatever to cover a car for 10,000 miles is a bad bet. That's over 20 cents a mile for extended warranty costs. If the op was putting 10 or 12 thousand a year, it would make more sense but still is a bad bet. Companies don't sell these things to lose money.
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:23 AM   #13
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My late model Pontiac daily car's fuel filler little flapper door just fell inside the the multi bend fill tube somewhere. Wasn't gonna worry about it much, but since has full GMPP coverage, I'll let the dealer take care of it.

After you pay the $100 deducible.
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:44 AM   #14
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After you pay the $100 deducible.
That can depend on the dealer. The dealership where I purchased my H2 and warranty will wave the deducible If they do the repairs. It would be a good question to ask.
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:54 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Vette5.5 View Post
If doing a warranty, do the whole deal, as lots of stupid stuff you'd never even think of. Keep in mind the Vette's Stabil-A-Track, ABS, traction control systems for starters. My late model Pontiac daily car's fuel filler little flapper door just fell inside the the multi bend fill tube somewhere. Wasn't gonna worry about it much, but since has full GMPP coverage, I'll let the dealer take care of it.
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:27 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dun4791 View Post
If you only drive 2K a year, it makes it an even worse idea to purchase an extended warranty.....but like you say to each his own......

I agree in my case. I was trying to remove my personal situation for the benifit of the OP.

In my case I will extend it only on the DT.... maybe.. I was also thinking after the CPO was up to do the SC.
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:42 AM   #17
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If you aren't tracking your car Powertrain is pretty much bullet proof. That is why GM and other car companies warranty the powertrain longer. It doesn't cost them any money to do it. The less the car is used the more important the electronic coverage is since that is where you will run into infant mortality issues due to not using the car enough during the base warranty. The EBCM in your car runs $1000 at a discount price so even if you have the ability to fix an ABS problem the fix will not be cheap.

Bill
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:52 AM   #18
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If you aren't tracking your car Powertrain is pretty much bullet proof. That is why GM and other car companies warranty the powertrain longer. It doesn't cost them any money to do it. The less the car is used the more important the electronic coverage is since that is where you will run into infant mortality issues due to not using the car enough during the base warranty. The EBCM in your car runs $1000 at a discount price so even if you have the ability to fix an ABS problem the fix will not be cheap.

Bill
Yup, this is what I hear.


Define "track". Do you mean road course?
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:04 AM   #19
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After you pay the $100 deducible.
$0 ded on my GMPP policies. The policy I have on the ZO6, has about a year to go, and not sure If I'll extend it, let it drop, or maybe consider Fidelity, if really any good. Had some experience with third party insurance before, and can't say I was to happy with it.
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:04 AM
 
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