[Z06] Crankshaft position sensor... DIY?
#1
Heel & Toe
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Crankshaft position sensor... DIY?
After a couple of episodes where my 2006 Z06 was hard to start. I retrieved the diagnostic code P0335. This translates to a faulty crankshaft position sensor. I originally was thinking the battery needed replacing, however; it checked-out ok.
The symptoms are:
- The car is hard to start (requiring several attempts), then once started runs very rough, like it's misfiring.
- Poor thottle response.
- Sometimes the tach shows 0 rpm, while motor is running.
- Can't use fob to open/start car. Have to open the trunk with key, then pull the door release. To start, have to put fob in slot in glove box.
I went ahead and ordered a new crankshaft position sensor with the hope I can replace the part myself. Being mildly mechanically inclined (I have replaced the waterpump, brake pads/rotors myself), I have questions for anyone who might know about this procedure.
1. Where is the sensor located?
2. Does replacing require removal/disassembly of other parts on LS7?
2. Are any special tools required?
3. On some cars I read that once it's replaced the crankshaft position needs to be "relearned" by using special electrical equipment (Tech2?).
Is this required for a 2006 Z06?
4. Is this a DIY job, or should I take it to a shop?
Thanks,
Travis
The symptoms are:
- The car is hard to start (requiring several attempts), then once started runs very rough, like it's misfiring.
- Poor thottle response.
- Sometimes the tach shows 0 rpm, while motor is running.
- Can't use fob to open/start car. Have to open the trunk with key, then pull the door release. To start, have to put fob in slot in glove box.
I went ahead and ordered a new crankshaft position sensor with the hope I can replace the part myself. Being mildly mechanically inclined (I have replaced the waterpump, brake pads/rotors myself), I have questions for anyone who might know about this procedure.
1. Where is the sensor located?
2. Does replacing require removal/disassembly of other parts on LS7?
2. Are any special tools required?
3. On some cars I read that once it's replaced the crankshaft position needs to be "relearned" by using special electrical equipment (Tech2?).
Is this required for a 2006 Z06?
4. Is this a DIY job, or should I take it to a shop?
Thanks,
Travis
#2
Burning Brakes
#3
Burning Brakes
Crank sensor is located just above the starter and below the headers.
To get to the sensor, removal of the starter is nessasary. Also if it is a 06+ Zo6 you might need to remove the exhaust. I have aftermarket and dont have too.
Sensor is held in with one small bolt.
No special tools required other than ratches wrenches extensions and sockets
Relearn of the sensor is not nessasary.
Id say I could change one out in about 1.5 hours time. But ive done it a couple times. So id say give yourself a little more time. Upon final install, if the car doesnt crank dont be alarmed. Loosen the starter and retighten it. Ive had it simply bind up before and not crank.
Be careful when the P0335 Code sets. Ive had a fellow members car on here throw that code when in fact I believe the starter was junk. In the code description it says in the manual that this code will set if the car tries and fails to fire or start in two consecutive tries. But since you say that your car did infact start and run like *** and the RPM reads 0 (dead give away). Id have a better feeling that this could be the culprit.
Ive changed out this sensor so many times its rediculious.. even changed the wiring harness trying to find the problem
To get to the sensor, removal of the starter is nessasary. Also if it is a 06+ Zo6 you might need to remove the exhaust. I have aftermarket and dont have too.
Sensor is held in with one small bolt.
No special tools required other than ratches wrenches extensions and sockets
Relearn of the sensor is not nessasary.
Id say I could change one out in about 1.5 hours time. But ive done it a couple times. So id say give yourself a little more time. Upon final install, if the car doesnt crank dont be alarmed. Loosen the starter and retighten it. Ive had it simply bind up before and not crank.
Be careful when the P0335 Code sets. Ive had a fellow members car on here throw that code when in fact I believe the starter was junk. In the code description it says in the manual that this code will set if the car tries and fails to fire or start in two consecutive tries. But since you say that your car did infact start and run like *** and the RPM reads 0 (dead give away). Id have a better feeling that this could be the culprit.
Ive changed out this sensor so many times its rediculious.. even changed the wiring harness trying to find the problem
Last edited by Screamin Z; 08-14-2012 at 04:12 PM.
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Danny Gasca (08-20-2021)
#4
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#5
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Crank sensor is located just above the starter and below the headers.
To get to the sensor, removal of the starter is nessasary. Also if it is a 06+ Zo6 you might need to remove the exhaust. I have aftermarket and dont have too.
Sensor is held in with one small bolt.
No special tools required other than ratches wrenches extensions and sockets
Relearn of the sensor is not nessasary.
