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Old 02-12-2013, 10:15 PM   #1
1rawTA
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Default Most power to be had without opening up the engine

Guys im sure this has been asked before, but i am going to ask again

I have a 2006 Z06 in the fall i installed longtubes M2W and halltech intake.. Then i put it away for winter

I was tossing around the idea of a cam, but i also am tossing around the idea of not opening up the motor to affect driveability..

What kind of power can be made with a fast 102 intake manifold 102 throttle body along with my kooks headers ORY and halltech? Is it worth the 1500 for the manifold and throttle body without changing the cam out?

Thanks for your help
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:20 PM   #2
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I wouldn't change the intake manifold without changing the cam. Maybe port the stocker.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:25 PM   #3
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Cam does unlock alot of power but 102 int and 102 tb with headers (heads?) Has all your bases covered. A true 100 rwhp over base is realistic depending on a good tuner.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:31 PM   #4
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Cam does unlock alot of power but 102 int and 102 tb with headers (heads?) Has all your bases covered. A true 100 rwhp over base is realistic depending on a good tuner.
I was trying to make about 515whp for under 2k without doing a cam and sacrificing drivability
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToppThat View Post
Cam does unlock alot of power but 102 int and 102 tb with headers (heads?) Has all your bases covered. A true 100 rwhp over base is realistic depending on a good tuner.
100 additional hp with no cam? I'm going to respectfully disagree with that statement. I haven't seen anyone on this forum or anywhere else hit 560 at the wheels with just bolt ons. If they did they need to speak up cause many of us have wasted tons of money to get to 570-580 hp!
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
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I was trying to make about 515whp for under 2k without doing a cam and sacrificing drivability
515 is a little more realistic of a number supposing you based somewhere around 450-460.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:36 PM   #7
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I have an 06 Z06 with a ported LS7 intake, PFADT headers w/ cats, Haltech mf103 cai, WCCH stage 2 heads milled .030 and tuned on 91 octane. Depending on the type dyno and the weather conditions. I have put down anywhere from 488rwhp and 457 rwtq to 502 rwhp and 462 rwtq. I'm not sure what type of gas you have (91/93) but if you added the FAST intake and could tune for 93 octane. I'm sure you could get another 10-12 peak and probably more over the curve. Take the cats off and maybe even more. I know I have an average car when it comes to dyno numbers and performance. I have friends with just headers and CAI that are dead even with me. So keep in mind every car is a little different..Good luck
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
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515 is a little more realistic of a number supposing you based somewhere around 450-460.

The headers and intake are installed.. so i figured once i was tuned i would be around the 500WHP mark..

A small cam would probally cost 2300 installed and take me to the 525-530 WHP mark..

Now for driveability purposes, If i could get a 102/102 setup and make 515whp with perfect driveability i would go that route
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sm5654 View Post
100 additional hp with no cam? I'm going to respectfully disagree with that statement. I haven't seen anyone on this forum or anywhere else hit 560 at the wheels with just bolt ons. If they did they need to speak up cause many of us have wasted tons of money to get to 570-580 hp!
I didnt mean no cam and my H/C 100 increase had about 8300 in parts only.(int.tb.vara.kooks.mast.p.rods lifters.f.rails.studs.tim.set.comp cam.ect.)
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1rawTA View Post
The headers and intake are installed.. so i figured once i was tuned i would be around the 500WHP mark..

A small cam would probally cost 2300 installed and take me to the 525-530 WHP mark..

Now for driveability purposes, If i could get a 102/102 setup and make 515whp with perfect driveability i would go that route
No aftermarket cam is going to drive 100% like stock because it isn't stock. But there are a lot of cams out there and a lot of great tuners that can make it seem very very close. Personal opinon I think you will get a lot more bang for your buck with the cam and keep drivability really close to stock.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToppThat View Post
I didnt mean no cam and my H/C 100 increase had about 8300 in parts only.(int.tb.vara.kooks.mast.p.rods lifters.f.rails.studs.tim.set.comp cam.ect.)
Ok that makes sense.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:14 AM   #12
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bolt on a supercharger and get the best of all worlds.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:43 AM   #13
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I sometimes wonder why dyno numbers are so important to some people. Not to put the op down, but few of us are able to tell the difference between 500hp and 525hp on the street. On the track or strip, that is a different story, where timers will be able to differentiate between the two. I am very happy with my bolt on 08Z with 487rwhp on a conservative Dynopak dyno. All I know is that if I punch the throttle in first or second gear, the Michelins fry. That's enough to make me happy. When I need more, my bracket C4 runs low 10's all day. Dyno war bragging rights don't interest me.
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:42 AM   #14
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I sometimes wonder why dyno numbers are so important to some people. Not to put the op down, but few of us are able to tell the difference between 500hp and 525hp on the street. On the track or strip, that is a different story, where timers will be able to differentiate between the two. I am very happy with my bolt on 08Z with 487rwhp on a conservative Dynopak dyno. All I know is that if I punch the throttle in first or second gear, the Michelins fry. That's enough to make me happy. When I need more, my bracket C4 runs low 10's all day. Dyno war bragging rights don't interest me.
Having a base dyno no matter which type does make us feel better after pouring buckets of money into an already big investment.And 100 rw does feel great,but 200-- F.I induced is gonna be excellent. Money be damned.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:51 AM   #15
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I just saw this issue Saturday on Horsepower TV. They strapped a stock Z06 onto a dyno and did the test runs. I think the stock numbers at the rear wheels was around 465hp. They then installed an HP Tuner with a computer and managed 504hp at the rear wheels. Perhaps someone else can remember the torque numbers.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:52 AM   #16
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The most effective way to make most out of your Bolt-On without digging too deep would be to do the following to your existing setup.
1. Port the stock intake as mentioned above. (A ported FAST 102 will give you a good deal of TQ, but is very expensive.)
2. Port the stock TB. (NW 102 is not necessary and will produce very little if any gains.)
3. A good dyno tune. (This is a must.)

Later on you could add a set of 4.10s and a LW clutch if you so desire. Sticky tires will be necessary to get the power to the ground.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:55 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JwT View Post
I just saw this issue Saturday on Horsepower TV. They strapped a stock Z06 onto a dyno and did the test runs. I think the stock numbers at the rear wheels was around 465hp. They then installed an HP Tuner with a computer and managed 504hp at the rear wheels. Perhaps someone else can remember the torque numbers.
Sounds like a very happy dyno.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:07 AM   #18
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'Gary' mentioned lower gears. Gears will give you a lot. I haven't yet.....but I have always geared down my cars. It's hard to get a better 'seat of the pants' feel.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:23 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Sounds like a very happy dyno.
7.92% loss.How can anyone believe thats correct?
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:12 AM   #20
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7.92% loss.How can anyone believe thats correct?
What's your question?
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:12 AM
 
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