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[Z06] Driver door won't open - anyone have fuse box diagram?

Old 01-24-2013, 03:36 PM
  #21  
Gyrobob
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Originally Posted by erikszr1
when i originally had this issue i installed a new latch assy. also and thought it was fixed.......untill the next day and had same issue. then i dug deeper and found the corroded/green contacts and fixed it that way. either way hope yours is ok now.
How do you remove the latch?
Old 01-24-2013, 07:55 PM
  #22  
Gyrobob
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Originally Posted by Gyrobob
I have a similar problem. On the passenger door, when the outside pad or the inside button on the door is pushed, the window moves down a bit like it is supposed to, but the door won't open. The inside mechanical lever on the floor works, but the door won't open electrically.

The driver door works fine.

I took the exterior rubber pad switch off and cleaned up the contacts inside. They were a little cruddy, but not bad. When I reassembled it, there was no improvement.

To sum up, when the exterior rubber pad is used or when the interior door button is used, the only thing that happens is that the window moves down 1/4" like it is supposed to,.. and door stays shut. The door can easily be opened with the mechanical release on the floor.

Which parts need to be replaced?
Well, I took the trim pieces off and took out the door latch assembly. Cleaned and lubed it all. It is riveted together rather substantially so there is no easy way to get to the inside to deal with the solenoid (or motor).

Still doesn't work. It appears the solenoid (or little motor) inside the black housing has gotten a lot weaker. It tries to move the latch, but can't pull hard enough to unlock the door. The cable from the mechanical latch on the floor still opens the door fine.

I guess, then, I'll have to order a new one. The local chevy is OOS, and says they can have one in a week or two.

Which internet parts place has the best combination of price, service, and reliability? So far I have checked out GMparts.com and GMpartsdirect.com. They are about $50 cheaper than the dealer, and can probably have the part here sooner.

My suspicion is that the part number is 88956721.

Thanks for any help or info any of you can provide.
Old 01-24-2013, 08:33 PM
  #23  
Bill Dearborn
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Originally Posted by Buford405
I pulled the latch release and a part fell out. Found a used part at a local salvage yard for $85 without the cables. Dealer wanted $198, needGMparts.com wanted $138, GMpartshouse.com wanted $158. The salvage part works like new.
Great diagnosis and part finding. Like they say everybody drives on used parts. No sense paying for new when used will work just as well.

Bill
Old 01-24-2013, 08:35 PM
  #24  
Bill Dearborn
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Originally Posted by Gyrobob
Well, I took the trim pieces off and took out the door latch assembly. Cleaned and lubed it all. It is riveted together rather substantially so there is no easy way to get to the inside to deal with the solenoid (or motor).

Still doesn't work. It appears the solenoid (or little motor) inside the black housing has gotten a lot weaker. It tries to move the latch, but can't pull hard enough to unlock the door. The cable from the mechanical latch on the floor still opens the door fine.

I guess, then, I'll have to order a new one. The local chevy is OOS, and says they can have one in a week or two.

Which internet parts place has the best combination of price, service, and reliability? So far I have checked out GMparts.com and GMpartsdirect.com. They are about $50 cheaper than the dealer, and can probably have the part here sooner.

My suspicion is that the part number is 88956721.

Thanks for any help or info any of you can provide.
Do like the OP did. Call some used parts places and see if you can get a used one in the same amount of time. Call Adair's in Arkansas and see what he has 870-932-2388.

Bill
Old 01-24-2013, 09:14 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn
Do like the OP did. Call some used parts places and see if you can get a used one in the same amount of time. Call Adair's in Arkansas and see what he has 870-932-2388.

Bill
I tried several in the Atlanta area. I'll try Adair's tomorrow. Thanks.
Old 01-26-2013, 10:43 PM
  #26  
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I took the door latch mechanism out, disassembled as far as I could, cleaned it up and lubed it. That assembly is riveted together so you can't actually get inside to see what is not working properly.

It still doesn't work. When the door button is actuated, you can see the little part inside the latch mechanism trying to move, but it acts as if the motor or solenoid, whatever, is just really weak and not able to unlatch the latch.

