NEO1

Does anyone have any experience with Red Line oil, such as tear downs or any other proof of performance? This is not a thread about comparing oils. I'm looking for anyone that has any long term experience with using their oils in C5 or C6's. Thank you.

ClarksZ06

Contact LG Motorsports. It's what they use in their race cars, C5, & C6 projects

1 BAD BURB

Ditto, Doug Rippie motorsports uses Redline as well. I've used it in my drivetrain and engine for many years now. I can't tell you performance gains, but it def wears better then any other high perf oil out there. Def better then Mobile 1, that is crap oil!

Aj

Mopar Jimmy

with my old buddy AJ, Redline has a great reputation and if I ever get away from the Mobil 1 that is the way that I would go. Here is some nice research that Jim Halltech posted about a year ago giving Redling a big thumbs up!


Enjoy the read:



This synthetic oil contains MPZ and will provide much superior lubrication for you motor.
http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/sr-1.html
Molybdenum Diathiophosphate is the ticket.

The reason we are seeing wear like the motors did back in the 70s is because the EPA has mandated the levels of ZDDP (anti-wear additive) decreased over the past 10 to 15 years. The API level is not sufficient for proper antiwear between moving parts any longer.

Torco Racing Oils contain MPZ which is a mix of ZDDP and MolyDP. The latter is an antifriction additive which counters the loss of ZDDP.

One guess why the ZDDP level has been reduced? Phosphorus base. The EPA considers it to be a pollutant. Remember when motors lasted 100,000+ miles? No more.


Read this:

http://www.ttalk.info/Zddp.htm

I used to be the Technical Director for Torco Racing Oils, that made a Super Synthetic oil with less ZDDP than API standards, but a liquid moly called Molybdenum Dithiophosphate replaced the missing Zinc, and actually helped with power losses associated with the stiction effects of the Zinc. We sponsored Warren Johnson's Pro Stock car and over 20 other Pro Stockers, once they found out that Warren gained 25 HP on the dyno with our oil over Mobil 1. I don't know what Torco is doing these days, and cannot recommend them at this time.

Zinc, however, is the best anti wear additive ever put into motor oil, accounting for the 200,000 mile zero wear tests Mobil One use to brag about. No longer.

Once again, the environmentalist have gotten their way, in reducing phosphorus from our oils, to prevent the cats from fouling out. Suppossedly.

The ZDDP is phosphorus based and has been reduced significantly in the past few years.

Wonder why the roller bearings are flaming out? Valve guides wearing? Not me.

Redline Oil is one of the few companies to keep its Zinc level where it should be, and could care less about API. They also sell a ZDDP additive for new break in motors.

Ring wear, and reciprocating parts like valve stems and other parts like rockers suffer the most.

Do a search on ZDDP and read about one more attack on the modern motor.

If you think you can only use Mobil 1 to keep your warranty, think again. But here is their chart, which shows other alternative products that contain more ZDDP than the 5W30. http://www.corvetteLS7.com/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

I would not recommend anything above 30W unless you are running a forged piston motor, which has greater P/W clearances.

Torco or Redline is the answer. As far as I'm concerned, the new oils are like driving with no oil filter. Maybe worse.
__________________



HALLTECH SYSTEMS

LS9Drew

I run Redline 5w30 with Wix Filter in my Z06, my dads C5Z, and my old TBSS. No complaints seems to always looks pretty clean when I chance every 4-5k miles or every 6 months

tx_zo6

Best place to purchase?

LS9Drew

I get mine from Summit Racing, some local stores have it but just easier to have it come the next day from Summit.

mdchaser

Any thoughts on switching to redline from mobile 1 on a brand new Grand Sport? Mine has 700 miles (two mobile 1 oil changes) and want to switch but don't want to short circuit the break in process. I also plan on using it in the trans/rear diff once the mileage is high enough.

mdchaser

And would this be the oil I would use? 12 quarts would be almost perfect given the dry sump system...

http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-5W30-...s=red+line+oil

MitchAlsup

I agreee with everything he said;

Also note RedLine is willing to sell you almost straight ZDDP in a product called "engine Oil Breakin Additive" over in the racing oils section.

