2V4NOW

I've done the "search button" have found plenty of topics on the clip (tie down) fix under the steering column and also TSB's but my question is this:

Car: 08 H/C Z

I recently got the dreaded AH/ABS/T light. It only comes on after getting into second gear or roughly hitting 30mph.. It does not come on when I start it or drive really slow in 1st gear.. I took it to have the battery, starter, alt checked (autozone), and it results that my starter needs to be serviced. I dont know if it was because it was really hot and had been cranked on two or three times within a couple of minutes or indeed is faulty. Battery and Alt were good. I'm thinking of going with the MSD DynaForce starter if I do need to replace. Opinions?

Now, is there any way that the faulty starter would have caused the car to glitch and cause the service light to go off or is there no relation to the issue? Should I try the DIY fix (how complicated?) or does this sound like the TSB mentioned? Only thing is, is if its not the TSB the dealer will charge $100+ just to look/pull codes..

Thanks in advance fellas!

spoon man

How did you come to the conclusion the starter needs to be replaced?

As for the handling light, did you try to shut the car off and see if it goes away? On some vettes if you extend the steering column out too far it can trigger that light and nothing will even be wrong.

2V4NOW

Forgot to mention, after leaving autozone the wife and I went to a furniture store spent about 45 mins before returning to the car. I tried to fire it up and nothing. Only a single audible click (I'm assuming from the starter) Tried it about 3 times with the same result. Let the car sit for another 30 minutes, tried to fire it up, and it did but very slow 2 or 3 cranks before firing up.

As far as the light, yes. This has now been a recurring issue for the past 2 days. Without fail it happens just as described on the first post.

Needless to say, from the diagnosis the autozone tool displayed and my car not starting, I'm assuming the starter is faulty. Unless like I mentioned earlier, it was way too hot (starter)

spoon man

Is the car throwing a check engine light? (not the traction light)

If so do you have the code? I'm not a mechanic but I will try to help get you started in the right direction.

In my experience, the starter usually just tanks. Have you replaced the battery? If an 08 do this first. My 08 battery just died. Spend money and get a battery. You need one anyway

2V4NOW

No check engine light..

Thank you, much appreciated!

Autozone tested the battery and found it good. I'm thinking starter or clip under steering column unless someone else chimes in on other probable causes..

Luweegy

If your starter is burnt from header heat,I would start there.If you don't have headers could just be a loose wire at the starter which is your main power point.I battled this for yr's till I took my straight pipes off. The were vibrating the Yaw sensor.I found that out on the CSTV forum.Cutouts on a CTSV were turning on the Stabilitrac light on their Cady's.

2V4NOW

I'm running Kooks LTs but I'll check for any loose connections..

I'll post results when I check it out tomorrow morning..

yzf-nt

In order to troubleshoot your problem, you will have read the code. To troubleshoot without a code, will be a waste of time and/or money. Just my humble opinion.

2V4NOW

I agree.

I tried to fire it up this morning and nothing for the first 4 attempts, only that single audible click. On the 5th attempt it fired up. Took it for a spin down the street and the service abs/ah/tc light came right back up..

spoon man

The starting problem and handling light could be two different issues. Did you try to not extend out the steering wheel. Keep it pushed in all the way. Maybe we can isolate that issue first.

How old is the battery? If original I would first replace that to start. Auto zone may not be right. It's a good idea anyway so that is where I would start

mnl119

If it turns out the be the steering-column-extension issue, here's a link to a series of pictures showing how to get the orange clip (GM part# 19179794) in position that corrects the problem. The purpose of the clip is to apply extra pressure in the socket to tighten up the contacts.

http://s680.photobucket.com/albums/v...3DDSC00116.jpg

2V4NOW

I have a 1LZ but yes I did pull the panel under the steering column and pulled/reconnected the sensor before even taking it for a drive this morning.

Battery I'm not sure how old but according to autozones meter it was a good battery. Are saying that could be a false reading?


Thank you very much! I only dis/reconnected the sensor but I didn't have that clip. Looks to be a pretty inexpensive part, I'll give that a try as well

Bill Dearborn

Get the ABS codes read before you start tearing things apart. Don't assume you have a certain problem until you verify you do have that problem. There are a bunch of failures that can cause those three messages to be displayed and to know where to start looking you need the ABS codes. Remember the codes don't tell you what to fix only where to start looking and which diagnostic procedure to use to find the fault. There is a real strong suggestion your problem isn't due to the steering sensor connector since your messages include Service ABS. ABS doesn't use the steering sensor.

