[Z06] Crankshaft position sensor... DIY?
05-02-2013, 05:14 PM
#21
Melting Slicks
it's right next to the starter on the passenger side of the engine. it's held in by 1 bolt once you get the car in the air. it should take 5 minutes. it is plug & play
05-03-2013, 08:29 PM
#22
I'm having a similar issue.
When cold, the starter works perfectly. When heat soaked, the starter just barely turns over at first and then gets up to speed. In some cases, all functions well after the heat soak start and in other cases there are issues such as the tach not working. I'm guessing the heat soaked starter is drawing extra current and dropping the voltage causing ECM issues.
The car has headers which are close to the starter so there may be some form of partial starter failure that is aggravated by heat soak.
No codes are thrown.
When cold, the starter works perfectly. When heat soaked, the starter just barely turns over at first and then gets up to speed. In some cases, all functions well after the heat soak start and in other cases there are issues such as the tach not working. I'm guessing the heat soaked starter is drawing extra current and dropping the voltage causing ECM issues.
The car has headers which are close to the starter so there may be some form of partial starter failure that is aggravated by heat soak.
No codes are thrown.
05-19-2013, 09:04 PM
#23
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My starter does the same thing. It stutters sometimes when starting. Thing is, it's only sometimes! Usually, it works fine. I'll pay attention if temperature is a factor.
Will wrapping the exhaust header shield some if the heat?
Will wrapping the exhaust header shield some if the heat?
09-19-2014, 10:14 AM
#24
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Heat Soak causing starting problems.
I've been paying more attention over the last year and a half.
I swapped a bad knock sensor that's above the starter, and the dealership changed the pigtail for the knock sensor.
Over this time, I've replaced the starter 4 times. At first, I figured it was a bad started, then again, and again. I switched from the Tough One started from Adv. Auto and got the AC Delco starter from Rock Auto. I wrapped the starter in a Lingenfelter ceramic steel heat shield hoping that this would fix the problem, but it doesn't.
What I have been able to observe is that the problem happens when the car has been running for a while, so it's definitely a heat issue. I seriously doubt I need a new starter since I've been through 4.
It's worth mentioning that early last year, I got a new engine installed by Koons in McLean, VA (a terrible dealership).
If I have problems starting when hot, and it's not the starter, what else could it be?
I swapped a bad knock sensor that's above the starter, and the dealership changed the pigtail for the knock sensor.
Over this time, I've replaced the starter 4 times. At first, I figured it was a bad started, then again, and again. I switched from the Tough One started from Adv. Auto and got the AC Delco starter from Rock Auto. I wrapped the starter in a Lingenfelter ceramic steel heat shield hoping that this would fix the problem, but it doesn't.
What I have been able to observe is that the problem happens when the car has been running for a while, so it's definitely a heat issue. I seriously doubt I need a new starter since I've been through 4.
It's worth mentioning that early last year, I got a new engine installed by Koons in McLean, VA (a terrible dealership).
If I have problems starting when hot, and it's not the starter, what else could it be?
I'm having a similar issue.
When cold, the starter works perfectly. When heat soaked, the starter just barely turns over at first and then gets up to speed. In some cases, all functions well after the heat soak start and in other cases there are issues such as the tach not working. I'm guessing the heat soaked starter is drawing extra current and dropping the voltage causing ECM issues.
The car has headers which are close to the starter so there may be some form of partial starter failure that is aggravated by heat soak.
No codes are thrown.
When cold, the starter works perfectly. When heat soaked, the starter just barely turns over at first and then gets up to speed. In some cases, all functions well after the heat soak start and in other cases there are issues such as the tach not working. I'm guessing the heat soaked starter is drawing extra current and dropping the voltage causing ECM issues.
The car has headers which are close to the starter so there may be some form of partial starter failure that is aggravated by heat soak.
No codes are thrown.
06-29-2015, 05:05 PM
#25
_Sloth Whisperer_
Member Since: Jul 2008
Location: Malaysia Air Flight 370
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I've been paying more attention over the last year and a half.
I swapped a bad knock sensor that's above the starter, and the dealership changed the pigtail for the knock sensor.
Over this time, I've replaced the starter 4 times. At first, I figured it was a bad started, then again, and again. I switched from the Tough One started from Adv. Auto and got the AC Delco starter from Rock Auto. I wrapped the starter in a Lingenfelter ceramic steel heat shield hoping that this would fix the problem, but it doesn't.
