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Old 10-21-2013, 12:19 PM   #1
race105
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Default 06 Z06 blown to pieces Help appreciated!!

Hello all. I would like to introduce myself to the forum. My name is Jordan out of northern NJ and recently purchased 06 Z06 w 30k miles. Needless to say after a couple thousand miles I had a major engine failure and I need to pull the motor. (hole in oil pan) I have a 2 post lift and I am going to pull the motor myself. Does anyone have a tutorial on how to pull the drivetrain from this car or is my best bet to purchase a service manual?? Thanks in advance guys. I have an extensive mechanical background and all the proper tools at my disposal I just want to be prepped going in and learn some tricks of the trade before I tackle the job.
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:31 PM   #2
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Purchase a manual. Sorry for your loss. Engine failures on Z06s are widely documented on this forum. The majority of "do it yourselfers" here are limited to routine maintenance items. Motors changes are traditionally left to the professionals....
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:55 PM   #3
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For engine swaps we drop the whole drivetrain out of the body on C5-C6's with stands we have made.

If you decide you just want to drop the car off and pick it up done contact us for a quote as we are not far from you.

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Old 10-21-2013, 12:56 PM   #4
race105
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Thanks ghoust. I appreciate the input. Once I get the motor out I am going to decide where to head from there. Preliminary inspection of the motor inside the car has me believing my best bet will be to purchase an entire long block. Obviously I will know better when I can actually get a handle on the damage that has been done. Once I have it then time to talk to some professionals. Any suggestions on engine builder local to me in nj??
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:57 PM   #5
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Sorry to hear that, keep us posted on what the cause was.

Hole in the oil pan or block?
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:57 PM   #6
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Thx Josh.. I'll give you a buzz this afternoon to pick your brain!
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:59 PM   #7
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I can only see hole in oil pan. But there has to be another hole somewhere that I cant see w the motor in the car. A piece of what looks like the piston managed to exit through somewhere and it is bigger that the hole in the pan so it must of come from somewhere else!
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:59 PM   #8
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Default Standard practise

Here's a pic of a shop that does this kind of work all the time.

Good Luck with this!

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by race105 View Post
I can only see hole in oil pan. But there has to be another hole somewhere that I cant see w the motor in the car. A piece of what looks like the piston managed to exit through somewhere and it is bigger that the hole in the pan so it must of come from somewhere else!
Hmmm yeah usually when the valves drop they put holes in the block my friends had to large holes I'm both sides.

Has the car ever been tracked? When did it happen? RPM, driving conditions etc?
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:21 PM   #10
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Car has never been tracked, it let go at about 6k RPMs on a dead straight away. Car did have a noticable ticking prior to grenading. It has long tubes on it and i thought it was not anything internal and only an exhaust leak but apparently my assumption may have been wrong. Oil pressure never dropped it never gave even the slightest hint that it was running differently before it happened either. Dry road, cool tempertature 55 degrees car was at normal operating temperature as as well
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:27 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Car has never been tracked, it let go at about 6k RPMs on a dead straight away. Car did have a noticable ticking prior to grenading. It has long tubes on it and i thought it was not anything internal and only an exhaust leak but apparently my assumption may have been wrong. Oil pressure never dropped it never gave even the slightest hint that it was running differently before it happened either. Dry road, cool tempertature 55 degrees car was at normal operating temperature as as well
My car now has a noticeable ticking that's not the injectors that my GM tech friend confirmed. Maybe it's time to trade her.
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:28 PM   #12
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Probably a valve drop.

I've dropped my motor out on a 2 post. Pretty east. Disconnect wiring, fluid lines/etc, exhaust, tunnel plate, upper suspension to body, then 4 bolts from and 4 rear and everything drops out.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:32 PM   #13
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I've heard of replacement engines going bad for failure to flush the entire system (metal debris in dry sump) after a failure like yours. Make sure you replace everything that needs replacing. There's a lot of knowledge on these forums, you've come to the right place.
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:34 PM   #14
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Unreal you have officially made it sound way to easy LOL.. I'll start disassembly this week and keep you guys posted on where to head from here. I'm just happy to have the support from you guys. Any suggestions on built but reliable long blocks in the 600-650hp range?
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:42 PM   #15
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And the beat goes on....an on....and on.

Very sorry for your addition to a very long list of Z06 owners with catastrophic motor failures.

In the past and with other LSx motors I have reconciled my loss with the thought "Well, I can rebuild the motor with some really good parts......" Unfortunately the Z06 already has some really good, and expensive, parts in it. But you do get the opportunity to get a better valve train and some forged internals in it now.

I am afraid the standard forum advice to new owners now is, either buy an unmodified Z06 with an extended warranty or immediately take the motor to have the heads replaced.

One of the forum Chevrolet dealers has the Helm Manuals available at about $196 most of the time.
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:49 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by race105 View Post
I can only see hole in oil pan. But there has to be another hole somewhere that I cant see w the motor in the car. A piece of what looks like the piston managed to exit through somewhere and it is bigger that the hole in the pan so it must of come from somewhere else!
Sorry to hear of the mishap race105.

Good luck getting it back on the road.
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:51 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by race105 View Post
Car has never been tracked, it let go at about 6k RPMs on a dead straight away. Car did have a noticable ticking prior to grenading. It has long tubes on it and i thought it was not anything internal and only an exhaust leak but apparently my assumption may have been wrong. Oil pressure never dropped it never gave even the slightest hint that it was running differently before it happened either. Dry road, cool tempertature 55 degrees car was at normal operating temperature as as well
Yeah the ticking you heard was probably the exhaust valves. You can hear them get louder when they are out of spec.

Sorry to hear hope you get it rebuilt.

Keep us posted.
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:47 PM   #18
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These engines always tick and it becomes louder with headers and even louder with a cam.

Even when I got my heads redone (WCCH Stage 2), it was ticking right away, similarly to how it was prior to the rework. Another local with new PRC heads did the same thing.

I wouldn't recommend thinking that ticking = pending doom.
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:55 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by race105 View Post
Unreal you have officially made it sound way to easy LOL.. I'll start disassembly this week and keep you guys posted on where to head from here. I'm just happy to have the support from you guys. Any suggestions on built but reliable long blocks in the 600-650hp range?
If you just bought it, how do you know it was never raced or abused? Just curious as to how you know the history of vehicle.
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Old 10-21-2013, 03:14 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkincy View Post
[...] I am afraid the standard forum advice to new owners now is, either buy an unmodified Z06 with an extended warranty or immediately take the motor to have the heads replaced. [...]
That would be the advice.

The sensible advice would be to save your money and have the guides checked via the wiggle test.
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