[Z06] Elite Engineering Catch Can Install
#41
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You guys are thinking too hard. There will always be a pressure diff in favor of flow to the intake. These cans work. Any of them will work as long as there is a change in direction of flow and press/velocity change. Think of knock out drums in any gas processing facility. Same concept.
Spinning/centrifugal movement is best, but needed? Doughtfull. Paper? Sure, but will you know if or when it gets plugged?
Spinning/centrifugal movement is best, but needed? Doughtfull. Paper? Sure, but will you know if or when it gets plugged?
don't even want to think of what a belch of explosive vapor into the crankcase would bring about...but that is precisely why we are thinking so hard!
believe most of us have paper air and oil filters we check and change at intervals--wouldn't we do the same for a paper catch can filter?
thus the clear bowls for them, i should think;
BTW, no less than Jegs sell a seemingly good copy of the Conceptual Polymer can, for about a third the price, making it very competitive with the E. E. models;
#42
Team Owner
I just installed one of these EE cans. I was using a can from RX, but it was just too tall. I couldn’t for the life of me figure out how to mount the damn thing where it wasn’t either rubbing on a hose or the hood liner coming in contact with it. So….the EE Can being a bit shorter worked out quite well. It is vastly superior to the RX can as far as quality of product and work too. It really is a nice piece of work. The was a bit apprehensive when I saw the coiled up mess of metal coils in the top section though. So, I took it apart and checked it out. After fiddle fart/f’ing around with the crap (which looks a whole lot like the coiled shavings discarded in the lathe bin), I stuffed it back in without much fear of it finding its way to the combustion chamber.
Michael, I'm glad to see we both like the EE can. Is it perfect, no. Is it good and effective and fit our motors, yes. On my C5 I used almost every can available. I had one in the PCV line as well as the fresh air line. I had a small paper filtered fuel/air filter following each one so I could visably see what was getting past the main can. I thought the EE performed best. On my C6Z it was the only can that fit properly. I also tried the RX and like you found it was too large.
I think your idea of pulling vaccuum out the top is counter productive. The whole idea is to give the oil a chance/time to coalesce on the metal lathe shvings and drop to the bottom of the can. Reversing the flow in my opinion would pull the vapor from the side right up through the top with little time for coalescing. The flow would be working in opposition to gravity instead of in conjunction.
I forgot where I got it and have since given it away but I had a can that was dual chambered on top with metal shavings. Inlet and outlet were both on top. So air/oil went in top throught onside of the chamber out into the tank and the up through the other side of the chamber. It was a very small can though.
DH
#43
Team Owner
seriously, DH?
i certainly am ignorant when compared to the scientists and engineers at the Conceptual Polymer website i referenced as the basis for my conclusions;
i do believe they've taken apart an oil catch can or two almost exactly like your vaunted EE cans before they drew their conclusions, which are supported by incontrovertible facts far above either your or my opinions;
if you're a senior member breaking off so quickly into an insulting and non-factual diatribe with little more than your opinion to support it, i have to question whether i want to be a member of this forum;
i certainly am ignorant when compared to the scientists and engineers at the Conceptual Polymer website i referenced as the basis for my conclusions;
i do believe they've taken apart an oil catch can or two almost exactly like your vaunted EE cans before they drew their conclusions, which are supported by incontrovertible facts far above either your or my opinions;
if you're a senior member breaking off so quickly into an insulting and non-factual diatribe with little more than your opinion to support it, i have to question whether i want to be a member of this forum;
The fact is that EE cans are quite effective and safe. This has been proven by hundreds if not more member here since the 10 years I have been a member including my self. Does that mean there are not MORE effective cans. Not at all. Let me know when you have tried one that works beter than the EE and fits under the FRC and I will buy it.
DH
#45
Team Owner
DH
#46
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 1999
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He is busy counting all the members who are replacing their stock exhaust valves. He told me he went to Staples to stock up on pens and paper to help keep track of all the guys who will be replacing the OEM valves with the new stronger heavier hollow soon to be tested and approved by Katech.
DH
DH
#47
Team Owner
Getting back on topic, do you have any catch can experience to share?
DH
#48
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Yep, luv my EE and no complaits what so ever.
But... I was thinking of drilling/tapping the lower side of the main body and installing a drain-****. That would make drainage so much easier.
#49
Team Owner
DH
#50
Team Owner
Thread Starter
You "figured" wrong. But then again, what else is new???? Weren't you the one up in arms about grinder marks??? If the PRC heads were so great, well then why are you planning a "side shift" regarding having Ferrea valves swapped out for the valves that they sold you??? :
Kohl, got a question...
I've got PRC 265s on my 101K mile Z06. At some point I'll end up pulling the whole engine to do a complete R&R. At that time I'll want to go thru my PRCs.
Can you;
1) Remove the bronze and install your new PM guides?
2) Install Ferrea's hollow stem exaust valves?
3) Install PSI's 1115 Behive springs?
4) Touch-up the heads? (skim cut, valve job etc)
I've got PRC 265s on my 101K mile Z06. At some point I'll end up pulling the whole engine to do a complete R&R. At that time I'll want to go thru my PRCs.