What I have been able to observe is that the problem happens when the car has been running for a while, so it's definitely a heat issue. I seriously doubt I need a new starter since I've been through 4.
It's worth mentioning that early last year, I got a new engine installed by Koons in McLean, VA (a terrible dealership).
If I have problems starting when hot, and it's not the starter, what else could it be?
I swapped a bad knock sensor that's above the starter, and the dealership changed the pigtail for the knock sensor.
Over this time, I've replaced the starter 4 times. At first, I figured it was a bad started, then again, and again. I switched from the Tough One started from Adv. Auto and got the AC Delco starter from Rock Auto. I wrapped the starter in a Lingenfelter ceramic steel heat shield hoping that this would fix the problem, but it doesn't.
What I have been able to observe is that the problem happens when the car has been running for a while, so it's definitely a heat issue. I seriously doubt I need a new starter since I've been through 4.
It's worth mentioning that early last year, I got a new engine installed by Koons in McLean, VA (a terrible dealership).
If I have problems starting when hot, and it's not the starter, what else could it be?
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ClothSeats (02-05-2020)
06-29-2015, 06:56 PM
#26
Just chiming in here, as I was searching for corroboration for my issue. Regarding your approach with wrapping the actual starter, I would absolutely agree that wouldn't help. In fact, I would believe that is counterproductive and a source of expedited failure. Wrapping the actual starter might merely insulate it and promote heat soak versus wrapping the header primaries to keep heat away from it in the first place. I'd want airflow to the starter. It's hot down there.
Think I will make a SS isolator to bolt between the headers and the starter and cover the SS isolator with heatshield to reflect the heat away from the starter and allow cooling airflow for the starter to continue unaffected. This minor ****le of the slow initial turn has been on my car for 6 years and never changed so not certain exactly why the problem exists but of course it always worries me in case it totally craps itself.
As for those who have other electronic codes and no tach / door opening issues etc etc , before throwing away the car battery etc I would strongly suggest disconnecting the battery and then reconnecting it after a few minutes because a lot of these types of issues are computer corruption caused by a low voltage at some time. Often people confuse replacement of the battery as the cure when in fact it is the disconnection of the battery that has cleared the corruption. Modern cars do not like low voltages (often caused during cranking with half flat battery) and this causes total corruption of the computers. The only way to clear this is to disconnect the battery then power up again - no different to the home PC.
02-28-2019, 09:41 PM
#27
Drifting
Thanks for this, you just relieved a lot of stress for me, car has been sitting for two weeks because I did not want to deal with this issue
Crank sensor is located just above the starter and below the headers.
To get to the sensor, removal of the starter is nessasary. Also if it is a 06+ Zo6 you might need to remove the exhaust. I have aftermarket and dont have too.
Sensor is held in with one small bolt.
No special tools required other than ratches wrenches extensions and sockets
Relearn of the sensor is not nessasary.
Id say I could change one out in about 1.5 hours time. But ive done it a couple times. So id say give yourself a little more time. Upon final install, if the car doesnt crank dont be alarmed. Loosen the starter and retighten it. Ive had it simply bind up before and not crank.
Be careful when the P0335 Code sets. Ive had a fellow members car on here throw that code when in fact I believe the starter was junk. In the code description it says in the manual that this code will set if the car tries and fails to fire or start in two consecutive tries. But since you say that your car did infact start and run like *** and the RPM reads 0 (dead give away). Id have a better feeling that this could be the culprit.
Ive changed out this sensor so many times its rediculious.. even changed the wiring harness trying to find the problem
To get to the sensor, removal of the starter is nessasary. Also if it is a 06+ Zo6 you might need to remove the exhaust. I have aftermarket and dont have too.
Sensor is held in with one small bolt.
No special tools required other than ratches wrenches extensions and sockets
Relearn of the sensor is not nessasary.
Id say I could change one out in about 1.5 hours time. But ive done it a couple times. So id say give yourself a little more time. Upon final install, if the car doesnt crank dont be alarmed. Loosen the starter and retighten it. Ive had it simply bind up before and not crank.
Be careful when the P0335 Code sets. Ive had a fellow members car on here throw that code when in fact I believe the starter was junk. In the code description it says in the manual that this code will set if the car tries and fails to fire or start in two consecutive tries. But since you say that your car did infact start and run like *** and the RPM reads 0 (dead give away). Id have a better feeling that this could be the culprit.
Ive changed out this sensor so many times its rediculious.. even changed the wiring harness trying to find the problem