ls1forlife

Hello,

I bought my car with under 30k, and every so often the lockout would not work until the car was warmed up. Now it never works. I was going to put a new solenoid in it. does anyone have any hints for me? location, part number, procedure, cost?

Can i just jack my z up with a floor jack and jack stands?

my c5z had this solenoid on the top, but my ctsv has it on the side. I believe my 06z is on the passenger side somewhere in the middle?

Thank you so much, you guys are great.

walhan_qtr

did you try to just disconnect and reconnect it again??? mine didnt work for a week or 2 and all we did is that and it was back to normal. and you should be fine with jack stands. its on top though not the side. try just unplaging it and then see wha happens. maybe its the same as mine!!

Bill Dearborn

The solenoid is on top of the transmission. What is the symptom you are getting? The lockout doesn't prevent you from shifting into reverse or it is keeping you from getting into reverse? If you can get the codes scanned see if you have Code P0801. The solenoid has +12V wired to it and the ECM applies a ground to activate the solenoid. Failures where the solenoid is activated when it shouldn't be are rare but GM provided the capability to override the solenoid if you use enough force.

The problem could be the solenoid, the connector, the wiring between the ECM and the solenoid, the ECM or the solenoid +12 V power supply. Loose, corroded/dirty pins inside connectors, wires pinched by something that moves (through expansion) as the car warms up. Get a DVM and start checking for shorts to ground/voltage, opens where there shouldn't be any opens and proper voltage level on the supply side and a proper ground level from the ECM.

Bill

ls1forlife

thank you both.

I did not try to unplug it because i am unsure where it is.

about 500 miles ago it worked how it should. blocked me from shifting into reverse past 3mph. then sometimes it would only block after it was warmed up. Now it just doesnt work at all. i am very careful and i rarely use 5th gear. i had to replace my ctsv trans because of this issues, so i am very careful.

Is this a easy replacement? only get it at GM?

Bill Dearborn

You have to drop the rear cradle/transmission a few inches so you can get access the solenoid.

Here are the solenoid replacement instructions minus the pictures:

Reverse Lockout Solenoid Replacement
Tools Required
J 41099 Gear Select/Reverse Lockout Solenoid Socket

Removal Procedure
Caution: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in the Preface section.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle.
Remove the rear tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
Remove the intermediate exhaust pipe to muffler bolts.
Tie off the mufflers to the underbody to support out of the way.
Remove the rear transverse spring. Refer to Rear Transverse Spring Replacement.
Disconnect the wiring harness and brake pipe clip retainers from the rear suspension crossmember.
Position a transmission jack under the rear suspension crossmember and firmly secure the crossmember to the jack.
Using ONLY HAND TOOLS, remove the rear suspension crossmember mounting nuts.
Important: Observe the clearance between the driveline and the driveline tunnel closeout panel.

Slowly lower the rear suspension crossmember, along with the attached driveline, approximately 4 cm (1½ in).
Lower the rear suspension crossmember and driveline for access to the reverse lockout solenoid.

Disconnect the reverse lockout solenoid electrical connector.
Using the J 41099 , remove the reverse lockout solenoid.

Bill

ls1forlife

Bill thank you,

Could i just unplug it and plug it back in without doing all of that? just to give that a try?

Bill Dearborn

If you can reach it and then replug it after you have pulled the plug apart. Sometimes things come apart a lot easier than they go back together so watch what you are doing or you just might be dropping the drive train a little.

Bill

hoefi

Had the same problem with my '07. Dealer couldn't produce the problem while the car was under warrantee and never fixed it. At the end, I had to put in a new unit myself.

The new replacement unit is a lot smaller in size. Didn't drop the drivetrain. Instead, I cut one of my wrenches and welded an arm on it at an angle to access the unit.

ls1forlife

thank you all! I guess the best thing i can do is take a look and go from there..

its on the top, pretty easy to point out, i should be confused with any other sensor?

EX1

I have an extra solenoid for $40 bucks if you want it.

walhan_qtr

yes it should be easy. I was able to pull it and put it back with out taking the transmission down or anything... hopefully that will solve your problem... thats all what we did on mine and its working fine now (its been a month now I think)

ls1forlife

is it new?

ls1forlife

unfortunately, unplugging it and plugging did not fix the issue. i think i will have to take it to a vette shop.

the solenoid runs parallel with the transmission, on the top, with the pigtail connector towards the front, correct?

Matt-P

Yes.

Have fifth gear grind on mine and I just checked my solenoid, it's easier to remove the ''adapter'' the solenoid is attached to, one 11 mm bolt if I remember correct, then remove the solenoid in a vice.

I also put 12V to it to check and it clicked fine = fifth gear syncro is worn

ls1forlife

Thank you very much. I could remove the bolt with ease, on my CTS-V this solenoid is on the side with 100% access. I am sorry your syncro is beat. i have no issues shifting, i just dont like not having that reverse lock out.....

KyleMonaghan

Hey all, I wanted to start a new thread but am unsure how to. I’m new here.
Can someone fill me in?

Anyways, I was removing my stock mufflers (C6 Z06) and damaged the connector to the:

• EVAP Sensor on the gas tank… and the
• Connector to the transmission that regulates reverse-lockout.

Does anyone know the best way to go about fixing this/how did you fix it if you had this issue?

I’m thinking about ordering new connectors and soldering the original wiring up to them.

Any suggestions would be helpful!