Id say I could change one out in about 1.5 hours time. But ive done it a couple times. So id say give yourself a little more time. Upon final install, if the car doesnt crank dont be alarmed. Loosen the starter and retighten it. Ive had it simply bind up before and not crank.
Be careful when the P0335 Code sets. Ive had a fellow members car on here throw that code when in fact I believe the starter was junk. In the code description it says in the manual that this code will set if the car tries and fails to fire or start in two consecutive tries. But since you say that your car did infact start and run like *** and the RPM reads 0 (dead give away). Id have a better feeling that this could be the culprit.
Ive changed out this sensor so many times its rediculious.. even changed the wiring harness trying to find the problem
To get to the sensor, removal of the starter is nessasary. Also if it is a 06+ Zo6 you might need to remove the exhaust. I have aftermarket and dont have too.
Sensor is held in with one small bolt.
No special tools required other than ratches wrenches extensions and sockets
Relearn of the sensor is not nessasary.
Id say I could change one out in about 1.5 hours time. But ive done it a couple times. So id say give yourself a little more time. Upon final install, if the car doesnt crank dont be alarmed. Loosen the starter and retighten it. Ive had it simply bind up before and not crank.
Be careful when the P0335 Code sets. Ive had a fellow members car on here throw that code when in fact I believe the starter was junk. In the code description it says in the manual that this code will set if the car tries and fails to fire or start in two consecutive tries. But since you say that your car did infact start and run like *** and the RPM reads 0 (dead give away). Id have a better feeling that this could be the culprit.
Ive changed out this sensor so many times its rediculious.. even changed the wiring harness trying to find the problem
Thanks a ton for the info! It does seem logical that the hard starts, poor throttle response, apparent misfires, and tac being stuck at 0 rpm could be the result of a faulty crankshaft position sensor. I however, don't know if it could have anything to do with my fobs issues... weird.
#6
Burning Brakes
Weird is the key word on the eletrical system on these cars.
If you have a charging system problem.. Step one is to check the HORN FUSE!! WTF! Damn engineers
If you have a charging system problem.. Step one is to check the HORN FUSE!! WTF! Damn engineers
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#8
Burning Brakes
#9
Racer
I had a similar issue, car was doing same thing as yours especially after some heavy traffic / high temps . The car was showing 0 on tac , code was same .. changed battery and problem disappeared .. my tuner suggested heat wrapping the headers, because they are very close to the starter and has seen that cause similar issues ..
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#11
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I had a similar issue, car was doing same thing as yours especially after some heavy traffic / high temps . The car was showing 0 on tac , code was same .. changed battery and problem disappeared .. my tuner suggested heat wrapping the headers, because they are very close to the starter and has seen that cause similar issues ..
#12
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I think I had the exact same problem that I posted about it couple months ago. changed the battery and the problem was still there (got a little better) but I changed the starter couple weeks later and it was solved. but I never had a check engine light so not sure if yours is the same or not....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndZoZ...layer_embedded
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndZoZ...layer_embedded
#14
Did you have luck with this issue? I'm actually trying to solve the same/similar problem on my LS7. How did you replace the sensor? I'm not sure I see it.
After a couple of episodes where my 2006 Z06 was hard to start. I retrieved the diagnostic code P0335. This translates to a faulty crankshaft position sensor. I originally was thinking the battery needed replacing, however; it checked-out ok.
The symptoms are:
- The car is hard to start (requiring several attempts), then once started runs very rough, like it's misfiring.
- Poor thottle response.
- Sometimes the tach shows 0 rpm, while motor is running.
- Can't use fob to open/start car. Have to open the trunk with key, then pull the door release. To start, have to put fob in slot in glove box.
I went ahead and ordered a new crankshaft position sensor with the hope I can replace the part myself. Being mildly mechanically inclined (I have replaced the waterpump, brake pads/rotors myself), I have questions for anyone who might know about this procedure.
1. Where is the sensor located?
2. Does replacing require removal/disassembly of other parts on LS7?
2. Are any special tools required?
3. On some cars I read that once it's replaced the crankshaft position needs to be "relearned" by using special electrical equipment (Tech2?).
Is this required for a 2006 Z06?
4. Is this a DIY job, or should I take it to a shop?
Thanks,
Travis
The symptoms are:
- The car is hard to start (requiring several attempts), then once started runs very rough, like it's misfiring.
- Poor thottle response.
- Sometimes the tach shows 0 rpm, while motor is running.
- Can't use fob to open/start car. Have to open the trunk with key, then pull the door release. To start, have to put fob in slot in glove box.
I went ahead and ordered a new crankshaft position sensor with the hope I can replace the part myself. Being mildly mechanically inclined (I have replaced the waterpump, brake pads/rotors myself), I have questions for anyone who might know about this procedure.