Here is the TSB related to the connector clip. Notice it states quite clearly it only applies when you get the Service Active Handling message. That means if the other two are being displayed it is a problem common to all 3 functions of the ABS system.
#06-02-35-002B: Stabilitrak/Active Handling Light On, Service Stabilitrak/Active Handling Message on DIC, DTC C0710 Steering Wheel Position Sensor (SWPS) Signal Set (Install Clip in SWPS Connector) - (Oct 19, 2007)


Subject: Stabilitrak/Active Handling Light On, Service Stabilitrak/Active Handling Message on DIC, DTC C0710 Steering Wheel Position Sensor (SWPS) Signal Set (Install Clip in SWPS Connector)

Models: 2008 Buick Lucerne

2004-2008 Cadillac XLR

2006-2008 Cadillac DTS

2005-2008 Chevrolet Corvette

with Steering Wheel - Tilt, Telescoping (RPO N37 or N38)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This bulletin is being revised to update the models and provide new correction information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-02-35-002A (Section 02 -- Steering).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition
Some customers may comment on a Stabilitrak® or Active Handling System light being illuminated. Also, this warning light will be accompanied by a SERVICE STABILITRAK or SERVICE ACTIVE HNDLG message on the DIC.

Diagnosis with a scan tool may reveal a DTC C0710.

Cause
The most likely cause of a DTC C0710 on a vehicle equipped with telescoping/tilt steering wheel is high resistance in SWPS connector C202. Fretting terminal corrosion may be present in the SWPS connector due to the telescoping motion of the steering column. When the steering column is telescoped in and out, the female terminals within the SWPS connector may move on the male terminals of the SWPS. This movement between the terminals may cause a high resistance condition in the SWPS connector.

Correction
Remove the driver's side closeout (insulator) panel.
Locate the SWPS connector that connects to the steering angle sensor, located on the lower center of the steering column.

Install the clip (1), P/N 19179794, into the connector. This clip will act as a terminal positive assurance (TPA) and prevent any movement of the terminals.
Reinstall the closeout panel.
Clear the DTC with a scan tool and road test the vehicle.
If DTC C0710 resets during the road test, refer to DTC C0710 in SI.


Again the sequence is the message telling you something is wrong, then read codes with scanner that can read ABS codes (an OBD II scanner will not do it), once you have the code look up the diagnostic procedure and follow it to the best of your ability including coming up with work arounds for any Tech II command capabilities that are used in the procedure.

Short circuit this process and you are wandering around in the woods, in the dark with a bag over your head and hoping you will find your way home.

Bill

07Z06FAN

I had the exact same thing happen with mine last year. The service ABS,TC,AH.... but I was getting a service engine light. Then the car would not crank at all, even with the key fob plugged in to the backup system in the glove box. Turns out it was the BCM malfunctioning, so 600 later and a new BCM, I haven't any problems. That was about 5K miles ago. I tried replacing the battery in the car as well as the fobs, but nothing corrected it until they replaced the BCM. Good luck.

2V4NOW

Thank you for the TSB! I'm in definite need of a starter and will have the codes pulled while it's getting worked on this Thursday. I'll post up the results..

Luckily I do not have any SES light on! I'm hoping it's a voltage thing related to the starter or the clip fix.. I'll post the codes when I have them.

Thanks fellas!

2V4NOW

Well I got one of my issues fixed.. The starter was indeed bad, solenoid was toast..



Replaced by



I then fired up the Z and took it to my buddy's shop. He pulled the code C0040 (Right front wheel speed sensor) and was coming up immediately as history and not current. He did all the diagnostic tests under the TSB and everything was operating to par. We went out to test drive and the sensor was reading correctly without any spikes. He mentioned it was most likely a module and probably covered under warranty..

I dropped off my car at the dealer on Friday and will find out tomorrow if the issue is covered under warranty.. Hopefully it is!!

Bill Dearborn

That is some serious damage to the solenoid. If the starter wasn't covered under the warranty the ABS won't be covered either. Sort of sounds like you have a wheel bearing going bad or the connector between the sensor and the ABS wiring harness needs to be checked.

Bill

2V4NOW

So they replaced a wheel bearing under warranty but now apparently needs an EBCM..

Where can I get one at a steep discount? The dealer wants $2k to replace!!

07Z06FAN

I was afraid you would have the same results I did. They replaced the starter switch and BCM for 600 at the dealership. Guess I got a bargain if you price was 2K.