Can you;
1) Remove the bronze and install your new PM guides?
2) Install Ferrea's hollow stem exaust valves?
3) Install PSI's 1115 Behive springs?
4) Touch-up the heads? (skim cut, valve job etc)
Newsflash for you Undy. Don't rip on me, and I won't rip on you.
Deal????? :
I'm right here.
Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; 09-19-2014 at 08:13 PM.
#51
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You "figured" wrong. But then again, what else is new???? Weren't you the one up in arms about grinder marks??? If the PRC heads were so great, well then why are you planning a "side shift" regarding having Ferrea valves swapped out for the valves that they sold you??? :
I'm right here.
I'm right here.
The hollow valves has nothing to do with me liking or disliking the PRCs. Those valves were not even an option at the time. If they were I'd have ordered them installed in the PRCs.
Last edited by Undy; 09-19-2014 at 08:24 PM.
#52
Team Owner
Thread Starter
The only thing I would wish different in their report would be it being released earlier, prior to me going with my solid stainless valves and dual springs. I'm not really too worried about it though, because the car is not tracked and only visited the drag strip once, with less than 6 total runs. The rest of the time it never sees anything near 7K RPM.
Having said that, the next time I do another wiggle test I'll replace my dual springs with a set of Katech sourced PSI behives with Ti retainers. My engine is almost @ 100K miles now and when I decide to pull it for a complete refresh I'll replace the solid exhaust valves with a set of Ferrea hollow stem stainless valves.
I still don't trust the sodium exhausts as I believe they are weaker than both solid and hollow stainless valves. I just think they would be more resistant to breakage than the sodiums. Admittedly, if the new guides are the 100% fix then the sodiums would be fine. Time will tell on that...
Having said that, the next time I do another wiggle test I'll replace my dual springs with a set of Katech sourced PSI behives with Ti retainers. My engine is almost @ 100K miles now and when I decide to pull it for a complete refresh I'll replace the solid exhaust valves with a set of Ferrea hollow stem stainless valves.
I still don't trust the sodium exhausts as I believe they are weaker than both solid and hollow stainless valves. I just think they would be more resistant to breakage than the sodiums. Admittedly, if the new guides are the 100% fix then the sodiums would be fine. Time will tell on that...
You really should have left this alone man. But remember, you started it.
Or wait a minute....... would you have ordered titanium exhaust valves???
I would agree...
Personally, I think it's the Torquer 110 that's holding me back. It definitely drops off on the top end. I've got 97K on the short-block (and car). When I pull my motor in the future for a complete refresh I'll swap cams for Katech's K501. I'll pull the stainless exhaust valves and go with a set of Ti exhaust, along with a head "refresh" and a red-line reset (7400 rpm).
I built the car for 100% street, hence the Torquer 110. It's definitely not the "optimal" cam for drag racing.
Personally, I think it's the Torquer 110 that's holding me back. It definitely drops off on the top end. I've got 97K on the short-block (and car). When I pull my motor in the future for a complete refresh I'll swap cams for Katech's K501. I'll pull the stainless exhaust valves and go with a set of Ti exhaust, along with a head "refresh" and a red-line reset (7400 rpm).
I built the car for 100% street, hence the Torquer 110. It's definitely not the "optimal" cam for drag racing.
You'd better check yourself before you wreck yourself pal. You really should have left this alone.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1586504276
Where was all of this "trust" when they came out with the initial "study" back in 2008???
You see, I had said nothing to you. Absolutely nothing. Made no reference to you whatsoever. You opened this up.
Seeing as how we have you going from stock sodium filled valves, to solid SS, to contemplating titanium exhaust valves and now Ferrea hollow stemmed exhaust valves, to whatever is the flavor this month ........Maybe it is YOU who should have "covered tracks" and "buried earlier statements" Undy.
Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; 09-19-2014 at 11:15 PM.
#53
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You win, I'm not getting into this with you. It/you are not worth the effort. I should have known that a joke on my part would spark a relentless multi-post attack on your part.
#54
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I can't imagine why you seem to not like this same "joking" manner when it is applied to you.
But since you don't like it when someone refers to your apparent plans for your personal property as "side shifting", and you obviously have the right to change your mind/position as to what you ought to do with your own personal property/engine in the management of the LS7 valve issue as you see fit and based upon the opinions of those whom you trust, same as anyone else, I'll say nothing more, "jokingly" or not, about the matter and your own decision making about your own car, as that is your business. I apologize if my joking came across in the wrong way to you.
On another note though, I just removed my catch can today and found this.
I feel a lot better knowing that this didn't end up in my intake manifold.
Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; 09-20-2014 at 11:03 AM.
#55
I think your idea of pulling vaccuum out the top is counter productive. The whole idea is to give the oil a chance/time to coalesce on the metal lathe shvings and drop to the bottom of the can. Reversing the flow in my opinion would pull the vapor from the side right up through the top with little time for coalescing. The flow would be working in opposition to gravity instead of in conjunction.