I will get a new latch from the dealer on Monday.

drat.
Old 10-22-2014, 08:57 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Gyrobob
I have a similar problem. On the passenger door, when the outside pad or the inside button on the door is pushed, the window moves down a bit like it is supposed to, but the door won't open. The inside mechanical lever on the floor works, but the door won't open electrically.

The driver door works fine.

I took the exterior rubber pad switch off and cleaned up the contacts inside. They were a little cruddy, but not bad. When I reassembled it, there was no improvement.

To sum up, when the exterior rubber pad is used or when the interior door button is used, the only thing that happens is that the window moves down 1/4" like it is supposed to,.. and door stays shut. The door can easily be opened with the mechanical release on the floor.

Which parts need to be replaced?



@Gyrobob, i know its 2014 its this is from 2009 but hopefully you remember the fix that you did on the door lock. I am having the same problem, its going down 1/4 of the way, but wont open all the way except if i do it with the release mechanism from the side of the door or truck.

I actually pulled the lock out manually and than with the door open pushed the open button and you can hear it trying to open but doesnt have enough power to open it fully.

If you can help me that would be great! Thanks

Last edited by azul_vette; 10-22-2014 at 08:59 PM. Reason: name change
Old 10-23-2014, 06:59 PM
  #28  
Bill Dearborn
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It sounds like you need a new latch. However, make sure the wiring from the power source to the latch is in good shape and all connections are sound. If you have a high resistance power path the latch won't get enough current to work properly.

Bill
Old 10-24-2014, 12:09 AM
  #29  
UsernameProtected
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Originally Posted by azul_vette
@Gyrobob, i know its 2014 its this is from 2009 but hopefully you remember the fix that you did on the door lock. I am having the same problem, its going down 1/4 of the way, but wont open all the way except if i do it with the release mechanism from the side of the door or truck.

I actually pulled the lock out manually and than with the door open pushed the open button and you can hear it trying to open but doesnt have enough power to open it fully.

If you can help me that would be great! Thanks
I just had the same issue over the weekend. I tired lubing it with WD-40, but that didn't help. The part was around $220 at the closest Chevy dealer...had to wait overnight for it to arrive. My time was more valuable than searching around and waiting days or weeks to save a few dollars on the part. Those who don't daily drive their Corvettes probably wouldn't mind waiting a bit to save a few bucks.

The removal & installation is really simple. The door sill trim piece gets removed, then the interior side panel. Then remove the torx screws visible on the door jamb, and pull the latch solenoid out from inside the car. Remove the plastic cover (2 smaller torx screws), then disconnect the cables. Reverse the steps to reinstall. The only tools I used were a 1/4" drive ratchet, a couple of torx sockets, and a flat blade screwdriver.

My first time doing any service work on a Corvette, and it took about 15-20 minutes. I broke one plastic attachment piece on the door sill plastic, so I had to epoxy it back. I honestly believe GM engineered the Corvette interior to be assembled only one time.

Door release works like new now, as it should I guess, since it is new.
Old 01-25-2022, 12:46 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn
Doubt it is the BCM. Symptoms point to the door latch in the B pillar. The door lock system includes the door switch on the outside, the door switch on the inside, the door module which controls the window and the door latch and then the door latch itself. If everything from the switch to the windows is working and the latch makes some noise like it is trying to release you need a new latch. The manual door pull overrides the electrical portion of the latch so you can't use that as a way of eliminating the latch. Been down this road before with my car although mine was covered under warranty.

Bill
What would you say about my issue i currently have thats similar; outdoor and indoor release doesnt work, the outside release WAS working a couple of days ago when the latch itself was pushed in like the door was closed but it wasnt and it would unlatch when i pressed the outside door release but now it doesnt. . the windows or locks dont work. the only thing that works now is the emergency door openers from the side of the seat and the trunk. the passenger door works fine, all the buttons n stuff.
Old 06-14-2022, 03:13 PM
  #31  
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Same issue here on drivers side door. Works sometimes and sometimes not. Will replace door latch at next service.


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