So even if you have a favorite oil that does not have enough ZDDP, you can still get the ZDDP levels your engine needs.

Mopar Jimmy

Although Redline is a considerably better oil than Mobil 1 (in my humble opinion) if I were you I would just stick with the oem Mobil 1 in your GS, and change the oil on a regular basis (with GMs guidelines).

THe LS3 engine is not having any issues and you could potentially jeopardize your warranty by not using an oil that is on the approved list of GM.

If its not broke, don't fix it, maintain your car, driven it to your heart's desire and stick with what your manual tells you to run.

If your car had an LS7 engine in it and was past warranty, then I would probably recommond the Redline b/c of the issues that more than a few members have had with their engines.

mdchaser

I'm not one to worry about the warranty too much. I don't think I've ever heard of a warranty claim rejected due to oil let alone an actual engine failure because of it. I'm just not convinced mobil 1 is all that it's made out to be, I switched my C5 over to amsoil and it ran noticeably smoother (especially the transmission) so I know there are better oils out there. My biggest concern is switching too soon, I don't want to stop the engine from breaking in properly!

Mopar Jimmy

If that's your mind set then leave well enough alone until you feel your engine is broken in then switch over to Redline 5 W 30 (its great oil).

Blueline

Currently Im running 10w30 Amsoil, I think my next oil change Im going to go with 5w30 Redline.

mdchaser

Chime in with any thoughts after you do the change. I really liked amsoil so it will be interesting to see how they stack up against each other.

Blueline

Will do bud!

Jasil

Only on Corvette forum!!...........lol funny on engines that put out twice the specific output rev to 9K you still don't see the oil threads you see here.

It really doesn't matter at all the way most of these cars are driven you could put in Kmart brand oil and the car should last to 100K.

Any synthetic will be just fine!!

'06 Quicksilver Z06

Well, Mobil 1 5w30, is crap, according to wide consensus.

It might be, and it might not be.

There might not be anything to some of the talk against it, may not be a thing in the world to it......But because I own an LS7, I don't want to find out the hard way, if there is, or not.

I have seen too many LS7 equipped cars for my comfort level, in this section of the forum which were running it, fail.

I just don't think it's the best motor oil for my LS7. I want something for it which has a much better antiwear package than does M1 5w30.

But to your questions, well as on what has already been said, I'd switch from the Mobil 1 after my first oil change if it were my car, and if I had the same concerns as you, I'd go to the Redline.

I figure I have nothing to lose by running an oil with a good ZDDP content in it, except maybe my catalytic converters if I am wrong. Catalytic converters are dirt cheap.

However if I am wrong about Mobil 1 5w30 and continue to run it in my car, I might lose more than that.

And if my motor was going to pop on what I'm running now, Renewable Lubricants 10w30, with a ZDDP level of around 1200-1300 ppm, then it was going to pop on Mobil 1 5w30 too.

Mobil1 5w30, certainly wasn't going to save it.

mdchaser

I've heard the ls7's have been having issues but I didn't know it was oil related! You think it's safe to change over immediately? I know redline is "slicker" than mobil 1 and don't want to arrest the break in process by switching too soon.

'06 Quicksilver Z06

Well, let me put it out there this way.

There has been a lot of talk about valve guide wear in the LS7s and this being a potential contributing factor in valve failure.

The stock valve guides are made of iron.

"Esters in general are great for oil because they stick to metals and form really strong films to prevent metal-to-metal contact, and withstand heat extremely well without losing performance or breaking down. That's a big part of why Red Line and some Motul oils are so great."

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=172664

Couple that with antiwear additives like ZDDP, and you are at least making some effort to minimize engine wear.

There might not be a damn thing to my efforts in sticking to these esters and ZDDP in an effort to reduce engine wear.

But I do know this much.

Mobil 1 5w30, offers not much of either.

And at $9.00-10.00 a quart, what I'm doing might end up being cheap insurance, and if it turns out to be a dud, then I'm no worse off.

Check your oil analyses, look for trends and if you start seeing a lot of iron in them, well then if could indicate that your valve guides are getting away from you.

If your iron levels are very low, then if could indicate that they aren't.