DH
DH
I must have slightly different hose routing that you. I have one hose that is directly underneath the can. I actually wrapped it with some fiber tape to keep the can from rubbing a hole in it. It's not very convenient to unscrew the can. I have to push down on the hose quite a bit. Not a biggie, but if I were ever in hurry, I can see myself cross threading the can.
But yah, I like the EE can. The machine work on it is really top notch. Perfect, no, but that's an elusive rascal that I have not yet ever found.
The one other bitch I have, is the can stole the bolt hole I use for my wide band O2 meter's ground wire.... Dammit.... grrrrrrrr, and I had a really cool and handy wire set up with a soldered spade and everything.. The little annoyances in life are humbling.
#56
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The reason I would like to pull from the top, is to allow the vapor and oil mix to "drop out" when the velocity change occurs running into the larger area of the can. The vacuum would then pull from the top and the metal (or whatever they are) coils would serve as a secondary means to collect oil. Most would probably drop out prior to reaching the coils. This is how big knock out drums in industrial facilities work. Vapor is drawn in the side, pulled out the top. But this does assume that the little can at the top would not allow the vapors to enter anywhere but the bottom. It would have to be sealed. There would also need to be a really good filter of sorts on the vacuum side going to the intake. Maybe incorporate one of these polymer things that dreameagle is talking about.
I must have slightly different hose routing that you. I have one hose that is directly underneath the can. I actually wrapped it with some fiber tape to keep the can from rubbing a hole in it. It's not very convenient to unscrew the can. I have to push down on the hose quite a bit. Not a biggie, but if I were ever in hurry, I can see myself cross threading the can.
But yah, I like the EE can. The machine work on it is really top notch. Perfect, no, but that's an elusive rascal that I have not yet ever found.
The one other bitch I have, is the can stole the bolt hole I use for my wide band O2 meter's ground wire.... Dammit.... grrrrrrrr, and I had a really cool and handy wire set up with a soldered spade and everything.. The little annoyances in life are humbling.
I must have slightly different hose routing that you. I have one hose that is directly underneath the can. I actually wrapped it with some fiber tape to keep the can from rubbing a hole in it. It's not very convenient to unscrew the can. I have to push down on the hose quite a bit. Not a biggie, but if I were ever in hurry, I can see myself cross threading the can.
But yah, I like the EE can. The machine work on it is really top notch. Perfect, no, but that's an elusive rascal that I have not yet ever found.
The one other bitch I have, is the can stole the bolt hole I use for my wide band O2 meter's ground wire.... Dammit.... grrrrrrrr, and I had a really cool and handy wire set up with a soldered spade and everything.. The little annoyances in life are humbling.
I find it much easier to unscrew the two bracket-to-can screws so I can lift the can up to unscrew the bottom.
I was thinking about fabricating a new bracket that raises the can 1/2" to 3/4" to make unscrewing the bottom a little easier.
#58
Team Owner
The reason I would like to pull from the top, is to allow the vapor and oil mix to "drop out" when the velocity change occurs running into the larger area of the can. The vacuum would then pull from the top and the metal (or whatever they are) coils would serve as a secondary means to collect oil. Most would probably drop out prior to reaching the coils. This is how big knock out drums in industrial facilities work. Vapor is drawn in the side, pulled out the top. But this does assume that the little can at the top would not allow the vapors to enter anywhere but the bottom. It would have to be sealed. There would also need to be a really good filter of sorts on the vacuum side going to the intake. Maybe incorporate one of these polymer things that dreameagle is talking about.
I must have slightly different hose routing that you. I have one hose that is directly underneath the can. I actually wrapped it with some fiber tape to keep the can from rubbing a hole in it. It's not very convenient to unscrew the can. I have to push down on the hose quite a bit. Not a biggie, but if I were ever in hurry, I can see myself cross threading the can.
But yah, I like the EE can. The machine work on it is really top notch. Perfect, no, but that's an elusive rascal that I have not yet ever found.
The one other bitch I have, is the can stole the bolt hole I use for my wide band O2 meter's ground wire.... Dammit.... grrrrrrrr, and I had a really cool and handy wire set up with a soldered spade and everything.. The little annoyances in life are humbling.
I must have slightly different hose routing that you. I have one hose that is directly underneath the can. I actually wrapped it with some fiber tape to keep the can from rubbing a hole in it. It's not very convenient to unscrew the can. I have to push down on the hose quite a bit. Not a biggie, but if I were ever in hurry, I can see myself cross threading the can.
But yah, I like the EE can. The machine work on it is really top notch. Perfect, no, but that's an elusive rascal that I have not yet ever found.
The one other bitch I have, is the can stole the bolt hole I use for my wide band O2 meter's ground wire.... Dammit.... grrrrrrrr, and I had a really cool and handy wire set up with a soldered spade and everything.. The little annoyances in life are humbling.
On my 08 and now 06 the hose postion is the same. I don't really have to push on the hose at all but it is certainly in very close proximity. Do you have the one long (approx 1.5 inches) washer that properly postitions the can away from the block?
DH
#59
Team Owner
DH
#60
Team Owner
Its not like we have to empty the can every day
DH