1. Where is the sensor located?
2. Does replacing require removal/disassembly of other parts on LS7?
2. Are any special tools required?
3. On some cars I read that once it's replaced the crankshaft position needs to be "relearned" by using special electrical equipment (Tech2?).
Is this required for a 2006 Z06?
4. Is this a DIY job, or should I take it to a shop?
Thanks,
Travis
#15
Pro
Crank sensor is located just above the starter and below the headers.
To get to the sensor, removal of the starter is nessasary. Also if it is a 06+ Zo6 you might need to remove the exhaust. I have aftermarket and dont have too.
Sensor is held in with one small bolt.
No special tools required other than ratches wrenches extensions and sockets
Relearn of the sensor is not nessasary.
Id say I could change one out in about 1.5 hours time. But ive done it a couple times. So id say give yourself a little more time. Upon final install, if the car doesnt crank dont be alarmed. Loosen the starter and retighten it. Ive had it simply bind up before and not crank.
Be careful when the P0335 Code sets. Ive had a fellow members car on here throw that code when in fact I believe the starter was junk. In the code description it says in the manual that this code will set if the car tries and fails to fire or start in two consecutive tries. But since you say that your car did infact start and run like *** and the RPM reads 0 (dead give away). Id have a better feeling that this could be the culprit.
Ive changed out this sensor so many times its rediculious.. even changed the wiring harness trying to find the problem
To get to the sensor, removal of the starter is nessasary. Also if it is a 06+ Zo6 you might need to remove the exhaust. I have aftermarket and dont have too.
Sensor is held in with one small bolt.
No special tools required other than ratches wrenches extensions and sockets
Relearn of the sensor is not nessasary.
Id say I could change one out in about 1.5 hours time. But ive done it a couple times. So id say give yourself a little more time. Upon final install, if the car doesnt crank dont be alarmed. Loosen the starter and retighten it. Ive had it simply bind up before and not crank.
Be careful when the P0335 Code sets. Ive had a fellow members car on here throw that code when in fact I believe the starter was junk. In the code description it says in the manual that this code will set if the car tries and fails to fire or start in two consecutive tries. But since you say that your car did infact start and run like *** and the RPM reads 0 (dead give away). Id have a better feeling that this could be the culprit.
Ive changed out this sensor so many times its rediculious.. even changed the wiring harness trying to find the problem
Make certain of routing of wiring. Is charge voltage around 14 to 14.4 VDC? At the battery? Starter should not be "Dragging" . Be cautious! This code may or may not be a faulty CKP Sensor. CKP Sensor signal can be verified with a digital voltage meter.
The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor circuits consist of an engine control module (ECM) supplied 5-volt reference circuit, low reference circuit and an output signal circuit. The CKP sensor is an internally magnetic biased digital output integrated circuit sensing device. The sensor detects magnetic flux changes between the peaks and valleys of a 58-tooth reluctor wheel on the crankshaft. Each tooth on the reluctor wheel is spaced at 60-tooth spacing, with 2 missing teeth for the reference gap. The CKP sensor produces an ON/OFF DC voltage of varying frequency, with 58 output pulses per crankshaft revolution. The frequency of the CKP sensor output depends on the velocity of the crankshaft. The CKP sensor sends a digital signal, which represents an image of the crankshaft reluctor wheel, to the ECM as each tooth on the wheel rotates past the CKP sensor. The ECM uses each CKP signal pulse to determine crankshaft speed and decodes the crankshaft reluctor wheel reference gap to identify crankshaft position. This information is then used to sequence the ignition timing and fuel injection events for the engine. The ECM also uses CKP sensor output information to determine the crankshaft relative position to the camshaft, to detect cylinder misfire, and to control the CMP actuator if equipped.
#16
Racer
I changed mine with a swivel socket and a pair of needle nose pliers. I didnt remove anything on mine and did it in 30 mins. But that was me being a mechanic ...... Oh and I unpluged it and reinstalled the clip with a screwdriver....
The following 2 users liked this post by trickability:
Centennial (08-23-2021),
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#17
Burning Brakes
The fault in my system was either the pigtail from the main wiring harness to the cam sensor. Or the sensor itself. If the cam and crank sensors are not on the same sequence timing will be way off or not start/run at all.
#18
So did you change both at the same time?
Does the sensor kit sold at the auto parts store come with the pigtail already?
Does the sensor kit sold at the auto parts store come with the pigtail already?
#20
I'm also getting the code for the CKP. How do I use the DVM to check the sensor? where do I place the leads, and what am I looking for to pass/fail?